Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 98k miles I had the thermostat, timing belt and water pump replaced for Maintence reasons. After they were all replaced the car over heated I called the shop that did it they said it just had air in the system and needed to be bled so I did that it ran fine, the next day I drove it around a lot of places and it over heated again, so I took it to another shop to make sure the work was done right, they first said the thermostat was wrong so they replaced that but that didnt solve it, theydidn't find a problem said the water pump could be in wrong so I had it towed back to the first shop and they tore it apart and checked everything and ran all test and it still over heats. The head gasket is fine, cylinders are fine, radiator is fine, no leaks, the car is showing everything is fine on it. But it won't stop over heating. I have no money to take it to the dealership.

Has this ever happened to anyone before? Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is wrong with it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,851 Posts
How did you "bleed" the system? How do you know you got all the air out? It's not rocket science, you just need the correct procedure. How did you do it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
remove the bleed screw from the themo stat housing completely. sqush the bottom hose until u get coolant through. put the bleed screw in. cut the bottom of coke place the bottle in the radiator and fill it with coolant and turn your heater on. when u got hot air coming out of the heater vents you have the bleed system right. if u have the cold coming through the vents when you need to bleed the system more. works with any vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,151 Posts
check coolant level. i'm wondering if the screwed the gasket on the water pump install.

forget about paying money, unless there is another unrelated issue that shop has made a mistake. they are liable and must fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
remove the bleed screw from the themo stat housing completely.

USA Elantra does not have "bleed screw"..

None of the USA/Canada models do.. fill them up and run till fan operates at radiator, no special procedures needed

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Answer to questions

the fan kickin fine 2 shops tried to bleed the coolant no leaks, pressure is 18 psi, flushed everything hoses radiator, there are no screws on thermostat, the car fine when stoping n overheating when drive

There is no plugs anywhere.

I am afraid its due to manufacture make, is it possible?????
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
998 Posts
1. do you get heat from the heater?
2. how do you know it overheats?
3. is the whole radiator hot (return and supply)?
4. is the radiator full of coolant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update

So the car is still in the shop they got it to stop over heating without the thermostat, they had to bleed it a lot, it had air in the system. But when they put the thermostat (which is brand new) back in and bled it, it over heated again. So they took the thermostat back out and bled it and it runs fine now. I don't understand why it would over heat with a thermostat that is brand new.

Will my car be okay without a thermostat. I live in Arizona.

Also now the speedometer is not working it stopped working while the man was driving it, he says it is the sensor which is going to cost $116 from autozone but he will put it in for free. But I think the speedometer sensor went bad from them putting so much water and they got it wet but I don't know it doesn't make sense how it could of gotten ruined when it was fine before they worked on the car.

This was all just to prevent the car from having issues and now it is just becoming a headache.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,851 Posts
You're not supposed to run without a thermostat for numerous reasons, but it shouldn't hurt the car in the long run. Did anyone bother checking to see if the radiator is clogged on the inside? Worry about the speed sensor problem later. Water wouldn't hurt it, but it may have a bad connection at the wiring harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Run for short time should be okay, but gas milage will suck.

Engine temperature is what triggers change from open loop rich running warm up mode to closed loop use the O2 sensors, MAF etc efficient mode.

Are we sure car is really overheating, use infrared temp gun to confirm gauge in car is functional.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
998 Posts
Will my car be okay without a thermostat. I live in Arizona.
Yes and No.

Yes, it will run OK, but No, it will take much longer, and on colder days may never reach operating temperature.
As a result you use more fuel, your oil gets diluted with petrol and never gets cleaned (it cleans from petrol when engine gets hot).


But I will repeat the question again, as it seems you decided to not read my post, or at least to not answer it.

How do you know it overheats?


Something tells me that we might deal with something else here...The only difference without thermostat is that (for coolant flow) you get less restrictions, what moves me to water pump.
Other things - the radiator cap, coolant (coolant not water)...
How does it drain (coolant from radiator)? There is drain plug - if it comes out clean and flows OK I would assume the system is not plugged/clogged.



EDIT:
As for bleeding it a lot... I do not get it. I just changed thermostat in my HD Elantra (same engine as XD, same setup) and it took a little to bleed. Slowly pour coolant back to the radiator, took a moment or two to fill up (the jingle was limiting factor), but after started and a little more coolant went in it was just fine. So either there is something wrong with your car or those boys do not know what they are doing.
I have never had any overheating issue in XD (I have had one for over one year) or HD (it is going to be near year now as well).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,151 Posts
the thermostat is what $15 at a dealer? its there for a reason. replace it.

you got a defective one, it happens. take it back and get your money back for the part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I got the car back yesterday and it ran fine. Today I drove it about 20miles and it stop in the middle of the road. I finally got it to run again but it ran really hard so I drove to a spot and parked it and called the mechanic and he came out he said it over heated but the heat gage never moved. He determined the head gasket has blown. He tried saying that was not his fault but he finally took the blame and said he would do the labor but might need us to pay for parts which I don't see is right all these problems are his fault it had no problem before he touched it. I'm so irritated at this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No I replaced the thermostat twice with two different types both brand new and it wouldn't stop over heating and the original wasn't even broke
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
To answer questions I know it's over heating because the guy kept checking the temperature with something you plug into the car and it would be around 210 degrees and today he checked it and the temp was high but my gage never showed it was over heating and the car was completely empty of coolant so it's blowing it out when I drove. He had to pour another gallon of coolant in it and it was boiling out and the bolts on the engine right next to the spark plugs were bubbling out oil.

It's one problem after a next with this car
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
998 Posts
around? How around? 203-205F (95-96C) is normal temp when the fan kicks in.
Therefore, 210F is not overheating yet. It is close, but not so bad.
212F is still OK, 215F and over - you are getting close.

Real overheating begins above 220F (105C). Boiling begins when you pass 230F (110C), but if the coolant is good and radiator cap works fine, the added pressure will prevent coolant from boiling up to 250F (120C). In open atmosphere 50/50 mixture will start boiling at about 233F (112C). Added pressure (about 10-20 PSI) from the radiator cap increases the boiling point.

Whatever he connected... where there any symptoms of overheating??
Symptoms - means gurgling or boiling sound coming from the coolant/engine?
It might be as well faulty temperature sensor. It might read too high...



Now head... well, if it was overheating that is possible that at some point you warped the head or blown the gasket. Easy fix, some labor, but not as bad.

But I would begin with compression test (as mentioned before), check the timing and water pump for slippage. Maybe timing belt is too lose?

Also, when the engine reaches 82C, the thermostat should start opening reaching full open at 95C. At this point the radiator should be all HOT. From the top to the bottom. Both, supply and return hoses should be hot to touch.
And fan should kick in.

Is the thermostat correct?
82C (180F) with bypass valve
Look here
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top