Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my install from last week. Thanx Accentgloled for a great write up and pics, it was a big help, also installed accent's cup holder lights. Fed LC2i with rear speaker signal from dash, knob in center console controls LC2i.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
Here is my install from last week. Thanx Accentgloled for a great write up and pics, it was a big help, also installed accent's cup holder lights. Fed LC2i with rear speaker signal from dash, knob in center console controls LC2i.
Looks tidy and sweet. How do you like how it sounds?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why should they be facing back?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, really why should they be facing the back? If someone can give me a legitimate reason then I will turn them around. The box is sealed, and MOST of the time he back seats are down (when the seats are up than someone is in the back seat and the music isn't very loud any way).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
No, really why should they be facing the back? If someone can give me a legitimate reason then I will turn them around. The box is sealed, and MOST of the time he back seats are down (when the seats are up than someone is in the back seat and the music isn't very loud any way).
Here's (in my opinion) a legitimate reason: is it not ridiculous to drive around with your back seats down just for the sake of audio quality? Do you put them up when you park somewhere, then back down again to drive? I have the SRQ custom-fit box off eBay, and it points outward; it sounds AMAZING and when tuned right it doesn't phase-cancel any other speakers.

My two cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
With a sealed enclosure it should not matter a ton.

If you had a ported enclosure then things would change a bit, not to say that you couldn't have your subs facing forward but port position/orientation would need to be considered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
No, really why should they be facing the back? If someone can give me a legitimate reason then I will turn them around. The box is sealed, and MOST of the time he back seats are down (when the seats are up than someone is in the back seat and the music isn't very loud any way).
I did give you a legitimate reason..its called loading. Txboy said it first but whether I agree with it is a different conversation as it depends on vehicle. No offense, but judging the quality and degree of the install Im not sure if you know what cabin gain is? Short and sweet, ever wonder why a home theaters bass output is less than that of your car? Its because of space. Theres too much of it in a room and not enough of it in a car. But thats good because we make more output easier because bass waves are longer than our cars so it builds up easier. Take a 40hz note, its about 28 ft long, much longer than our cars interior so it just builds pressure. This boost occurs mostly at specific range and differs per vehicle and its like an eq boost. Could be good or bad depending on the sub and the enclosure and its placement and the natural transfer function of the interior. An active eq may be needed to tame the peaks and valleys. But judging the equipment being used, Im assuming its not an active system and there was no signal sweep performed to find that sweet spot to begin with. So im guessing youre just concerned with having bass. This is where loading and custom work comes into it. Your subwoofer is aimed into the interior of your car with air gaps around the sides. If youre going to do this, please consider doing it right. Seal the gaps around the enclosure and the interior of the car. My suggestion is if you run it like this, ditch that enclosure and seal the trunk from the interior and go infinite baffle and use the whole trunk as your enclosure. Much better response with less power needed and a whole trunk to use. You have cancellation occurring. Thats when the front wave and the back wave meet each other and cancel themselves out. Youre losing bass in simpler terms. Probably not much deadening used on the interior panels which is robbing you of output. Yes, Its nice to see your trunk lid flexing, but its embarrassing since the more flex in a panel, the more bass youre losing since this pressure is now being used to move your panels instead of delivering you bass that you paid for. So, I drifted..sorry. Back to my legitimate reason, so by taking a smaller subwoofer ( I use a Jl Audio 6w3) or by using that big rectangular box, you place it and aim it in different locations in the trunk and guess what...more or less bass, DB meter would be nice, but I guess you could use your ears. The goal is to find that sweet loading spot and put the enclosure there. Imagine blowing into a dixie cup compared to blowing into a trash can. Pressure builds up quicker in that cup. Poke holes in that cup and thats what you have in your install. You want to seal that cup. SO by sealing the trunk off from the front, deadening all panels and with proper placement of your subwoofer you can reap all the bass you can. You could have prevented hacking your battery terminal cup by running your power from under it and into the terminal cup with the other cables. Thats a freebie. But a legitimate way to run your power none the less.
 

·
Registered
2013 Sonata SE
Joined
·
248 Posts
I did give you a legitimate reason..its called loading. Txboy said it first but whether I agree with it is a different conversation as it depends on vehicle. No offense, but judging the quality and degree of the install Im not sure if you know what cabin gain is? Short and sweet, ever wonder why a home theaters bass output is less than that of your car? Its because of space. Theres too much of it in a room and not enough of it in a car. But thats good because we make more output easier because bass waves are longer than our cars so it builds up easier. Take a 40hz note, its about 28 ft long, much longer than our cars interior so it just builds pressure. This boost occurs mostly at specific range and differs per vehicle and its like an eq boost. Could be good or bad depending on the sub and the enclosure and its placement and the natural transfer function of the interior. An active eq may be needed to tame the peaks and valleys. But judging the equipment being used, Im assuming its not an active system and there was no signal sweep performed to find that sweet spot to begin with. So im guessing youre just concerned with having bass. This is where loading and custom work comes into it. Your subwoofer is aimed into the interior of your car with air gaps around the sides. If youre going to do this, please consider doing it right. Seal the gaps around the enclosure and the interior of the car. My suggestion is if you run it like this, ditch that enclosure and seal the trunk from the interior and go infinite baffle and use the whole trunk as your enclosure. Much better response with less power needed and a whole trunk to use. You have cancellation occurring. Thats when the front wave and the back wave meet each other and cancel themselves out. Youre losing bass in simpler terms. Probably not much deadening used on the interior panels which is robbing you of output. Yes, Its nice to see your trunk lid flexing, but its embarrassing since the more flex in a panel, the more bass youre losing since this pressure is now being used to move your panels instead of delivering you bass that you paid for. So, I drifted..sorry. Back to my legitimate reason, so by taking a smaller subwoofer ( I use a Jl Audio 6w3) or by using that big rectangular box, you place it and aim it in different locations in the trunk and guess what...more or less bass, DB meter would be nice, but I guess you could use your ears. The goal is to find that sweet loading spot and put the enclosure there. Imagine blowing into a dixie cup compared to blowing into a trash can. Pressure builds up quicker in that cup. Poke holes in that cup and thats what you have in your install. You want to seal that cup. SO by sealing the trunk off from the front, deadening all panels and with proper placement of your subwoofer you can reap all the bass you can. You could have prevented hacking your battery terminal cup by running your power from under it and into the terminal cup with the other cables. Thats a freebie. But a legitimate way to run your power none the less.
i see i'm not the only one on the forum (even though i just joined) that knows why his sub placement is wrong and the power wire is kind of "ehh"...

to the OP.., from what ricekake and I are saying: we're not trying to criticize or talk smack about your install. we're trying to help you out to make your system perform better..in all the years i've done amp installs, i've NEVER ONCE installed subs facing the cabin of a car. they always face away....just to add more to what he said (in layman's terms) facing the subs into the trunk will make it sound louder because the subs are producing bass that will "hit" the interior of the trunk and then "bounce" off the trunk and that is the bass you will be hearing. i know you're amp install looks like it's kind of permanent but if possible, try taking the amp off the box, moving the box around facing the other way and give it a listen!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
i see i'm not the only one on the forum (even though i just joined) that knows why his sub placement is wrong and the power wire is kind of "ehh"...

to the OP.., from what ricekake and I are saying: we're not trying to criticize or talk smack about your install. we're trying to help you out to make your system perform better..in all the years i've done amp installs, i've NEVER ONCE installed subs facing the cabin of a car. they always face away....just to add more to what he said (in layman's terms) facing the subs into the trunk will make it sound louder because the subs are producing bass that will "hit" the interior of the trunk and then "bounce" off the trunk and that is the bass you will be hearing. i know you're amp install looks like it's kind of permanent but if possible, try taking the amp off the box, moving the box around facing the other way and give it a listen!
Yup, what he said.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Looks nice, I like it. And if you like it, that's all that matters.

Now, what you should do is automate the seat backs and get them to drop when you turn on the system and pull back closed when it's off. Run a relay off the feed to the amp, and in series thru a couple pressure switches in the seats so they stay up if someone is sitting there. Other than that, I have no idea what else you'd need to make it work, but it'd be cool! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I will turn the box around. But I will not have to remove the amp. I set the box up the way I did so it was very easy to take out simply disconnect the power and ground from the distribution blocks and unplug the connector for the LC2i which brings in the speaker level and vine control level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With a sealed enclosure it should not matter a ton.

If you had a ported enclosure then things would change a bit, not to say that you couldn't have your subs facing forward but port position/orientation would need to be considered.
It is a sealed enclosure, and I'm not trying to rattle the windows I am simply looking for tight clean punch a little bit more base that I was getting with the stock system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Try it and see, I have always found rear facing to be 'better'. Also, try removing the plastic 8" sub block panel in the rear deck, you may get more bass w/ the seats up that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Try it and see, I have always found rear facing to be 'better'. Also, try removing the plastic 8" sub block panel in the rear deck, you may get more bass w/ the seats up that way.
If I turn the box around should I seal the gaps between the sides of the box and the sides of the trunk if that is true should I then also keep the 8 inch sub a block panel in the rear deck or should that come out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
Don't turn the box around just because these guys tell you to do so.:00000732:

There is not a magic rule that says you will get better sound turned around.

Sure if you feel you are missing bass and think you could get more then you can try facing it the other way and it may improve the output.

But you might want to throw some wire protector around that power wire up front...just in case.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top