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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I really haven't seen anyone do a car audio upgrade on the AD and document their progress so I thought that I would try to contribute to the forum with this journey.

My goal

I wanted a simple plug and play, drop in solution to replace the stock speakers. I do not want to replace the head unit, nor do I want to install an amp if at all possible. I don't want to have to cut any of the stock wiring if at all possible. I wanted a nice sounding budget replacement to my stock system.

My current solution

Front components - Infinity PR6500CS Primus 6 1/2" Component.
Rear coaxial - Infinity PR6502IS 6.5 Inch.
Speaker wire harness - Metra 72-7302
Speaker bracket adapter - Scosche SAHY651

Why I chose what I chose

So several reasons. I have always enjoyed the sound quality of the entry level Infinity systems. Another reason is that these speakers are very efficient at 93db, that means that it will not take much power in order to get a lot of volume from them, and as I am using the stock head unit this is particularly important. third reason is that these speakers are rated 3 ohm and should squeeze as much power out of the stock head unit while not over stressing that unit. The speaker harness was hard to identify for the new AD generation but I have verified that, at least with the value edition, you will need the Metra 72-7302. last but not least the Scosche SAHY651 brackets should give the proper amount of stand off to give clearance inside of the door panel.

I will update with installation procedures, pictures, and my experiences as I go!
 

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Hey guys, I really haven't seen anyone do a car audio upgrade on the AD and document their progress so I thought that I would try to contribute to the forum with this journey.

My goal

I wanted a simple plug and play, drop in solution to replace the stock speakers. I do not want to replace the head unit, nor do I want to install an amp if at all possible. I don't want to have to cut any of the stock wiring if at all possible. I wanted a nice sounding budget replacement to my stock system.

My current solution

Front components - Infinity PR6500CS Primus 6 1/2" Component.
Rear coaxial - Infinity PR6502IS 6.5 Inch.
Speaker wire harness - Metra 72-7302
Speaker bracket adapter - Scosche SAHY651

Why I chose what I chose

So several reasons. I have always enjoyed the sound quality of the entry level Infinity systems. Another reason is that these speakers are very efficient at 93db, that means that it will not take much power in order to get a lot of volume from them, and as I am using the stock head unit this is particularly important. third reason is that these speakers are rated 3 ohm and should squeeze as much power out of the stock head unit while not over stressing that unit. The speaker harness was hard to identify for the new AD generation but I have verified that, at least with the value edition, you will need the Metra 72-7302. last but not least the Scosche SAHY651 brackets should give the proper amount of stand off to give clearance inside of the door panel.

I will update with installation procedures, pictures, and my experiences as I go!
Looking forward to your updates... Post lots of pics!
 

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Do you plan on replacing the front tweeters? That are small and located high on the door. I'm curious what would be a drop in replacement. Since I am also considering replacing the stock speakers to increase the audio quality

Edit: never mind. I see the first link shows separate tweeters and woofers.
.
Hey guys, I really haven't seen anyone do a car audio upgrade on the AD and document their progress so I thought that I would try to contribute to the forum with this journey.

My goal

I wanted a simple plug and play, drop in solution to replace the stock speakers. I do not want to replace the head unit, nor do I want to install an amp if at all possible. I don't want to have to cut any of the stock wiring if at all possible. I wanted a nice sounding budget replacement to my stock system.

My current solution

Front components - Infinity PR6500CS Primus 6 1/2" Component.
Rear coaxial - Infinity PR6502IS 6.5 Inch.
Speaker wire harness - Metra 72-7302
Speaker bracket adapter - Scosche SAHY651

Why I chose what I chose

So several reasons. I have always enjoyed the sound quality of the entry level Infinity systems. Another reason is that these speakers are very efficient at 93db, that means that it will not take much power in order to get a lot of volume from them, and as I am using the stock head unit this is particularly important. third reason is that these speakers are rated 3 ohm and should squeeze as much power out of the stock head unit while not over stressing that unit. The speaker harness was hard to identify for the new AD generation but I have verified that, at least with the value edition, you will need the Metra 72-7302. last but not least the Scosche SAHY651 brackets should give the proper amount of stand off to give clearance inside of the door panel.

I will update with installation procedures, pictures, and my experiences as I go!
Sent from my Galaxy S8 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am replacing the components however it will be a little bit different. If you have never messed with components then you may not know that they should always come with some sort of crossover to separate the appropriate frequencies for each speaker, as in filter out the highs to the mid woofer and filter out the lows to the tweeter. How the factory does that is a bit of a mystery to me at this time, but most likely they are sending full range to the woofer and using some sort of bass blocker resister going to the tweeters.

What I plan on doing, as of right now, is disconnecting the stock tweeter wire, and pulling the full frequency signal off the woofer connection, and taking that to the new Infinity crossover, which then breaks out the signal to the new woofer and tweeter. Doing it this way I will have to figure out how to route a new speaker wire from the crossover up to the new tweeter, but that shouldn't be very difficult.

I'm currently on a holding pattern as I wait for my METRA speaker adapters to come in. Then it should be smooth sailing!
 

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I was looking at some Pioneer speakers for replacements. And I'm wondering if it's just easier to leave the factory tweeter in place and just install 3-way or 4-way speakers in the front and rear?

I read that the tweeter just uses a capacitor to remove the low frequencies.

It's either that or I get the Pioneer separate tweeter and woofer for the front door. And the 3-way/4-way speakers for the rear doors. But it would be cheaper for me to put the 3-way/4-way speakers all around.

I'll just be going to BestBuy for the speakers and installation. The days of me installing my own stuff is long gone. I used to do it in the early 80's to mid 90's. But stopped with the car I got in 1997 and had BestBuy install the head unit and speakers in that car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
not really sure what you mean about 3 and 4 way speakers. I don't know of ANY 4 way speakers, and only 3 way speakers I know of are usually 6x9 with mid tweeter and super tweeter.

What I assume you are talking about are 2 way coaxial speakers, and yes that would easily be the simplest thing to do, just disconnect the stock tweeter and only go with coaxial.

If all that you are doing is replacing the speakers..... I cannot emphasize how easy it is to replace yourself. no joke. one screw for the door panel, 4 screws for the speaker and assembly. add in a METRA 72-7302 harness and you dont even need to splice any wire.

I haven't shopped pioneer, but pay particular attention to the efficiency rating of the speakers. It's super important especially with an under powered stock amp. More efficiency means it takes less power to drive them to higher levels. Infinity's that I got are 93dB, most speakers are around 85-88 dB and that is actually a huge difference if you know anything about acoustics. for the same power, a 93 dB speaker would be roughly twice as loud as a 85dB speaker, and increasing beyond that is an exponential demand of power output from your amp, no linear. so it Suuuuuper important with the low power that we have to deal with from stock head units.
 

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I'm thinking about a simple speaker replacement for my Limited/Ult. Have done this in other cars and found the biggest issue is often just removing the trim (in this case door trim) to access the speakers. I may be dense but it's not obvious to me how the front door panels come off in the 2017+. The only web videos I've found are for earlier years.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its SUUUUUUUUUUPER easy. one hidden screw in the inside door handle cup. 2 pop rivets holding on the small plastic piece in the corner, and then pop off the door panel from the bottom with the rest of the friction rivets. Disconnect the quick release for the wire harness and the door latch a vavoom! Its off!

This is not my video but I have verified it is the same steps as mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tried to upload the Crutchfield instructruction PDF but the file is too large :-(. Its 3mb but the limit here is 1mb
 

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not really sure what you mean about 3 and 4 way speakers. I don't know of ANY 4 way speakers, and only 3 way speakers I know of are usually 6x9 with mid tweeter and super tweeter.

What I assume you are talking about are 2 way coaxial speakers, and yes that would easily be the simplest thing to do, just disconnect the stock tweeter and only go with coaxial.

If all that you are doing is replacing the speakers..... I cannot emphasize how easy it is to replace yourself. no joke. one screw for the door panel, 4 screws for the speaker and assembly. add in a METRA 72-7302 harness and you dont even need to splice any wire.

I haven't shopped pioneer, but pay particular attention to the efficiency rating of the speakers. It's super important especially with an under powered stock amp. More efficiency means it takes less power to drive them to higher levels. Infinity's that I got are 93dB, most speakers are around 85-88 dB and that is actually a huge difference if you know anything about acoustics. for the same power, a 93 dB speaker would be roughly twice as loud as a 85dB speaker, and increasing beyond that is an exponential demand of power output from your amp, no linear. so it Suuuuuper important with the low power that we have to deal with from stock head units.
Pioneer has some 3-way and 4-way coaxial speakers. They have a woofer, midrange, and tweeter drivers. And then a super tweeter for the four-way.
Here is a 4-way
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TA1686R/Pioneer-TS-A1686R.html?search=TSA1686R&skipvs=T

here is a 3-way
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Abnq9...BVkVLKI071-8pdhB0ue1sOfiN0w24NWQaAny3EALw_wcB

But now I'm looking at some Kicker 2-way speakers instead. But I'm finding conflicting sizing info from multiple sites

Some sites say that a 6.75" speaker is needed and some say it's 6.5".

Do you know which is the correct speaker size for the openings in the 2018 Elantras?

I was looking at the Pioneer speakers because they had a higher sensitivity rating of 91dB and a lower bass response. But the Kickers were recommended by two car installation shops I visited. But they have a sensitivity rating of 90dB(but still a low bass response). And the reviews seems to be very good for the Kicker speakers. But I'm not sure how well it will work in the ELantra.
 

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I might just go with the infinity 2-way speaker you referenced in the first post. And put those in the front and rear doors. And leave the stock tweeter in place. Although I'm not sure if I even need to bother with the rear door speakers. because right now they don't really contribute much. And 99% of what I hear is from the front speakers.

EDIT: ??? More confusion. The Infinity site says that the PR6502IS doesn't fit the Elantra.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pioneer has some 3-way and 4-way coaxial speakers. They have a woofer, midrange, and tweeter drivers. And then a super tweeter for the four-way.
Here is a 4-way
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TA1686R/Pioneer-TS-A1686R.html?search=TSA1686R&skipvs=T

here is a 3-way
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Abnq9...BVkVLKI071-8pdhB0ue1sOfiN0w24NWQaAny3EALw_wcB

But now I'm looking at some Kicker 2-way speakers instead. But I'm finding conflicting sizing info from multiple sites

Some sites say that a 6.75" speaker is needed and some say it's 6.5".

Do you know which is the correct speaker size for the openings in the 2018 Elantras?

I was looking at the Pioneer speakers because they had a higher sensitivity rating of 91dB and a lower bass response. But the Kickers were recommended by two car installation shops I visited. But they have a sensitivity rating of 90dB(but still a low bass response). And the reviews seems to be very good for the Kicker speakers. But I'm not sure how well it will work in the ELantra.
.....I stand corrected. I have never in my life heard of 3 way 6.5 inch let alone 4 way! That's insane........ and frankly pointless. Those frequency response numbers make no sense. they go up to 38khz and 40 khz. Human hearing at its best typically top out at 20khz. I'm a pilot and have to have my hearing checked yearly. I have very good hearing at almost 40 and my sensitivity threshold peaks at around 16.5k-17k. Most songs would never use anything above 10k. For reference, the highest note on a piano is only 4.2khz. Those Pioneer's are basically speakers for dogs! X-D

As for the Kickers, local shops are of course going to tell you to buy Kickers........ because they sell Kickers. That being said I remember a set of Kicker door speakers that my buddy had back in the day and they sounded very nice. Also I would say that anything over 90dB sensitivity is acceptable, but the more the better.

6.5 and 6.75 are usually interchangeable.... usually. I got the 6.5, and I will let you know for sure when I finally get my Metra speaker wire adapters in and can finally install them.

When I bought from Crutchfield they send free speaker bracket adapter that is supposed to fit the stock screw holes, and give you enough stand off to allow the depth of the speaker to not interfere with the window.

Lastly, IF depth became an issue, and you didn't care about destroying the old stock speakers, you can actually cut them out of the stock bracket and then mount your new speaker into the stock adapter. This would of course destroy the stock speaker but if you don't care, then its totally an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I might just go with the infinity 2-way speaker you referenced in the first post. And put those in the front and rear doors. And leave the stock tweeter in place. Although I'm not sure if I even need to bother with the rear door speakers. because right now they don't really contribute much. And 99% of what I hear is from the front speakers.

EDIT: ??? More confusion. The Infinity site says that the PR6502IS doesn't fit the Elantra.
I think that is a very acceptable solution. Coaxial is so much easier if you just dont want to bother with figuring out the tweeter.

Also right about the rear, you wont notice that nearly as much as replacing the fronts.

lastly, ignore Infinity's fitment guide. It sucks. They really don't update it. Crutchfield says they will fit, so they will fit. They have much better R&D. but if you want to wait, once again I will confirm with my install here shortly.
 

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Ha, hear guys brag their amps are flat from 20 to 20 KHz, my best scope is flat from DC to 500MHz. Lowest note on a piano is 27.5Hz, but not a 27.5Hz waveform but a series of 150Hz pulses at a 27.5Hz rate. For those that love a pounding ear breaking bass, that frequency is also at 150Hz, if you really want to hear 30Hz, listen to a 32' pipe organ.


AM radio has a bandwidth from 50 to 5KHz, FM is 50 to 15KHz, but anything above 5KHz is more like a hssss sound.


Bass frequencies are ohmnidirectional meaning your ear can't tell where the source is from, installing two large woofers in a stereo system is a waste of money, one reason why subwoofers became popular still a woofer, the sub comes in, in a box that can be located under a coffee table. Got an audio magazine evaluating a long list of subwoofers, most had a cutoff frequency of 100Hz, designed and built a 12db 100Hz low pass filter, when applying a whole host of different types of music, didn't hear anything from it except for a 32' Bach organ piece.



Really can't find more liars than in the audio field, on the contrary tweeters are very directional, applying 7KHz, sound lever drastically changes just by moving your head sideways.



In regards to sound levels anything above 85db will wreck your ears, but if you look at the spec of a 6" speaker, will output 110db at 1KHz at one meter distance with only 1 watt applied. Typical automobile will have an ambient noise of 65-70db so forget about a 90db dynamic range as advertised, more like 15-20db if you want to avoid paying for an hearing aid.



In replacing OEM speakers, the DC resistance has to be equal or greater than the OEM speakers or will toast your radio. Size is key, that outer low window weather strip is suppose to eliminate water from dripping in the inside of the door, but all doors have drain holes. Your speakers have to be within a weather proof housings. Airbags kicked out the dash speakers, only place left are the doors.


Again tweeters are very directional, have your doctor move your ears to your ankles. More speakers are better right? Ever hear of acoustical phase distortion. Every wavelength is different, some will add together giving you twice the volume, others will completely cancel each other out, others are in between someplace.



Just some basics.
 

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Another thing to remember is that the openings in the door are not round, so if you got the 4-way speakers, depending on where the mounting screws are, you might have one of those smaller speakers hidden behind plastic, sending sound to nowhere. If there are 3-ways that fit, they're more likely to be able to send the sound out through the speaker grille.
 

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.....I stand corrected. I have never in my life heard of 3 way 6.5 inch let alone 4 way! That's insane........ and frankly pointless. Those frequency response numbers make no sense. they go up to 38khz and 40 khz. Human hearing at its best typically top out at 20khz. I'm a pilot and have to have my hearing checked yearly. I have very good hearing at almost 40 and my sensitivity threshold peaks at around 16.5k-17k. Most songs would never use anything above 10k. For reference, the highest note on a piano is only 4.2khz. Those Pioneer's are basically speakers for dogs! X-D

As for the Kickers, local shops are of course going to tell you to buy Kickers........ because they sell Kickers. That being said I remember a set of Kicker door speakers that my buddy had back in the day and they sounded very nice. Also I would say that anything over 90dB sensitivity is acceptable, but the more the better.

6.5 and 6.75 are usually interchangeable.... usually. I got the 6.5, and I will let you know for sure when I finally get my Metra speaker wire adapters in and can finally install them.

When I bought from Crutchfield they send free speaker bracket adapter that is supposed to fit the stock screw holes, and give you enough stand off to allow the depth of the speaker to not interfere with the window.

Lastly, IF depth became an issue, and you didn't care about destroying the old stock speakers, you can actually cut them out of the stock bracket and then mount your new speaker into the stock adapter. This would of course destroy the stock speaker but if you don't care, then its totally an option.
Both of the installers I talked to mentioned cutting out the old speaker. And what they said made sense. That most people would never reuse the old speaker when getting the replacements speakers I talked about. Since the install costs exceed the cost of the speaker pair. So they said it's much easier to cut out the old speaker, put the new speaker there, and leave it there forever. And then it also save the cost of a bracket.
 

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Another thing to remember is that the openings in the door are not round, so if you got the 4-way speakers, depending on where the mounting screws are, you might have one of those smaller speakers hidden behind plastic, sending sound to nowhere. If there are 3-ways that fit, they're more likely to be able to send the sound out through the speaker grille.
Yes, I noticed yesterday that the openings blocked part of the speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Both of the installers I talked to mentioned cutting out the old speaker. And what they said made sense. That most people would never reuse the old speaker when getting the replacements speakers I talked about. Since the install costs exceed the cost of the speaker pair. So they said it's much easier to cut out the old speaker, put the new speaker there, and leave it there forever. And then it also save the cost of a bracket.
This is true, and something that I thought about also but for some stubborn reason I'm really trying to do EVERYTHING without any permanent modifications. That's one good thing about buying speakers that are less than $100 a pair, you don't really feel bad about leaving them with your car when you sell. I sold my last car with a pair of $500 Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1's and it killed me. If that is the route that you plan on going here is a crappy video with some good visuals to help you get an idea about how that will work.

 
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