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Yes but it is an absolute value. It will not be in psi though and will need to be converted. It also will have sea level pressure added to it.

Torque does a good job of converting to vacuum and psi on the same gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. After the broken spark plug on cylinder 2 i'm trying to find some cheap ways to get some readings. I got a blue tooth OBD2 adapter on the way. It'll be cool to see what this app, dash command, says for the HP and stuff.
 

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HP is always a calculated value based on parameters you set up. I don't bother. Absolute Load percentage is very good at showing power output and any changes you make. It too though requires proper setup of Volumetric Efficiency.
 

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HP is always a calculated value based on parameters you set up. I don't bother. Absolute Load percentage is very good at showing power output and any changes you make. It too though requires proper setup of Volumetric Efficiency.
Well the blue tooth was only 12.95 from Amazon. So no big loss if it turns out to be a waste. There is a local Cert BMW shop here with dyno and all the toys a mechanic would ever want. They Said they'd charge me 89.99 to do a full diagnostic, compression test, ect and if there is anything wrong from the intake to the exhaust. they'd find it.
 

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Well the blue tooth was only 12.95 from Amazon. So no big loss if it turns out to be a waste. There is a local Cert BMW shop here with dyno and all the toys a mechanic would ever want. They Said they'd charge me 89.99 to do a full diagnostic, compression test, ect and if there is anything wrong from the intake to the exhaust. they'd find it.
89.00 is a decent price - but did you post about idling the car routinely for extended periods ? Yours is a turbo ? If so therein lies the probable cause for your issue, wastegate closed at idle, posts on here relating plug no 2 failure owing to turbo proximity, non water cooled turbo to me all point to excessive heat buildup in cylinder no 2 .
I'd advise against idling the auto for extended periods.
 

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89.00 is a decent price - but did you post about idling the car routinely for extended periods ? Yours is a turbo ? If so therein lies the probable cause for your issue, wastegate closed at idle, posts on here relating plug no 2 failure owing to turbo proximity, non water cooled turbo to me all point to excessive heat buildup in cylinder no 2 .
I'd advise against idling the auto for extended periods.
Yeah, the most i'd idle for is like 50 minutes. I'm down to no more than 30 minutes tho.
 

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Got to try it out breifly today. Best boost reading was 16.9psi.
How did you get the readout? Which gauge did you use, do you have the Hyundai additional plugin?

I got mine setup and using the Turbo boost pid from the Hyundai plugin and it reads 11.7-27psi chich i Know is wrong, but I can't get it to read a 0 when engine isn't running.
 

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With the EX Advantage Hyundai plug-in you can go to settings and change how it reads. All psi or vacuum in Hg"



0"Hg vacuum =~14.26 psi. So when you see 27 psi you need to subtract ~14 to get true reading.
 

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With the EX Advantage Hyundai plug-in you can go to settings and change how it reads. All psi or vacuum in Hg"



0"Hg vacuum =~14.26 psi. So when you see 27 psi you need to subtract ~14 to get true reading.
Thanks. I realized i was using the Hyundai plugin turbo Boost gauge which seems to not account for barometric pressure...odd. Put in the Vacuum/Boost gauge and had to adjust -.03 to get to 0 with engine off.
 

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Thanks. I realized i was using the Hyundai plugin turbo Boost gauge which seems to not account for barometric pressure...odd. Put in the Vacuum/Boost gauge and had to adjust -.03 to get to 0 with engine off.
Also remember that torque can only see 23ish psi, you'll never see anything beyond that. Also it's not fast enough to catch boost spikes when the car shifts when wot.
 

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Thanks. I realized i was using the Hyundai plugin turbo Boost gauge which seems to not account for barometric pressure...odd. Put in the Vacuum/Boost gauge and had to adjust -.03 to get to 0 with engine off.
How did you adjust the reading?
 

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I used the adjustment in the Vehicle profile. It says to adjust for some Mitsubishi, but I put in -.03 instead of 0 or -14.7 and it worked just fine. Now it reads what I consider to be realistic boost for a stock 2.0T in Phoenix, AZ. So, normal driving its only getting up to 12psi.
 

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I used the adjustment in the Vehicle profile. It says to adjust for some Mitsubishi, but I put in -.03 instead of 0 or -14.7 and it worked just fine. Now it reads what I consider to be realistic boost for a stock 2.0T in Phoenix, AZ. So, normal driving its only getting up to 12psi.
My Torque shows "Hg for vacuum with no boost and psi when in boost. It reads .6 "Hg vacuum with the engine off. But changing the PSI offset did nothing for this.
 

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My Torque shows "Hg for vacuum with no boost and psi when in boost. It reads .6 "Hg vacuum with the engine off. But changing the PSI offset did nothing for this.
Hrm. Not sure why it didn't adjust for you. the conversion is .29 psi adjustment to get the .6 vacuum to go to 0 with engine off. Try adjusting, save. exit and force close Torque app and then restart it. Maybe that will help?
 
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