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A braking noise when stopping from a low speed is often caused by an incompatibility between the pad and rotor. That is why I always use the manufacturer's OEM replacement brake pad. If the replacement pad was of a different material, it can make noise. If it was a slightly different size, it can make noise as it rubs against a portion of the brake rotor that had not been worn down by the previous pads. Failure to lube the brake pad clips, or improperly installing the brake pad shims can also make noise. Caliper guide pins are less likely to make a braking noise. If the second shop did actually remove the caliper from the pins and find them dry, then they should be lubricated. Have you returned to the original mechanic to have him correct the noise under his work "warranty".

Regardless of the level of brake work done, it is always important to verify that the mechanic properly torqued the wheel lugs when reinstalling the wheel. Mechanics routinely use an impact wrench to install tires and almost always over-torque and/or unevenly torque the lug nuts. That results in warping the rotor. You won't feel any pulsation at first, but after about 3,000-5,000 miles the warped rotor will rub against the retracted brake pad and cause a variation in the thickness of the rotor. That will be felt as a pulsating brake pedal when slowing from highway speeds. The same thing happens if the original rotor was already warped, or if a new one was installed that had too much runout. ANY brake job should include rotor thickness and runout measurements, with the proper corrections made. Of course, even if the rotor is perfect, or made to be such, improperly torquing the lug nuts will ruin it as noted above.
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