LOL! Yes I do understand the "implications". :grin2:Surely you understand the implications of a user adjustable odometer? :surprise:
No doubt it is possible, but no one who knows how shouldn't or wouldn't tell you.
Is it possible you meant speedometer? That would make more sense for tire or gear change.
To what end? What do you hope to achieve by "improving" the accuracy of the odometer? How did you determine it wasn't already accurate?Besides changing tire size to make the Odometer accurate, is there any other way? Can a gear be changed or can it be adjusted with GDS?
Sorry if I didn't make myself clear. What I was trying to get across is that the calibration is constantly changing as the tires wear. I wasn't suggesting to drive on bald tires. But 2/32 is the legal limit on tread wear in most states.So let's recap. So far, we have recommendations to replace the tires with a possibly incorrect size, run the tires under-inflated, or drive on bald tires. Maybe it's just me, but none of these options sound like a particularly good idea.
LOL! Too Funny! Unfortunately, my car has a salvage title so I doubt Hyundai is going to honor any warranties. My employer does pay for my considerable "on the job" mileage and I have a personal side business that I do report mileage to the IRS for. And while I can just multiply by 1.026, I try to use photos of the odo with "dated material" for proof.Odometer runs off the vehicle speed sensor (AKA Output Shaft Sensor) and is not adjustable. As you noted, smaller tires will correct the error. On my car, it was 3.5% under and I actually knocked it further off of reality by fitting larger tires. Now it's off by over 5%. I leave it that way and enjoy the "10 year 105450 mile warranty" afforded by the inaccurate odometer.
Welcome to the "I checked the odometer and it's way under" club. There are a lot of pearl-clutching drama students in this world who "hand calculate" their fuel economy and then clutch the pearls and collapse when the dash mpg number is higher then the number scribbled on the gas station receipt. When you correct the odometer, the dash mpg isn't all that far off. But that doesn't stop the hysteria. I relish the drama - it's like a soap opera without commercials.
The only time an underclocked odometer shoots you in the foot is when you get paid by the mile (IRS filing, employer recording, etc) and you end up getting shorted around 3%. If it's for figuring mpg, just take your odometer reading and multiply it by 1.026 and use the result to divide out the fuel added.
Make more $$$ and have a larger tax write off for my personal business.To what end? What do you hope to achieve by "improving" the accuracy of the odometer? How did you determine it wasn't already accurate?
Higher will usually trigger the tantrum. The hysteria ensues when the dash MPG reads "27.8" and the very nervous very trepidatious mathematician divides odometer miles by gallons and gets a number like "26.9". After a few minutes in an oxygen tent and a hit of thorazine, they're ready to post online about this being an obvious conspiracy, with Hyundai employing entire teams of engineers to write software code that counts mpg too high. The same team is tasked with changing the "distance to empty" so that it reads "500" when you buy the car and then "200" when you put gas in it and then "---" when you get down under a quarter tank.Also, did you mean "lower" above ? (see bolded & underlined)
You can also use google maps and see the same result. The under-reporting is very consistent.Multiple >100 mile highway runs tested against the mile markers and then averaged together. BTW, there was very little variation, always 97.4.
The indicated mpg goes up a little bit, but using a tire with a smaller radius will lead to an artificially high mpg number. If the smaller tire rolls 880 times per mile and the larger "correct" tire rolls 870 times per mile, the car is counting 870 rotations as "1 mile" when it needs to really count 880. Not to worry - the actual difference is little more than a rounding error.I didn't mean for this to get out of hand. I am going to run a smaller, narrower tire (specifically a 175/65r15), properly inflated, and enjoy the increased paycheck, the better ride, the cheaper tires, the accurate odo, and the increased mpg - both indicated and actual.
My only goal is to make my odo accurate (not my speedo or my "indicated" mpg) so I don't have to figure what 2.6% of XXX miles is or multiply by 1.026. In my case, for my odo to be accurate, I need a tire that does 841~842 RPM. The 175/65r15 does that (yes I know RPM changes with tread depth but that is true for both tires - so that's a wash). In my case, the smaller tire is the "correct" tire. The stock tire (the 215/45r17 does ~820 RPM). Whether or not the smaller tire creates an artificially high mpg number on the onboard computer - I don't care, I don't use it - hence the desire to make my odo accurate.The indicated mpg goes up a little bit, but using a tire with a smaller radius will lead to an artificially high mpg number. If the smaller tire rolls 880 times per mile and the larger "correct" tire rolls 870 times per mile, the car is counting 870 rotations as "1 mile" when it needs to really count 880. Not to worry - the actual difference is little more than a rounding error.
If looking at a smaller tire, remember to confirm the load rating is adequate for the Elantra.