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Hi,

I'm about to drop $997 on an brand new ECU which cannot even be found in the US of A right now. I was told that it has to be new because of the VIN and the flashing of this unit.

I bought one on eBay before I heard this piece of information.

I'm just wondering first and foremost: WHY? Why can't we flash my used one?

And is there anyway around this solution?

I've been riding on a bad "brain" for a long time now and I finally have the money to do something about it. But before I do, I just thot I'd double-check for SURE if I have to buy a new ECU from Korea (about a 2 week- 2 month wait, or so I'm told).

TIA,

Mary
Pgh, PA
2012 Hyundai Accent
6 speed manual
 

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I don't know anything about flashing the VIN, but I was wondering what's the issue is your dealing with that makes you think you need a new ECU?

One of our forum members (@sbr711;) is a Hyundai tech. Maybe he can advise us about the VIN.

Regards.
Scott.
 

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It all started with my RPMs hitting 4 or higher when I pushed in the clutch to shift gears. So my mechanic (and others) agreed that it was the throttle body unit. So we replaced it. Didn't work. So we thot the unit was bad. Repeat. Nothing. Mechanic said it must be the ECU. BTW, lots of codes are throwing as well, now.

I bought a used ECU from eBay and my mechanic's flash guy said, he could only flash a brand new ECU from the dealer and the dealer confirmed this. I don't know what or why the VIN is involved in this. I lost that piece of information along the way, sorry about that. But I heard VIN once, I think?

I ran it this way for over a year. Then this past January when it was REALLY cold out and I had a longer trip (1.5 hours) to see mom, the check engine light started blinking and I lost some compression/pick up going up a really long hill. Had to take it to a mechanic where mom lives and he happened to specialize in electronics/computerized stuff. He said, it probably isn't the ECU; I've only seen 1 of those go bad in 15 years. IT WAS. It threw out too much voltage to a coil pack and and spark plugs and blew 'em up real good!

Soooooo, I have to bite the bullet, and buy this "not from around here" ECU brand new. I think that this computer-type mechanic confirmed that it had to come from the dealer also (maybe he said VIN?).

So, here I am! Wondering why oh why can't we flash an old used ECU? I'm a bit of a computer geek, and I love HACKS and this is a computer, so I'm looking for a hack! :D

Thanks for reading all that. It felt good to get it all out!

Mary
 

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The primary reason the VIN needs to be flashed is for the immobilizer to work correctly. On my 2012, I have successfully ran many different ECUs with incorrect VIN and have had no issues. I'd just spend the $35 or so on eBay and try it. You have nothing to lose.
 

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We did at one point put this ECU into my car, and I ran around with it for about an hour? The RPM thingy didn't go away.

I forget to mention that sometimes, after the second time out, I have to turn the car off and back on because I get very very little compression/RPMs. And my cruise control won't set at.

So, are you saying that I don't have to flash the ECU? Just drop it in and go? is it possible that I bought a BAD ECU from eBay?<<<<I guess that was a dumb question.

And what is an immobilizer?

Thank you for your quick response!

Mary
 

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I think you might want to spend a little more time with someone who has the right diagnostic equipment (auto scope, diagnostic computer that allows bi-directional controls... Etc). You might put 10 ECUs only to find out they all work the same way because some sensor has a short or pulling the whole high speed CAN network down. So take a step back, look at wiring diagrams, run some tests and determine at least 90% it's your computer.

As for flashing, I'm sure there's a certain level of 'reset' that needs to be done with these things but again, you need something more than a code reader to be able to do that. Looking at live data would at least confirm your network is fine, sensors are reporting but computer can't interpret them correctly.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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Sounds like you confirmed the ecu is not the problem (hard to imagine your issue being caused by ecu). List your codes and I may be able to help.
 

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Had to take it to a mechanic where mom lives and he happened to specialize in electronics/computerized stuff. He said, it probably isn't the ECU; I've only seen 1 of those go bad in 15 years.
I specialize in vehicle electronic/computerized stuff too and I agree with him. That's why I asked the question. I wouldn't be a bit surprised to find your still suffering from the same problem even after spending $$$ on a new ECU and having it reflashed with your VIN. The garage that told you you need a new ECU is the same garage that told you you needed a new throttle body, but that didn't fix it. Kinda sounds to me like they are guessing what the fault is rather than diagnosing it.

Hypermom said:
We did at one point put this ECU into my car, and I ran around with it for about an hour? The RPM thingy didn't go away.
As Fst-FTR said, that kinda confirms the ECU isn't the problem. What did the garage say to explain why the exact same symptoms are being experienced with a second ECU?

I'd suggest you have the computer scanned and post your trouble codes here. Maybe they will give us a clue about what is really going on.
 

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I try to avoid tickets like this at work,, hope Dumb & Dumber get tasked with it,, but because we all manage to avoid it all day because drops get pushed off for waiters,, and advisors not handling their tickets, Senior advisor finally come along near end of day with "here, need you to look at this" -- (right DADDY) -- Daddy peeks in here once & while

-- NIB PCM,, the PCM carries a part number for the part (we know that),, and we might have multiple numbers for chassis specifics, and ROM ID

-- Replacement PCM MUST sport the same part number on the label

-- NIB units come with ROM that was applicable at the time the unit was made and boxed,, and does not have "VIN" written to unit,, this is to ID the original chassis the PCM come from, and used for ID vehicle when we do scan, and to prevent bogus claims on driveabilty concerns under warranty,, claim bounce when ticket has VIN "A" on ticket, and GDS print reflects PCM scanned belongs to VIN "B"...

-- NEW PCM will start and run car, BUT -- We now have to manual enter VIN for GDS to ID vehicle,, after start up we WILL have DTC for VIN NOT WRITTEN,,, so we have to very slowly enter VIN and make sure correct, then hit "ENTER" for it to write..

-- From there, we is FREE to run assorted modules for updates as listed in the update tab, select ENGINE, read ROM,, if event applicable, then we can install that event (update)..

-- GO BACK INTO PROFILE AND PUT YOUR 201x Accent 6spd M/T into profile and the Pittsburg PA also...

-- If car runs and drives, I dont suspect a "bad" brain.. thought I seen something about "codes",,, what are the codes recovered in PROPER "Pxxxx" format,, this hold more value to diag than "mechanic says / thinks"....

-- Flashing MIL tells me there is MISFIRE detect that will kill catalyst if neglected.. coils on them been once in while fault,, need DTC to know what PCM is seeing for fault
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow!

That was incredible although I have no idea what you said, mostly.

I need to get codes in a PROPER "Pxxxx" format << that much I got! I'm guessing that is not the same codes that I get from AutoZone, right? I've already started looking for someone in the area to read the electrical codes, right?

Regarding the used eBay computer. I had bought one and had to send it back because it did not match the original ECU numbers/id. The we got the exact numbers from the original ECU and I found a match on eBay. I attached the pix for fun, even tho, the consensus here is that I do not have a bad ECU.

The blinking check engine light was fixed when they replaced the coil pack and spark plugs.

Thanks sbr711 for that in depth explanation and diagnostic write up!

I updated my profile! Thanks for that tip too!

Mary
 

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Yes you need valid codes. I would be very surprised if a generic scanner can't give you the info you need. The specific codes manufacturers put in there are what I call fluffy codes and don't have a significant input.
 

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I'm guessing that is not the same codes that I get from AutoZone, right?
No, AutoZone will pull the same codes from it as anyone else. Just ask them to scan it and supply you with a print out of the codes, then post your codes here.
 

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OK, I am posting my codes here from a pix I snap of the print out. Please let me know if you can't make it out and I'll type them all in.

As I move along this process, I am reminded of more and more symptoms that I have. Here's a list:

1. The RPM's do NOT rev up any longer when I press in the clutch, but RPMs are a little high when I first turn it over, and then they bounce up and down, sometimes so much so that the car stalls out. <<<This only happens on my 2nd trip after I've stopped the car then got back in and started it up again.
NOTE: The 2nd mechanic in Johnstown told me he fixed the RPMs from rev'ng so high.
2. The cruise control never works on the 2nd trip out.
3. After filling up, the gas reads empty and idiot light blinks. This goes on until I get down to about 3/4 of a tank.
4. My dash lights are either off completely or really really dim when headlights are off. Come back on when headlights are on.

I think that's it for now. I took a video of the RPMs bouncing yesterday. Will try to add that here as well via Google photos link?

Thank you,

Mary
 

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Erratic idle together with MAP & Throttle range/performance trouble code suggests there might be a vacuum leak to me.

My guess is there is air leaking into the engine inlet that is bypassing the throttle valve. That causes the engine idle speed to increase. The engine computer will drive the throttle valve closed in an attempt to slow the engine down. When the throttle is closed below it's normal minimum position and the idle speed is still above the commanded value, the computer will log a throttle range/performance code. The inlet manifold pressure measured by the MAP sensor is related to throttle position. When the MAP sensor signal is higher than it should be for a fully closed throttle, the computer will log a MAP range/performance code.

I suspect the cruise control failure might be due to the throttle control trouble code. I'd imagine cruise control would be inhibited when there's a throttle problem. I'm not sure what's going on with the dash lights and fuel gauge though.
 

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0326 DTC is update PCM to latest software.. also logic change for 0461,, install and see how it act afterward for the 0463...

0106 -- reset engine adaptive learn via GDS in Software Management for ENGINE

Find where negative cable attach to body (by hood hinge ??).... remove lug from body and grind paint away so lug sit on bare steel,, slap some antiseize on exposed steel and re-assemble lug..

Find ground strap lug at left frame rail,, do same clean up procedure

Locate strap between cylinder head at right side to body,, same procedure...

We all should be well aware that paint is an "INSULATOR",,,, not a "CONDUCTOR"...


The throttle actuator codes,, clean throttle plate and bore,, verify throttle connector for fit and pin tension.. Do a "CAP DISCHARGE" of the electrical,, then after power put back to car,,, turn key on for no more than 2 seconds, and turn off for 60 second,, turn power back on, wait a few second, then start,, see how it act.. This process is something you try on the cheap as a DIY, and see what happen from there
 
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