Hyundai Forums banner

41 - 56 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
  1. On a wild chase would a stretched timing belt cause a no start in below 20 weather. I talked to a neighbor and was informed he had work done their and he red flagged the place. Coil wiring harness or low fuel pump pressure which I learned u need a special adapter to check that u cant get hold to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,030 Posts
From my experience most faulty parts that are returned were buggered up by the person that tried to fit it unless it's cheap Chinese junk made by kids in sweatshops before and after school.
In this video, Nipparts, a company based in the Netherlands and number one supplier of Asian parts in Europe, makes the parts used to repair the fault. Watch and see for yourself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2kyhuuPv8I
Not all parts are made equal.
And not all Chinese made parts are junk.
Sometimes the junk is made elsewhere in the world
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
Gets back to quality parts. That's why I always try to fit OE electrical parts. Don't get me wrong with my comments about Chines junk. They make so much and some is OE quality but others are just junk and it's up to the supplier to sift out the junk. I have fitted fuel filters from India and on one the fitting blew out one end and on inspection it was just held in with araldite. Another was wheel cylinders with SAE brand that leaked within a week. Tried to contact the supplier only to find out they were a quick boot sale to the parts store. How misleading is that. Saying that in all the work I have done I have had little in the way of off the shelf faulty products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,030 Posts
I still remember when people would talk about the junk the Japanese made.
Now, they want Japanese quality parts made in Japan.
Everybody blames everything on Chinese made parts.
Junk can come from anywhere. Especially where there is more greed than scruples.

And, some people just want to get their money back
whether they were at fault for f***ing up a part or not.
I try to give the benefit of the doubt that they are being honest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Okay now parts. I took this battery in and it checked okay. I know the cold has an effect on batteries. I been hooking this charger maintainer on this battery. So far so good on starting. -1 outside this morning and car started up. I think im get one of those battery insulation for the battery. I'm getting the blues trying to figure things out here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,584 Posts
Using a volt meter check the battery voltage before starting with the key on/lights and heater fan off. Should be low 12V ~12.2-12.3V. Start car and check voltage with engine running. Lights on and heater blowing full you should have upper 13v at idle, preferably 14V.

This is what a good battery and alternator will show.

I have found the MC Accent to be very sensitive to the tightness of the alternator/water pump drive belt. Mine is currently running around 13.8V when all charged and driving down the road. Voltage should drop after 15 minutes or so of driving a bit once the battery is recharged from the start drain. I'm going to tighten the belt a bit more and aim for 14V.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,584 Posts
Tightening the belt will increase the alternator output voltage! Wow what makes you think that? Also a static battery voltage around 12 means it's gone flat.
How many know just how tight that belt needs to be? I have it quite tight now. Seems using a voltmeter to get the highest voltage is the best way to tell.

And static voltage of 12v is fine with the ignition ON engine OFF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
If belt super tight bearings on alternator won’t last as long. Belt should still deflect with 5-10 pounds finger pressure at long unsupported span. As I’m sure you already know.

Yeah 12 volts sitting over night is ok on a few year old battery or during real cold which drops voltage.

DDR I would remove most of the main body grounds and get bare metal with some dielectric grease on all connections. SBR711 always brought this up with rust belt cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Good point there's something i will look into. I been hearing this car has this issue of not starting in the cold a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
I don't think my Accent has ever failed to start, even down below -20F. +170kmiles now.
Yeah I think Hyundai in general are decent cold start vehicles; have had a few with over 200K miles and still fine. But good NGK plugs, factory wires, load tested batteries , biggest that will fit on pedestal mount. Always synthetic oil 5w20, no heavier.

DDR mentioned battery charger showing low and he left it over night to charge. The smart chargers are great but it’s very common IMO for them to do that. The digital charge level guages not real linear. Especially in the real cold. I’ve seen mine show low level; then jump to 60% then right up to 90% in under five minutes or so. Some fairly new batteries the smart chargers can’t even get past 90% maximum. Electronics not quite smart enough, or voltage loss from extreme temp maybe throwing off programming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,584 Posts
I run 5w30 in the Accent and you can tell it slowed the cranking speed down. But I put in the OE battery out of my '10 Gen Coupe in it last winter. It's just a 1/4" too long but fits and can be clamped down. Two sizes larger at 124R, but it's 9 years old this year.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
  1. Well on that battery charge maintainer you are right. I tested with the volt melter at 12.8 and maintainer read low and 80. Don't understand it but it's starting when I have it on overnite in the cold than it not starting in the mornings. I know went a winter without it starting till the weather changed till I got tired of trying to crank it and couldnt find nothing wrong. It has started up everyday till cold hit again. Weather warmed up and it started so I been putting this charger on at night and its been cold and starting. I scared not to put it on and see if it start without it. The cold could be pulling the volts down over the night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Maybe you have a parasitic load when car is off. Should be around 50-80 mili amps after car is off 5 mins. Remove battery post and complete circuit with meter leads using amps range. Trunk light are a common issue. Even dash cams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Further down battery light came on after having electrical system checked three days later alternator went out.
 
41 - 56 of 56 Posts
Top