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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I am Raied from Canada. New to this forum and new to being a car owner over here too :) Completed my masters few weeks backs so instead of going to mechanic every time something shows up, I found this forum. Labors too expensive to ask questions :p

Anyway, I bought a 2002 xg350 back in Nov 2013 and is very pleased with the car. It was at around 180k KM at a killer deal. Although I was not encouraged to buy anything other than toyota but I really wanted something other than that and ended up with this. I really love this car and it has been driving really well but occasional problems come up and just vanish. So, here's my experience (along with some quick Qs):

1. The first problem that I faced about a month back was while trying to take out the car from the parking (the apartment parking is a big mess with piles of snow accumulated and taking out the car is the biggest challenge!), the wheel spin caused the ABS and TCS light to come on. I was told by someone that the sensors probably got dirt and will go away once I drive it couple of times. And it actually did. Both the light went off the next day when I took the car out. So that solved the problem quickly.

2. While driving after few weeks after the first incident, the CEL light came on. No funny engine noise, no shift stick problem and the car was moving just fine. I took it to an autopart store to get the code checked but they couldn't read it, saying its "dealer only code". Being a student at that time, a $100 bill to get a code from the dealer was a bit too much for me so I ignored the light that day. Took it out the very next day for a short trip to the mall and all of a sudden, the light went off. It was a relief and also a bit weird too!

3. Yesterday, I had the worst experience. Its pretty cold here (it was -30C yesterday). Generally, I always turn on the engine and clean the snow so the car get enough time to warm up. I don't plug the block heater in since the car starts just fine without any jump or shake. Yesterday, I didn't have to clean snow so I just turned on the ignition and after about a min or two, I shifted the gear to D. First thing I did notice was the shift was very stiff between N and D but it shifted and the car started moving without any problem. After driving on the road for few minutes, the car automatically braked. Like INSTANT break from 50km/h to 0. Engine was still on but the gas pedal wouldn't respond. No rev too. Just the engine was running. I shifted to tiptronic and the car was shaking and moving at like 1km/h speed. The CEL came on too. Put on the emergency lights, I stepped out and no funny smell (I am a noob when it comes to cars so I always rely on funny smell and the color of the fumes coming out of the exhaust). So, as a last resort before calling the tow company, I turned off the ignition and turn it back on and voila, the car started moving. No jerking, no funny noise and the stick was shifting smoothly too. I drove a lot after that and didn't notice anything other than the CEL being on. I didn't drive the car today. What my newby sense is telling me is that the car was too cold to be driven and the ECU stopped the car so no re circulation of oil occurs (does that make sense?). Any idea why this might have happened? The stick wasn't stiff anymore also.

Thanks :)
 

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The xg350 is a fly by wire system so the only way to tell what the problem is to have the codes scanned .they seem to have a reoccurring problem with the accelerator pedal position sensor,however that same symptom can be caused by a lot of other things.Get a proper code scan if its the APPS that is a 10 minute or less job to replace.
 

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SCAN IT,, likely something in the throttle control system.. incorrect throttle info will result in limited power.. we can give you throttle if the info cannot be trusted to be correct.

Scan it yet ? Need to know what DTC's is recovered in a "Pxxxx" format.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. So I am guessing I should take it to a dealer to get the code? Because last time, the code couldn't be read by an auto part store.
 

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There's plenty of specialized DIY scan tools on the market that have also 1000s of manufacturer specific codes supported. Even if you can't get text message in some cases you'll still get the plain number so this forum may be able to help.

Don't wanna make this an oil discussion but if I read -30°C that makes me shiver. Since you just bought that car, do you know what spec engine oil has been put in at the last change ?
I don't think it's related to the problems you described (they sound 'electric') but still worth checking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I took the car to a hyudai dealer and got the report. The check engine light is due to all the shift solenoids in transmission (190414). The dealer told me not to spend money on the car and drive it till it dies.

After googling for a bit, I came to find out the problem related to the solenoids. When I turn the engine on in cold weather, the shift stick needs hard push to move from neutral to drive (goes to reverse without any effort). With the car being warmed up, the shift doesn't appear to be jammed.

So should I just keep on driving the car without any concern? As long as its not a safety factor, I don't mind waiting for the car to warm up.
 

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The dealer told me not to spend money on the car and drive it till it dies.
... and then come back and buy a new Hyundai from them ?
Ridiculous, such a statement.

the problem related to the solenoids
As I recall these are relatively easy to fix/replace. First thing I'd do anyway is new tranny oil and filter (the can on the top).

With the car being warmed up, the shift doesn't appear to be jammed.
I'd suspect some issue with the linkage or the shift interlock. Frozen grease or something.

So should I just keep on driving the car without any concern?
Depends. I'd feel better with having these issues fixed.
 

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... and then come back and buy a new Hyundai from them ?
Ridiculous, such a statement.
Although that seemed funny (and I am sure that was the intention behind the curtains), I would say that was a good suggestion for me since I bought the car for $2000 and according to the mechanic, the solenoids are non-serviceable parts and the whole transmission would need replacement. That would cost double the amount with which I bought the car.

As I recall these are relatively easy to fix/replace. First thing I'd do anyway is new tranny oil and filter (the can on the top).
So they are serviceable! I have been googling and seems like they are. Don't know why the dealer said its non-serviceable. Maybe because they don't carry the part? Maybe....

I would be taking to a service station to get oil and filters changed. I will have them look at the transmission oil to see whether it looks alright and if not, I will get it and the filter replaced. Would you suggest to get those two done, wait and see how the shift stick works and then move to solenoid issue?

I'd suspect some issue with the linkage or the shift interlock. Frozen grease or something.

Depends. I'd feel better with having these issues fixed.
Thanks for your help :) I will address these issues to another mechanic.
 

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So they are serviceable!
Sure they are. The test procedure says: open valve block cover, measure resistance, replace if out of spec (spec being ~3ohms)

dealer said its non-serviceable
They make more $$$ on a new tranny ...
Or they just don't know or just want to scare you off, maybe ...

I would be taking to a service station to get oil and filters changed.
make sure they put the correct filter. Looks like an engine oil filter but isn't. Must be marked 'A/T only'.
get those two done, wait and see how the shift stick works and then move to solenoid issue?
I don't expect it to change much, the shift problem sounds like lock cam & cable related.
And the solenoids, have to see then. A/T ECU constantly monitors resistance/voltage drop there and in case of out of limits just cuts 12V supply to all of them via relay - which makes the A/T lock in 3rd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you so much for all the help and suggestions :D

I can measure the resistance (I have access to multimeter) but the newby question would be, where is it located? :confused: Is it somewhere under the hood or under the car? If its under the car, it would be intimidating for me.

Sure they are. The test procedure says: open valve block cover, measure resistance, replace if out of spec (spec being ~3ohms)


They make more $$$ on a new tranny ...
Or they just don't know or just want to scare you off, maybe ...


make sure they put the correct filter. Looks like an engine oil filter but isn't. Must be marked 'A/T only'.


I don't expect it to change much, the shift problem sounds like lock cam & cable related.
And the solenoids, have to see then. A/T ECU constantly monitors resistance/voltage drop there and in case of out of limits just cuts 12V supply to all of them via relay - which makes the A/T lock in 3rd gear.
 

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Well so I have been trying to figure out the problem with the car. Took it to another transmission shop and told them what the dealer said. They did their own diagnosis and also replaced another valve body (solenoids) but they said that the pressure was still too low in the transmission and suggested that I may want to look into getting the transmission replaced. I declined the offer and drove the car back home (they charged me $20 for all the tests; they just used the solenoids to see whether that can solve the problem).

Before taking my car to the shop, I got suspicious of the fluid and when I checked it (with the car idling and at the running temperature), it was at cold mark! I don't know why the dealer didn't see that :eek: So, I topped off with new sp3 oil (got it from the dealer since I couldn't find a worthy replacement anywhere close to my place; or within transit reach). The car drove quite well (some occasional jerks from 1st to 2nd; primary issue is the car not willing to shift from reverse to drive without some effort) and so I took it to the shop. Now I am planning to take it to another shop to see what they say. I still have the feeling (although I am, in NO way, knows anything related to transmission mechanism; just my instinct) that there's something between the fluid line and the transmission doesn't replacement. Or maybe some sensors?! I don't know.... :(

Alongside, the last freeze killed my battery (won't hold charge; needs boost everytime) so I will be getting a new battery tomorrow and go from there.

Any input is appreciated :) Thanks
 

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Although the CEL and tranny issue maybe related. Another reason for the CEL coming on could be a gas cap that has not been tightened properly. I had a 2003 Hyundai and this was an issue with that car and seemed to be a problem for a lot of people.
 
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