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Hi, I need to repair and/or replace the clutch and/or release bearing in a 2000 Tiburon w/manual transmission. Question is, do I remove the transaxle first and then the bell housing? Or are they removed as a unit? I read that the shift lever, release bearing and clutch are all connected. If so I don't understand how one can pull the transaxle and BH w/the lever and release bearing attached to the clutch as I assume the clutch is bolted to the flywheel.
I searched the forum but couldn't find any info. There was one link to an old post but it wouldn't come up, probably too old.
TIA
 

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It's actually a pretty good question. The answer is you remove it as a unit. To clear the clutch forks from the bearing, you simply remove the actuator arm (which the slave cylinder pushes on), and this allows the forks to clear the bearing. Otherwise it doesn't come off.
 

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Thanks. I took another GOOD look at it and saw, as you said, that it comes out as a unit. I had a hard time understanding how removing the actuator arm would allow it to come apart. Then I had a chance to look at another transaxle that was out and then it made sense. I like to understand what I'm doing or going to be doing before I get started on something.
 

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I like to understand what I'm doing or going to be doing before I get started on something.
That's the wisest comment I have read this week! Took me a while to get to that point when I was younger.

But after my share of goof-ups, I finally "got it." Asking questions is your friend! :thumbsup:
 

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Hi, I need to repair and/or replace the clutch and/or release bearing in a 2000 Tiburon w/manual transmission. Question is, do I remove the transaxle first and then the bell housing? Or are they removed as a unit? I read that the shift lever, release bearing and clutch are all connected. If so I don't understand how one can pull the transaxle and BH w/the lever and release bearing attached to the clutch as I assume the clutch is bolted to the flywheel.
I searched the forum but couldn't find any info. There was one link to an old post but it wouldn't come up, probably too old.
TIA
Although this is an old post, I replaced my clutch in my 1999 Coupe which is pretty similar to most of the models around that period and though it might be useful for someone in the future who needs to replace their clutch.

The entire process took me 8 hours, basically you need to:

Drain the gearbox oil.
Jack the car up and put it on a set of car stands.
remove the air filter top box, unscrew it from the throttle body and unclip the vacumn hose, tilt it over the engine so its not in the way.
remove the 3 bolts holding the lower half of the air box and lift the air box out and put it aside.
remove the 3 bolts holding the air intake box and put it aside also.
you can now see the top of the gearbox.
to give yourself more working space, remove the battery.
remove the split pin that hold the left had gear change mechanism.
there are 2 set screw that hold the right hand part of the gear change mechanism, remove them and lift the gear change away and secure it.
remove the nut on the clutch lever then remove the 2 set screws holding the clutch slave cylinder, put it aside so it is out of the way.

Remove both front wheels
Unbolt and support the calipers (2 bolts)
remove the split pin and big nut that bolts the transaxle to the wheel hub
unbolt the strut/shock absorber (2 bolts)
Pull each transaxle out (just give it a tug and it pops out) - if you don't drain the gearbox oil then it will leak out the transaxle holes when you move the gearbox).
get under the car and remove the 3 bolts that are in the bottom of the bell housing
get a jack and jack the engine before the bell housing so it supports the engine.
remove the bolts from the engine mounts (which are actually mounted to the gearbox)
remove the 2 rear and 2 front bolts on the cross member under the engine
remove the front engine mount bracket from the gearbox
via the passenger wheel well, remove the 4 rubbers that cover the bolts for the top gearbox mount
the top gearbox mount has a hydraulic pipe running through it, remove the clip holding it in place.
remove the 4 bolts holding the top gearbox mount and lift the top mount out of the way
remove the mounting bracket (2 bolts) and put it aside.
unclip the reverse switch sensor
unclip the sensor at the right hand side of the gearbox ( speed sensor?)
put a jack under the gearbox and make sure the weight of the gearbox is being held
remove the 2 bolts holding the starter motor
on the fron of the engine, there is a 10mm set screw holding a small bracket, remove it also and retain the wiring harness back away from the engine/gearbox
remove the remaining gearbox bolts
double check all bolts are removed
pry the gearbox bell housing away from the engine about 2-3 inches and then if needed lower the jack slowly to lower the gearbox clear from the clutch (The gearbox is heavy so be careful).

REASSEMBLY WARNING

The clutch is bolted to the fly wheel, it holds the friction plate to the flywheel and when you remove the OLD clutch the release bearing is locked to it, when you install a new clutch you do NOT lock the release bearing to the clutch, it sits in the gearbox housing and when reassembled you manually engage it before installing the slave cylinder components back in. Your new clutch kit will have instructions. READ THEM

Removal & Instalation

Removing the clutch is a simple process of removing the 6 set screws and then using a flat blade screw driver to gently pry it from the flywheel (it has 3 guiding pins on the flywheel holding it in place).
As you remove the clutch the friction plate will fall out, be ready to catch it so you can see the correct orientation for the new one.
Installation is a matter of using the friction plate alignment tool to hold the friction plate to the fly wheel while you plate the new clutch housing over it, align the housing with the 3 pins on the flywheel and then install the 6 set screws and torque them down. Remove the alignment tool and put it in you tool kit.
Lift the bearing shift lever out and clean it spotless with thinners and reapply fresh new grease to the picot points and the sliding points.
Grease the shaft the bearing sits over and then fit the shift lever in place and engage it with the bearing and leave it seated in the bell housing.

Reassembly

Lift the gearbox with the jack so you can push it onto the engine, there are guide studs on each side of the engine to align it.
Once the gearbox has aligned to the engine insert the two top high tensile bolts first (finger tight).
Then install the starter motor bolts and all the remaining gearbox bolts.
Torque the bolts to the manual specification.
Get under the car and refit the front engine mount bracket.
Now put the cross member in place, insert the rear engine mount bolt first, then the front (jiggle the engine to get the bolts through the rubber mounted hole).
Install the rear and then front bolts holding the cross member.
Screw the nuts for the engine mount bolts on and torque them down.
Install the top gearbox mounting bracket and install the rubber mount bracket and then put the 4 rubber covers back.
Gearbox should now be secure.
Feed the transaxles back into place push the transaxles back into the gearbox.
Reassembly the slave cylinder and gear change assembly.
Refill the oil with new oil, about 2.2 litres should be needed. There is a bolt on the front side of the gearbox, you fill the gearbox till the oil dribbles out the filler hole.
Install the air intake components
Lastly the Battery.
Now install the wheel hub over the transaxle and attach it back to the strut/shock absorber.
Refit the caliper.
tighten the wheel hub nut to correct torque and install the split pin.
Lift the car on the side you are working on and remove the car stand, fit that wheel and lower the car down on the wheel.
Repeat for other side so car is back to level.
Start car in neutral and carefully check you new clutch.
Done
 

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After reading this I realised I had made a few typo errors:

The gearbox oil is refilled till it pours out the filler hole which is on the side, its about 2.2Quarts not 2.2Litres.
The thrust bearing lever PIVOTs in a plastic holder, clean this and then grease it and refit it, also re-grease the level where it contacts the thrust bearing as per the instructions that came with your clutch kit.



Although this is an old post, I replaced my clutch in my 1999 Coupe which is pretty similar to most of the models around that period and though it might be useful for someone in the future who needs to replace their clutch.

The entire process took me 8 hours, basically you need to:

Drain the gearbox oil.
Jack the car up and put it on a set of car stands.
remove the air filter top box, unscrew it from the throttle body and unclip the vacumn hose, tilt it over the engine so its not in the way.
remove the 3 bolts holding the lower half of the air box and lift the air box out and put it aside.
remove the 3 bolts holding the air intake box and put it aside also.
you can now see the top of the gearbox.
to give yourself more working space, remove the battery.
remove the split pin that hold the left had gear change mechanism.
there are 2 set screw that hold the right hand part of the gear change mechanism, remove them and lift the gear change away and secure it.
remove the nut on the clutch lever then remove the 2 set screws holding the clutch slave cylinder, put it aside so it is out of the way.

Remove both front wheels
Unbolt and support the calipers (2 bolts)
remove the split pin and big nut that bolts the transaxle to the wheel hub
unbolt the strut/shock absorber (2 bolts)
Pull each transaxle out (just give it a tug and it pops out) - if you don't drain the gearbox oil then it will leak out the transaxle holes when you move the gearbox).
get under the car and remove the 3 bolts that are in the bottom of the bell housing
get a jack and jack the engine before the bell housing so it supports the engine.
remove the bolts from the engine mounts (which are actually mounted to the gearbox)
remove the 2 rear and 2 front bolts on the cross member under the engine
remove the front engine mount bracket from the gearbox
via the passenger wheel well, remove the 4 rubbers that cover the bolts for the top gearbox mount
the top gearbox mount has a hydraulic pipe running through it, remove the clip holding it in place.
remove the 4 bolts holding the top gearbox mount and lift the top mount out of the way
remove the mounting bracket (2 bolts) and put it aside.
unclip the reverse switch sensor
unclip the sensor at the right hand side of the gearbox ( speed sensor?)
put a jack under the gearbox and make sure the weight of the gearbox is being held
remove the 2 bolts holding the starter motor
on the fron of the engine, there is a 10mm set screw holding a small bracket, remove it also and retain the wiring harness back away from the engine/gearbox
remove the remaining gearbox bolts
double check all bolts are removed
pry the gearbox bell housing away from the engine about 2-3 inches and then if needed lower the jack slowly to lower the gearbox clear from the clutch (The gearbox is heavy so be careful).

REASSEMBLY WARNING

The clutch is bolted to the fly wheel, it holds the friction plate to the flywheel and when you remove the OLD clutch the release bearing is locked to it, when you install a new clutch you do NOT lock the release bearing to the clutch, it sits in the gearbox housing and when reassembled you manually engage it before installing the slave cylinder components back in. Your new clutch kit will have instructions. READ THEM

Removal & Instalation

Removing the clutch is a simple process of removing the 6 set screws and then using a flat blade screw driver to gently pry it from the flywheel (it has 3 guiding pins on the flywheel holding it in place).
As you remove the clutch the friction plate will fall out, be ready to catch it so you can see the correct orientation for the new one.
Installation is a matter of using the friction plate alignment tool to hold the friction plate to the fly wheel while you plate the new clutch housing over it, align the housing with the 3 pins on the flywheel and then install the 6 set screws and torque them down. Remove the alignment tool and put it in you tool kit.
Lift the bearing shift lever out and clean it spotless with thinners and reapply fresh new grease to the picot points and the sliding points.
Grease the shaft the bearing sits over and then fit the shift lever in place and engage it with the bearing and leave it seated in the bell housing.

Reassembly

Lift the gearbox with the jack so you can push it onto the engine, there are guide studs on each side of the engine to align it.
Once the gearbox has aligned to the engine insert the two top high tensile bolts first (finger tight).
Then install the starter motor bolts and all the remaining gearbox bolts.
Torque the bolts to the manual specification.
Get under the car and refit the front engine mount bracket.
Now put the cross member in place, insert the rear engine mount bolt first, then the front (jiggle the engine to get the bolts through the rubber mounted hole).
Install the rear and then front bolts holding the cross member.
Screw the nuts for the engine mount bolts on and torque them down.
Install the top gearbox mounting bracket and install the rubber mount bracket and then put the 4 rubber covers back.
Gearbox should now be secure.
Feed the transaxles back into place push the transaxles back into the gearbox.
Reassembly the slave cylinder and gear change assembly.
Refill the oil with new oil, about 2.2 litres should be needed. There is a bolt on the front side of the gearbox, you fill the gearbox till the oil dribbles out the filler hole.
Install the air intake components
Lastly the Battery.
Now install the wheel hub over the transaxle and attach it back to the strut/shock absorber.
Refit the caliper.
tighten the wheel hub nut to correct torque and install the split pin.
Lift the car on the side you are working on and remove the car stand, fit that wheel and lower the car down on the wheel.
Repeat for other side so car is back to level.
Start car in neutral and carefully check you new clutch.
Done
 

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Here's a video of someone doing it on their car.
I know it isn't your car.
But, it is to give you a better idea of the process

 
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