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This is a "How I did this" thread about the installation of the OEM/Aftermarket Fog Light Kit sold by sharkracing.com. Also in this thread I will show you how to replace either one or both of the multifunction switches located on the steering column.

First off, I am not a mechanic, nor do I work for Hyundai. This is not an official "How To" and should be as such. If you plan on using this as a guide you are doing so at your own risk. Also read the entire post and make sure you feel confident BEFORE you start. If you feel that you cannot complete the task on your own please take your vehicle to a dealer/local mechanic to have this done.

I will be doing this write up in 4 phases, please DO NOT comment until I have finished all 4 phases so this thread will flow naturally for those using it as a guide. Thanks

Tools required:
1 - standard length #2 philips
1 - "stubby" #2 philips
1 - standard "flat" screw driver
1 - T30 torx driver
1 - 10mm wrench and/or socket
1 - 21mm socket
1 - 1/2" socket extender
1 - 1/2" Torque wrench
electrical tape
zip ties
nippers/wire cutters
needle nose (optional)
channel locks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Phase 1 = Fog light housing installation

Step 1:
Raise the front of the vehicle off the ground so that you can crawl underneath the front bumper. If you have a lift, USE IT! if you have ramps, USE THEM! Do not do what I did (see pic). I had no other options available to me, we have ramps but they are too steep to use on the 2012 Accent.


Step 2:
Remove the body 4 clips holding the wheel well covers to the bumper and the inner wheel well. There should be two attaching the well cover to the bumper.


And two in the inner wheel well forward of the tire. Once you remove all 8 (4 on each side) the well cover should pop loose and look like this.


Once you have the well covers loose you will need to remove the body clip on the driver's side that holds the bumper to the frame under the front of the vehicle.


Now you will need to remove the screw holding the bumper to the fender on the driver's side use a #2 philips.


The reason you need to remove the more fasteners on the driver's side is because there is more stuff behind the bumper on the driver's side and removing the body clip and the fender screw allows you move the bumper a bit more giving you the room to install the new housing.

Step 3:
Using the stubby #2 Phillips remove the four screws hold each black plastic insert, or broken housing if you are just replacing a broken fog light. Keep the screws safe, you will be reusing them when you install the new lights.


Step 4:
Install the new fog light housings, there are little finger tabs on each of the screws to help you align the housing right on the bumper. The passenger side is a lot easier to install than the driver's side. The driver's side you will need to start by inserting the housing from under the bumper with the big end first. Then when that is in there rotate the housing so the skinny end slides up in. you may have to pull out the bumper a little to get the housing up behind the bumper.

Once you get the light lined up reinstall the 4 screws that you removed earlier. do this for both sides. They should look like this when done.


Step 5:
Reinstall the front bumper body clip and the fender screw, but leave the well covers loose so you can run wires later.

Phase 1 complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Phase 2 = Disassembling the steering column/driver's compartment and multifunction switch replacement.

Note 1: I left the car on the blocks throughout the entire installation, which made the install easier for me, but I am 6'-2".

Note 2: If you are just doing a multifunction switch replacement just follow steps 1-12

Step 1:
Disconnect the negative side of the battery using a 10mm wrench. You may want you record all your radio presets as they will be lost when you disconnect the battery. Wait at least 30 seconds for the capacitors in the air bag to discharge.

Step 2:
Climb inside the driver's side and make sure that your steering wheel is pointing straight ahead. This would be the position the wheel would be in driving a straight line going down the road.

Step 3:
Using the T30 Torx driver, loosen the two bolts (one on both sides of the steering wheel). To make it easier grab the top of the air bag and pull it towards you gently until both bolts are unscrewed form the airbag.


Step 4:
Now that the airbag is loose, you need to remove the wire connectors attached to the airbag. Do this by popping the orange tabs on the back of the connectors, and then pulling the connectors off the airbag. also remove the white wiring block.


Step 5:
Now that you have the airbag removed, its time to remove the steering wheel nut using a 21mm socket.


Step 6:
Before you remove the steering wheel, put marks on the steering wheel and the steering rod so that the steering wheel can be installed properly. Once marked, the steering wheel should just pull right off



Step 7:
Remove the three screws (#2 Philips) holding the column cover in place.


Step 8:
Separate and remove the lower cover from the column by placing both hands (one on each side of the cover, the red area) and pushing with your thumbs (yellow spots). the cover should separate and then you will be able to remove the lower section. This my take a little manipulation but it will come out.



Step 9:
Carefully unclip the airbag spring clock from the steering column. it is not necessary to remove the wiring connectors. There will be three little retaining clips holding it on.


Step 10:
Remove the wire connectors (yellow) from the multifunction switches and the two screws (red) hold them in place.


Step 11:
If you are replacing either of the multifunction switches (as we are doing to fog light install) then you will need to separate the two halves. Simply press the locking tab with a screw driver the and the two should just come apart.


Step 12:
Once you have them apart, slide the two you will be installing back together (that would be the new light control switch and the old wiper switch). and then reinstall the multifunction switches back on to the steering column, installing the holding screws (yellow) and the wiring connectors (red).


If you are simply replacing a multifunction switch then you can move to phase 4, reassembling the steering column.

Step 13:
remove the end panel on the driver's side using a flat screw driver to pry it loose.



Step 14:
Remove the four screws (yellow, #2 Philips) and the two bolt (red, 10mm wrench), and then start to remove the panel.



Step 15:
You will need to disconnect the wire connectors and hood release (held together with two Philips headed bolts under the pull lever).



Step 16:
Now that you have everything disconnected you can remove the panel, but do so carefully because it does sit behind the kick panel at the door.


Phase 2 complete
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Phase 3 = The wiring harness.

Note: if your vehicle did not come with fog lights then the factory wiring is not there, you will need a wiring harness. The wiring harness provided by shark racing is ok, it could have been better. I should also mention that the kit DOES NOT come with directions, but other that the wiring harness is pretty straight forward.

Step 1:
Start by laying out the harness so it's not all bunched together.

Step 2:
Since the legs of the harness are only so long (and really shorter than they should be) you will need to locate the relay/head of the harness somewhere safe but can still reach everything. The best place (and probably the only place it will work) is by putting the relay right in front of the air filter.


Step 3:
The short leg with bulb connector can fed down to the driver's side fog lamp. While the long leg with bulb connector will need to be fed across the top of the radiator and then fed down to the passenger fog lamp, zip tie as you go, avoiding hot areas like hoses and stuff. There is really no room for error because the harness barely reaches from blub to bulb. Connect the harness to the bulbs.

Step 4:
You need to route the long two wire leg (one wire is blue with special connector attached to the end, and the other is black with an eye loop and a tag the says "body ground" all encased in a black plastic sleeve) into the cab to connect to your new light switch. I routed mine around the battery.


Step 5:
This is probably the hardest part of the whole installation. You will need to figure out how to get the that long leg into the cab. You can either drill and new hole and install a grommet to run the wires or use and existing grommet. I used and existing grommet located here:


The wires are taped to the grommet both inside the cab and in the engine compartment. If you choose this you will need to undo the tape both inside and out and then you will be able to feed the new wires through it by using something like this to push them through (thats both wire ends sandwhiched around the end of a flat screw driver and taped together).


Step 6:
Now that the wires are inside the cab, the blue wire from the wiring harness connects to the black wire coming from the new switch, and the black wire from the wiring harness needs to be fastened to a ground point. I sandwiched the ground wire to one of the bracket bolts under the steering column (yellow). There is a grounding bolt up under the dash on the far right (red arrow) but I to lazy too mess with it.


Step 7:
While you are in the cab you may notice that there is a red wire coming out of the new switch with a soldered on fuse on the end. This allows you to plug the switch into the fuse block allowing the fog lights to be on while the key is on regardless whether the lights are on or not and regardless whether the hi or low beams are on. Using this option would be illegal here in PA. To remedy this I cut the red wire short and connected it to the low beam power line (the bigger pink line coming out of the white wire connector). This allows the fog light only to be on when the low beams are on, switch to hi beams and the fogs will turn off.


Step 8:
Zip tie and bundle any loose wires to safe locations under the dash. Also, re-tape the grommet both inside and out if you took the wires through the factory grommet.

Step 9:
Back to the main harness in the engine compartment, connect the red power wire to the positive side of the battery. Due length constraints, I just connected this line to one of the 12v posts in the fuse block.


Step 10:
Run the black ground line to the negative side of the battery. Again, due to length constraints I just connected this line to one of the fuse block mounting blots.


Phase 3 complete
 

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Like a boss :eek:, amazin.:D

Just a doubt, is necessary remove the steering wheel, to remove this plastic conver ?


Is not easier turn the steering wheel, that way get access screw that might be :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Phase 4 = Reassembly

Note: If you are just replacing one or both multifunction switches follow step 4 thru 10

Step 1:
Start by reassembling the lower panel below the steering column. First reattach the hood release lever using the two Philips bolts you removed earlier. Next reattach the wire connectors to the ESC button, panel dimmer control, and eco button (if equipped).



Step 2:
Start by sliding the lower left edge in behind the lower kick panel. once in behind the kick panel lift the top and pop the panel back into place. Once that is accomplished reinstall the four screws and two bolts you removed earlier.




Step 3:
Reinstall the dash end panel. First slide the end panel back to the weather stripping and then push in till it pops into place.


Step 4:
Now snap the airbag spring clock back on to the steering column.


Step 5:
Next insert the lower column cover and snap the upper and lower sections together. Then reinstall the three holding screws.


Step 6:
Now this step is critical, rotate the airbag spring clock clockwise until it stops (yellow). Then rotate it counter-clockwise 2 turns (red) until it the square part points straight up (third pic).




Step 7:
Reinstall the steering wheel, making sure you line up the airbag spring clock and the steering wheel marks line up with the mark on the steering rod you made earlier. The steering wheel and the steering rod are splined so there is going to be positive engagement, and you will know when they are lined up.

Step 8:
Install the steering wheel nut, be sure to tighten to 28-36 ft-lb's. I turned the steering wheel so that it locked, which helped me to tighten the steering wheel nut (yellow). Also reconnect the little white wire block (red).


Step 9:
Reconnect the airbag attaching the wire leads to their appropriate plugs and snap the orange clips in place.


Step 10:
Set the airbag back into the it's place on the steering wheel and tight the two bolts on the sides of the steering wheel using the T30 Torx driver.


Step 11:
Reinstall, and reinsert the body clips that hold the wheel well cover in place. 4 clips per well cover.

Step 12:
Reconnect the negative battery cable and admire your handiwork.

Phase 4 Complete

Here is what the fog should look like when you are all completed: http://youtu.be/MT_L-0D1XH8

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Like a boss :eek:, amazin.:D

Just a doubt, is necessary remove the steering wheel, to remove this plastic conver ? Is not easier turn the steering wheel, that way get access screw that might be :confused:
No, if you are going to replace the any of the multifunction switches you have to remove the steering wheel and the airbag clock spring to even get to the mounting screws. Plus the "light" multifunction switch actually wraps around the steering shaft.

Now if you are just playing with the wiring than yes, it may be possible to remove the cover with out taking the steering wheel off. Although It only took me about 15min to get the steering wheel and the airbag spring clock off the steering column.


MODERATORS, Can someone please add the following to the required tools list:
1 - 21mm socket
1 - 1/2" socket extender
1 - 1/2" Torque wrench
 

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Great diy! +1
 

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Thanks for that! I know it took a bunch of extra time to photograph the steps and do the write up.


Step 7:
While you are in the cab you may notice that there is a red wire coming out of the new switch with a soldered on fuse on the end. This allows you to plug the switch into the fuse block allowing the fog lights to be on while the key is on regardless whether the lights are on or not and regardless whether the hi or low beams are on. Using this option would be illegal here in PA. To remedy this I cut the red wire short and connected it to the low beam power line (the bigger pink line coming out of the white wire connector). This allows the fog light only to be on when the low beams are on, switch to hi beams and the fogs will turn off.
I live in PA too, and I have NEVER understood the logic of this law.

For example, sometimes when driving in a heavy snow storm at night, fog lamps without high or lows would be useful. Or, on unlit back roads, fog lamps make great cornering lights when used with the high beams.

This law does nothing about the brain dead morons who drive around with the fog lights on ALL the time, blinding oncoming traffic.
 

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Good to see it all worked out for you man, and that getting the switch changed out wasn't too big of a deal. I'll likely be using this in the next month or so myself to wire up mine.

How long do you figure it took you in total?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good to see it all worked out for you man, and that getting the switch changed out wasn't too big of a deal. I'll likely be using this in the next month or so myself to wire up mine.

How long do you figure it took you in total?
It took me about 8hrs, but that was with no directions what so ever and taking pictures along the way. For someone who knows their way around cars and tools with this guide, it should take around 3hrs, maybe a little longer if you remove the battery and what I am assuming is the ECU behind the battery to get to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, so I learned something today. If you run your power lead off the big pink wire like I did in step 7 of phase 3, the fog will turn off when you switch on your hi beams, but if the fog switch is "on", light switch is "off", and the key "on" the fog lights will turn on with out the lights being on. This is reguardless whether the your in hi or low beam mode. Rather strange in my opinion, but that is the case.

It really doesn't bother me because I don't leave my fog lights on all the time like most people, I only turn them on when I need them.

Next time I have the steering column apart I will see if I can correct this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thats the whole point of tying the fogs into the low beams, so that the fogs are only on when the low beams are on. Having your fog lights on while the high beams are on is illegal here in pa. The original wiring harness, unmodified, as part of the kit will allow the fogs to be on as long as the key is on.
 

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Helluva job, especially the pix. It did little more for me, however, than convince me I'm not man enough, I simply don't pack the gear or patience for a job like that. Thanks for the presentation though.:D
 

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It got me in gear to get the same kit honestly, lol. I know I can do the steps involded and from what he's shown I now know the kit to be pretty well composed and 'all encompassing', or complete if you will. Mine should show up sometime friday if I'm lucky and then they'll be in within the week. I'm stoked to finally be making progress on the mods that I had intended^_^
 

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Getting that clip on the end of the blue wire thru the grommet was really a pain.... Also not thrilled that I was unable to wire the relay into the stock relay housing. I was tempted to get a OEM relay from Hyundai to wire it all in, but the largest they had for the accent was a 35amp. Apparently the stock fogs are run though a fusible link as opposed to a relay. Its a shame, because I was gearing up to make a big project of it and basically rewire the legs that run to the fogs themselves, but lost all interest when I determined that it wasn't easily feasible to run it all to the stock relay housing.:( They're in now though and its totally worth it :p
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Glad you were able to do it. I think it took me longer to get the tape off the gromit than to get the wires through it.
 
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