Hyundai Forums banner

61 - 75 of 75 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Sorry for the long wait but here it is, my fog light indicator DIY

Tools needed

1 - standard screw driver
1 - long #2 screw driver
1 - wire cutter/stripper
wire
special wire connector (see pic below)
electrical tape

1-Start by lowering the steering wheel as low as it goes.

2-Push up on the top of the instrument cluster cover and insert a standard screw driver between the cover and the dash below the "trip" button.


3-Gently pry with the screw driver and pull on the cover straight toward yourself.

4-Once the cover is loose use the standard screw driver to pop the plug off of the "trip" button.


5-Now that the button is disconnected gently pull the cover upward till the top steering wheel cover pops loose as they are attached to each other.

5-Remove the four philips screws holding the instrument cluster in place.



6-Carefully twist the instrument cluster up and around so that you can get at the plugs on the back right.


7-Using a female wire connector pictured below, insert the connector and attached wire into the third hole from the left on the bottom (the black wire in pic)



8-Connect the other end of the wire to your fog light switch using the splice of your choice so that it is hot when the fog lights are turned on.

9-Test it, and put everything back and your done.

Some proof
Fogs on


Fogs & headlights on


High beams on, fog switch still on


There you have it! Enjoy!:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Your the best. I'm going to do this right now!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Too bad i cant do this mod on my Sonata since it doesnt have the fog indicator in the instrument cluster wiring diagram. Unlike yours, it clearly says pin #14. Great job though !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi, i have a problem, im from venezuela, and already buy and install my kit? But the multifunction switch dont have the cables that appear in this guide, i install and take the power from other point, but i want that my foglights can turn on and of by the switch i just have 9 cables in the wiring of the car i want to know if a need make a bridge or some modification to make that, and also stay without turn lights, but the hazzard buttom turn on both sides o my turn lights, i appreciate yor help, thanks a lot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi, i have a problem, im from venezuela, and already buy and install my kit? But the multifunction switch dont have the two wires black/red wire that appear in this guide, i want o know frome where comings this wires inside of the multiswitch, from make it, i install and take the power from other point, but i want that my foglights can turn on and off by the switch, i just have 9 wires in the plug of the car i want to know if a need make a bridge or some modification to make that, and also stay without turn lights, but the hazzard buttom turn on both sides o my turn lights, i appreciate yor help, thanks a lot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
Sounds like you have a standard OEM multifunction switch, the switch from the kit I installed was modified to work with the kit. You can make it work you will have to add the correct connecters to the the plug that attaches to the multifunction switch. I don't know which pins off the top of my head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Somebody can helpme with that problem, i need to know from where come this two wires for make tehe modification, and can use the foglihhts qith my multifunction switch, thanks a lot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
I installed the kit from SR last week and have not been able to get the lights lit. I emailed SR and I got one response asking for more details. I responded back and never heard a thing from them since. Anyone else have an issue with bad to no support after the sale with SR? Fuses are all good, I followed the great detailed instruction on this thread, but no light at all. Any advice out there? I tried to turn them on with the light switch in all positions. I have the 12v RED wire connected to the Alternator side of the under hood fuse junction box. Is it okay there or does it have to go directly to the (+) side of the battery itself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Why do we need to turn the clock spring on 1 side until it lock, and turn it 2 turns on the other side?

I just order the kit from SharkRacing and i read all this tuto, but, i`m confuse with this point!

Can someone help me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Why do we need to turn the clock spring on 1 side until it lock, and turn it 2 turns on the other side?

I just order the kit from SharkRacing and i read all this tuto, but, i`m confuse with this point!

Can someone help me?
You need to do this to make sure that the clock spring is centered, so you can turn it 2 times to either side. If you install it so it's one turn to the stop clockwise and 3 turns to the stop counter-clockwise, you'll probably end up breaking it when you turn the wheel more than one revolution to the right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Reviving this post because my leather steering wheel with cruise control buttons is en route to papa. I know I will need those wire connectors for the cruise control. Do you have a link for those? I think this is a really good write up. I'll let you guys know if I succeed soon!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Does anyone recommend the kit from Cyon7?;
http://cyon7.com/accent2014_mf.html
I see alot order from Sharkracing but the wire harness from them looks poorly made but on Cyon7 looks more professional.

Also does anyone know if if the blanks by the eco button come out and if a factory type switch would fit in there instead of taking apart steering wheel. I am afraid some what of breaking the clock spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Just wanted to add my 2 cents on this thread. I finally got this job done with the Shark Racing kit. First, thanks to Northey87, wherever you are. I never would have attempted this without your writeup. But here are a couple of snags and tips I would have wanted to know about going in to this, as a total greenhorn. Maybe there's still a few out there greener than me, who're wanting to add fog lights to their Accident, but are afraid to...

I'm going to describe my last step first. I had everything installed (correctly as it turned out) and it wouldn't work and I was doubting everything. Rip-off kit? Continuity breaks in my lame wiring job? Bad relay? I didn't understand, b/c there are no instructions in the kit and I just didn't know anything about "add-a-circuit" fuse adapters but you must take the 10A fuse that's found in the IG1 fuse position of the interior junction box and ADD that to the fuse adapter jumper thingy that you get in the kit. That was the final piece that fell into place and made it work. If you just plug the fuse adapter (w its 15A fuse) into IG1 position without putting the stock 10A fuse into the empty socket (1st position) of the adapter, not only do your fully installed fog lights fail to work, but other stuff like the Tire Pressure Monitoring circuitry and the interior light dimmer switch and the stability control switch will also not have any power. The TPMS warning light on the dash will flash at you. That would have been nice to know about up front. You might tear the whole thing out and count it money wasted. But all that's missing is that second fuse.

Second thing I'd like to say about installing this kit is that pushing the plug for the fog light switch and the ring terminal for its ground through the grommet is both hard and risky! It isn't just the hardest part of the install as Northey said, it could be a f*ing death sentence for your car if you're not careful. To start with the pictures Northey posted in his write up may be a tiny bit misleading. Maybe I just misunderstood. The yellow arrow he placed pointing at the grommet to go through would seem to indicate the upper grommet which gives access to the wiper motor wiring. But there is no access to the passenger compartment through that hole. I pulled that one out and fed a borescope camera in there - it's no go. Below that and further back against the bulkhead is the main wiring harness and grommet into the cabin, which is what he must have meant to indicate. However, you should be advised that pushing anything through that rubber sphincter is next to impossible. Worse than that, you could damage critically important wiring bundled in that passageway while trying to push your fog light plug ends through it using whatever screwdriver or other tool you have on hand. If you damage that wiring bundle you may as well just call the tow truck to haul your car off to the salvage yard because replacing the wires in question could be more expensive than what your Accent would be worth on the used market if it were not damaged at all. I wrestled with that part of the installation for some time and as I got more and more deeply involved in it and greater and greater force was deployed it dawned on me that pushing the plugs through that way was really dangerous. I cut the plug ends off with the plan to reattach them on the other side of the bulkhead by splicing. The wires would be much easier to push through by themselves without the plugs on them I thought. So I cut off the red plug and black ring terminal, added some 18GA wires by splicing and tried pushing that through - but it was still difficult enough to be scary. I ended up poking an entirely new hole through the grommet, separate and offset from the existing hole so as not do further violence to the wire bundle. On the whole I really wish I had hit on that plan-cutting the ends off, splicing in, and making a new hole- from the beginning and had never tried to jam anything through the grommet in contact with the main wire bundle. It might never bite me, but then again it might happen that next year or next week that one of those wires in there shorts out and then I'll be really sorry I just HAD to add fog lights to my car. Anyway it's done now. Fingers crossed.

Other notes: like I said I added wire to the supplied harness. This is on the signal side of the relay, not the "load" side, so not to worry about the wires getting hot. That said, the added wire and the butt splices I used probably should be sheathed better in some additional heavy looming for protection from water and heat. And maybe I should replace the butt splices with soldered joints too when I revisit that at some point. The signal side of the relay is 18 gauge wire so that is what I spliced with, and the butt splices need to be matched to 18GA as well. Maybe because I spliced in extra wire I had enough slack in the load side of the harness to get the terminals for it to the positive and negative lugs on the battery.

This video was really helpful to me in removing the airbag, clockspring, steering wheel, turn signal (multi function switch).
Hyundai accent steering wheel air back / clock spring/ head lamp switch replacement
It's a confidence builder to see someone do what you're afraid to do, but he does it one handed, while holding a camera with his other hand, without even bothering to disconnect the battery. I definitely disconnected the battery! If you watch this video, though, you can see that it is not necessary to lock the steering wheel to one side to deal with it and the clockspring. Just put the wheels on ground for this phase of the install, center the steering wheel so wheels are pointed dead straight ahead, don't move the steering wheel after that. When you deal with the clockspring and it's wiring, don't twist it at all when removing and set it aside carefully. On my steering wheel there was a slight ridge in the aluminum casting that was straight up and down at 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock when the steering and wheels were centered. I just put the steering wheel back with that ridge as a reference when reassembling it without needing to make any marks. It's perfectly centered. If you grip the wheel firmly you should be able to break the nut loose with a breaker bar and put it back on with a torque wrench without needing to have the wheel locked to either side. Not saying it's easy but it's possible. It is a bit more difficult to get loose than torque specs in the manual would lead you to think because it's put on with threadlocker at the factory.

Last thing: the first step is removing the airbag. (Yes, of course: Disconnect the battery.) You need looong T30 torx bit to get in there. My torx bits wouldn't reach, but I had a set of Allen key style torx wrenches from Home Depot that had the depth to get to the bolts. Thing is you can spin those bolts forever and they won't free the airbag, long after you think, well they must be spun out of their holes by now... You have to also kind of wiggle the airbag up and down to get it loose, possibly while continuing to spin the bolts out. I don't know why.
 
61 - 75 of 75 Posts
Top