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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 LWB with 76,000 miles, and it just started making a moderately high-pitched metallic noise from the climate control vents when the system is running. I've tried changing the temp way up or way down, and making sure defrost was not on, in order to isolate whether it happens with AC and/or heat working. It seems to happen either way.

I'll check again when my wife gets home tonight, but I don't hear a noise coming from the engine bay (don't think its the serpentine belt or AC bearing). The noise seems to come from the vents or dash only.

Thanks for any ideas on how to figure this out.
 

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Does it vary with the blower motor speed? Does it go away if you turn the HVAC completely off? Does it vary with engine speed? If it is a rotational noise that should help to isolate it.

If it a metallic noise but not rotational and it stops when the HVAC is turned off, check the cabin filter to see if it trapped something that might be flapping around as the air is drawn through.....
 

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Just an idea, check the cabin air filter, it may be rubbing against the fan..

I think it is located behind the glove box.

Rob
 

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Change new blower . Since you said THIS setting, so i assumed blower works just fine when its not in the last two setting of HVAC setting knob, the middle knob between two other knobs.

Definitely A/C compressor belt is abput to be snapped off, or old oil in line or nit enough r134 conpression in system (leaked to near empty).

Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's not blowing cold air. Even though I put the temp down to max low and the fan was blowing full, the air was not cold even after about a minute.

I don't think its the blower motor. The sound does not vary based on the fan speed. Sound also does not vary depending on the temp setting, output area (dash vents, floor vents, defrost, etc), nor does it change depending on whether AC button is pressed, or recirculate or fresh air.

The sound does vary in loudness, but it doesn't seem to be correlated to anything I do...seems to be somewhat random. Even when I sit at idle, or drive at 40 mph, it doesn't have direct correlation to change in loudness.

I'm guessing something is wrong with the freon or the AC unit. I plan to research how to test whether I have any freon left, and if so, how to find the leak. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I bought a couple AC recharge kits from Walmart (the house brand's hose was not long enough to reach low pressure port and still be able to shake the can). Both kits said my pressure was down around 15, even though AC was max low. I emptied one bottle into the system, which got pressure up just barely into green (I think around 25 or 30). The noise has almost entirely gone, and the AC blows cold again. So I've pretty much confirmed the noise and lack of AC was due to low freon.

Still, I don't know why the freon was low. It's got to be a leak. I'll see how long this fix lasts. If it comes back in a few days or a week, I'll know the leak is bad.

By the way, I noticed that the AC unit seems to spin even when the climate control system is off. In other cars, I normally see the AC clutch stop the compressor from spinning with the belt when the AC is off. I'm guessing our car's AC system works differently. This is relevant, because the instructions for these AC recharge kits say to make sure the AC is spinning, and it was a little hard to identify which pulley was the AC unit because it was spinning even when the system was off.
 

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Being educational, not critical......

I generally do not recommend people trying to recharge their own systems. The correct way to do that is to vacuum the system down to remove any moisture that may have gotten in if the system was actually empty. There may also be a lubricant that must be added during a recharge to protect the compressor. Today's systems are often VERY sensitive to overcharge or undercharge. A small amount with way and yes, it may be cold, but it may not be as cold as it should.

My guess is that the system will go down again. I'd really suggest having it checked by a Dealer or A/C specialist that you are comfortable with. Simply refilling it could lead to a far more expensive repair down the road. Back in the day (1970s) I did recharge my own systems due to the cost and me being young and cash strapped. Those old R-12 charged systems were very forgiving compared to today's vehicles......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Being educational, not critical......

I generally do not recommend people trying to recharge their own systems. The correct way to do that is to vacuum the system down to remove any moisture that may have gotten in if the system was actually empty. There may also be a lubricant that must be added during a recharge to protect the compressor. Today's systems are often VERY sensitive to overcharge or undercharge. A small amount with way and yes, it may be cold, but it may not be as cold as it should.

My guess is that the system will go down again. I'd really suggest having it checked by a Dealer or A/C specialist that you are comfortable with. Simply refilling it could lead to a far more expensive repair down the road. Back in the day (1970s) I did recharge my own systems due to the cost and me being young and cash strapped. Those old R-12 charged systems were very forgiving compared to today's vehicles......
Thank you for the advice. I agree...if it goes down again, it's off to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FYI, the noise came back after about 4-5 days. I took it to the dealership, and they found the "A/C liquid suction line and discharge line" was leaking. They replaced, and recharged with freon. $636 total.

I'm guessing it was caused by the cold starts when we were back in Wisconsin over christmas. Several mornings, it was about -10 degrees F when we started the car. I could hear a groaning noise from the engine compartment for the first 30 secs. I'm guessing this was the AC system trying to circulate freon while the system was so cold. Just my guess.
 

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Wow, $636, I’m assuming no warranty takes care of that.

The wife and I are buying by a LWB this Wednesday, it’s a CPO, but doubt this would have been covered.
Scary, lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It came out of my pocket. We're at 76k miles and do not have an extended warranty. I'm not too upset about the $ since the car has been very reliable and its the first fix I've had to pay for. The only other issue we had was a front lower control arm bushing needed to be replaced (the front end would "clunk" when we slowly went over a bump. This was at 55k miles, so was covered.
 

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FYI, the noise came back after about 4-5 days. I took it to the dealership, and they found the "A/C liquid suction line and discharge line" was leaking. They replaced, and recharged with freon. $636 total.

I'm guessing it was caused by the cold starts when we were back in Wisconsin over christmas. Several mornings, it was about -10 degrees F when we started the car. I could hear a groaning noise from the engine compartment for the first 30 secs. I'm guessing this was the AC system trying to circulate freon while the system was so cold. Just my guess.
There should be no reason your AC compressor clutch should be engaging when it's that cold out. I'm assuming you didn't have it in full blast AC (with temp control in the blue) when you started the car in -10F. Pretty sure the noise you heard was normal very cold start (any engine sounds horrible when it's that low). Glad you got it fixed but stinks it cost that much. Parts are cheap but the labor, env fees and freon costs a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There should be no reason your AC compressor clutch should be engaging when it's that cold out.
I'm not so sure you're correct. If "Auto" is selected on the climate control, and if the system has chosen defrost, then I think the AC compressor could be running.
 
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