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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all - New problem. Hooray.

I hadn't run my car in several weeks and 5 or 6 wires (or wire bundles - I guess some were wrapped together) had been chewed completely through by a mouse or vole or chipmunk.
My cats love to catch them alive, and release them under the parked cars in our driveway. Perhaps also rodents are drawn to the copper or metal out of a dietary need. Or they're tryng to make a nest under my hood, or they're just **** that my cat trapped them up in there and are taking their revenge ... :grin:

Anyway - the mechanic did save the wires to prove to me they were chewed (thereby the repair was not under warranty, sadly. $350!) Bite marks on the rubber sheathing and rough chewed off ends, not a clean cut.

The "check engine/transmission" light was off when we drove it home - great.
But we discovered they had missed one wire - for the hood alarm. Not wanting to pay their prices,
we soldered and wrapped it ourselves - no problem.
But now the "check engine" light is back on.

Could we have not made a complete connection with our homemade repair? I would think that since they missed that wire,
the "check engine" light would have still been on when we were leaving the repair shop. But no.

So I wanted to take our car to AutoZone and have them do a complimentary code check - to see if it could narrow down which wires are chewed, if that is indeed the problem.

But we would also need a complete diagram of where all the wires are, so we can repair it ourselves.
Do anybody have a link? I have a membership with that official Repair Bulletin site y'all recommend frequently,
but can't find a simple wiring guide.


Also - while I'm at it - the mechanic recommended stuffing a few clothes dryer sheets under the hood to deter rodents.
I have often heard of this ploy for deer, mice and rabbits in gardens, etc...
but had dismissed it as an Old Wives Tale,
and considered the floral smell of some sheets might actually ATTRACT mice ...
but I'm so desperate, I am willing to try it, if others tell me they've had success.
 

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Codes:

PO447

"EVAP (evaporative emission system) purge/vent solenoid circuit condition"

Probable cause:

  • purge or vent solenoids defective (stuck open or shut)
  • Check connector and wiring
  • Fuel saturated vapor canister
  • Failed EVAP vent solenoid

PO455

"The ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP system during a system monitor test"

Probable cause:


  • defective, loose or missing fuel cap
  • EVAP canister broke, hose cracked or not connected
  • Purge or vent solenoid defective
  • Vacuum leak at engine

This is frustrating.
I checked the gas cap and it did seem a bit loose can't be sure,
and had the guy "clear" the codes. Then started car again and the Malfunction Indicator Light stayed OFF.
Great.

But when I got it home, I turned it off and on again to double check, and the indicator light is now staying on again.

I wonder what the mouse could have chewed in the EVAP - Exhaust system.

Does a Sante Fe even HAVE a vapor canister? The dude tried to tell me some cars have a charcoal can to control the exhaust vapors ...

???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lines chewed aren't covered under any warranty.

I was also informed that soldering that one chewed wire ourselves withOUT disconnecting the car battery could have caused damage to ... all sorts of things due to the voltage of the soldering iron running through systems.

Ugh.

Could that have damaged just the code reading circuitry, thereby giving wacky code readings that aren't actually problems with my car?

I did read on another model forum that folks who had these codes had simply damaged threads on their gas caps, and once repaired, it took several drives with the car before the indicator stopped coming on - it eventually went away and the indicator light stayed off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Stopped into yet a 3rd diagnostic shop and they kindly told me that if you fix the problem, it still
may be up to 15 re-starts of your car for the Indicator light to quit staying on.

Hmmm. I re-started it 20 times after re-affixing the gas cap and it didn't solve my problem. Crap.
 

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I'll just keep replying to myself, 'guess. :unsure:

There is also this: Right before the indicator light came on - we had filled about $10 bucks worth of gas at a station that had a diesel fuel leak, and where we were standing the fumes from the spill made hubby nauseated.

I wonder if simply the sensor got a big ol' snootful of the fumes from that and it hasn't cleared from the system yet? It's been about 24 hours since that fill up.
 

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First - check to see if your HOMEOWNER'S insurance will cover this. Had a friend with a T 4-Runner with a chewed harness (squirrels) and wound up having it covered that way.

As for the full docs...

You need to sign up at www.hmaservice.com and use that resource for wiring diagrams. A few are a bit generic, but mostly you can find what you need there. The account is free and well worth checking out.
 

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The fabric softener solution works for my camper, in the sense that we haven't had any rodents so far. But we also haven't had any snakes, wolverines or dolphins either, so it doesn't really prove anything.

In my experience there is only one solution that works beyond a reasonable doubt. :grin:

 

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The easiest way to see if you've fixed the problem is to have the codes cleared and see if they come back in a reasonable amount of time. If not, chances are you've fixed the issue.
 

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canderson - Ah, yep - hmaservice.com - that's what I was trying to recall - I have a membership - I already did print out the diagrams and limited photos they had there. All those Acronyms! DTC, MIL, CAN, OBC, OEM, CCV, PCVM! Took me forever to decipher the tech talk.
I still haven't figured out CAN - I think it means a type of diagnostic method ... anyhoozle ...

Interesting tip about Homeowner's Ins. - thanks!

Tech Service Bulletin 06-30-004 actually shows which parts are made out of rubber, steel or hard plastic,
so that might help zero in on which areas to look at for chewing damage.
I gather rodents don't bother with steel. ^_^


I'm beginning to feel that if we're going to go the route of self-fixing more often, paying the $100 or so for a Sante Fe Service Manual is worth the price. I assume that would have detailed clear photos as well as readily accessable diagrams.

Heads up for anyone thinking of getting a mid-level Diagnostic Tester - Walmart has a decent one marked down $25:
$74, was $98.73 --

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Innova-3100-CanO...indingMethod=rr

My local Walmart has that one stocked with the original price, so the manager informed me that if I printed out the online price, they would honor it.

Am going to go buy it today - so I can clear my own codes and do future diagnosing. That particular model comes with a disk, USB cable, and ability to upgrade online, large screen .... seems a cut above the 40-50 dollar models.


Online they also offer a simpler model but still has the disk: $42.54, was: $59.00 --

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Innova-3030-CanO...Reader/13029622


Don - Heh! ^_^ I actually set those a few days ago in my attic, where we have rodent trouble as well.
I can't place them outside, due to my dogs and cats milling about.
What's so aggravating is - having cats ostensibly should help solve my wire chewing issue, since the two I have are such great mousers, :cat: but they have gotten into the habit of not killing their catches and retreating to under our parked cars to release their prey, where the little buggers I suspect end up jumping up into the undercarrage to escape.
Then they do their damage.
I've tried parking in different spots, but the cats adjust. :p

lovemysantefe - Yea, I had AutoZone clear it twice yesterday, and the MIL still came back on after the second restarts following. That's partly why I want to have my own code reader - so I can clear it myself after doing self-fixes.
I also restarted it 20 times in a row, just to see if the one fella's idea might work - ie. "clearing" the computer, or whatever.
Didn't work. Which probably means whatever the problem is, it's not fixed.

I'll buy that code reader and an automobile examination mirror to help look in tight places, and we'll have a real good look underneath today.

My husband thinks the one fella's idea that a soldering iron could damage circuitry is total bunk - because the working end of the iron is simply heat, not current, not voltage.
He does think there's a marginal chance the heat itself could damage something, but not what we're experiencing. So he doesn't think the codes are from a damaged electrical system or anything.
 

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QUOTE (Nittany Lioness @ Jun 29 2010, 10:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=337120
I still haven't figured out CAN - I think it means a type of diagnostic method
NOPE -- Communication Area Network... PCM/TCM, ESC/ABS, and other modules can talk each other to verify everthing is ok.. have certain PCM trouble, we will cut ties to ESC/ABS as engine data incorrect.. Some modules you will find CAN bus codes related to DTC trouble item..




Tech Service Bulletin 06-30-004 actually shows which parts are made out of rubber, steel or hard plastic,
so that might help zero in on which areas to look at for chewing damage.
I gather rodents don't bother with steel. ^_^

lovemysantefe - Yea, I had AutoZone clear it twice yesterday, and the MIL still came back on after the second restarts following.
Yep, fault is present in 2 consecutive key cycles (2 trip detect)

My husband thinks the one fella's idea that a soldering iron could damage circuitry is total bunk - because the working end of the iron is simply heat, not current, not voltage.
Correct, out in the shop, we use butane fired

So he doesn't think the codes are from a damaged electrical system or anything.
Uh, you dont know that... DTC is a problem in a particular circuit,, be it open, short, data not meet result that should occur when particular component operated..
I just went around with an '07 with a 0456... assist had me spinning my wheels.

Might have more later, we supposed to drop Kia Sedona at dealer for install of SOP's from last visit, 5yr/60 ran out couple days after we dropped for list of items to do under warranty..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Follow-up in case anyone is hooked on my mouse-drama. :lurk:

It took less than 5 seconds under the carriage to find yet another wire bundle chewed completely through.
This time it was at the base of the orange plastic connector to the canister; part of the EVAP Emission system,
just like the trouble code indicated.

We had to solder a little extra section of copper wiring to give us enough length to re-solder the line itself, since it was in such an awkward position (had to remove a scrape plate for the canister assembly area).

Anyway - after fixing, we cleared the codes with our new handy-dandy reader from Walmart,
and started the car back up several times, and test-drove it.

Looks like that did the trick! All systems are go, until another wire gets chewed. :p

It feels really good to have resources and forums like this to bounce ideas off of, while attempting to fix things yourself,
instead of worrying about getting skunked at garages. Well, I suppose we did get a bit skunked at the initial dealership mechanic's $350 dollar bill for the initial handful of wires he repaired,
but he did have time into finding the problem and then all the wires he fixed ... so at $75 an hour,
with no real part cost ... mmmm, yea that I find is still a bit steep.
Let's say 1 hour to discover problem, half hour each for 5-6 wires ... eh, $260 sounds more fair. Oh, wait there was the towing.
Well, anyway - now we know better what to look for, and we'll be diving into making full use of that code reader -
it came with software and online stuff (fixing suggestion details?) ... which I'm not sure you can access for free :unsure: ... but we havent' really perused it all yet.
 

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I don't know if you said what part of the country you're from, but now that you've got things reconnected, we should probably talk about a "step 2"... really protecting the junctions of the wires that you've reconnected against corrosion. A bit of electrical tape really isn't enough. Now that they're already connected, my own choice would be to daub some RTV (silicone seal) over each of the points of connection until you're back to the straight vinyl jacket of the wire. I'm sure some of the other folks here have some ideas for you as well.
 

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Hmmm, well, we slipped some of that soft plastic sheathing/sleeve over the new connections and used a heat gun to shrink it tight, sealing it. Hubby added electrical tape over that as well, just for good measure.

I live in northwest corner of PA. Get a lot of snow and salt, and dirt from my rural route.
I'm actually more worried about future rodents. I'd have to build a brand new autoport or garage to really seal them out. They keep getting into the one I have, and I've buttoned it up as best I can.

My solution is to get tons more cats. :w00t:
Shock n' Awe, baby. :hyper:
:cat: :cat: :cat: :cat: :cat:
But hubby sure grumbles at that suggestion. He's still blanching at that $1400 vet bill my one had a few months ago. :blink:
 
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