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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do any of you manual drivers have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. What do you think? Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
 

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Don't know, but mine's doing the same thing so I'd like to hear opinions. The odd thing is I lived in IL for a couple years and never had issues during the winters there, but now I live in Texas where it's 20 degrees warmer and I have problems. I just had the trans fluid changed at ~38k miles and it didn't help.
 

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My Maxima used to get finicky when cold. The fluid and the yellow metal compatibility was poor. I went with AMSOil weight for my transmission and the problem went away.

If you are having gate issues I would not replace with OEM fluid but a better fluid that matches the OEM weight and make sure it is yellow metal compatible.
 

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Sounds to me like a dragging clutch - ie the clutch is not disengaging completely when you push it to the floor. Make sure there is nothing under the pedal and that the clutch fluid is full. It will wear out the synchros eventually. Maybe air in the clutch hydraulics or a bad master cylinder.
 

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Sounds to me like a dragging clutch - ie the clutch is not disengaging completely when you push it to the floor. Make sure there is nothing under the pedal and that the clutch fluid is full. It will wear out the synchros eventually. Maybe air in the clutch hydraulics or a bad master cylinder.
While I would agree this should be looked at to be for sure; a dragging clutch usually affects first more than second and would affect almost all gear engagements. Cold and poor lubrication tend to show worn parts more noticeably.
 

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If the transmission shifts normally when it's warmed up, I don't believe you have a problem. All manual transmission vehicles I have ever driven were stubborn shifting when cold. Lots of drag on the innards when fluid is nearly frozen. I would start worrying if the symptoms stick around when it's warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE: Sometimes it's not as bad when it's 28 degrees outside and sometimes it's worse when it's 35. Very strange. Fifth gear also feels a bit weird. All gears feel notchy if not perfectly shifted. Took it to the dealer yesterday…mechanic said it might be the clutch is worn out without even looking at it. He said there might be an inspection hole to look at the clutch (is that true???) It was cold yesterday but they didn't have a chance to look at it all day since they were busy. Well it's in the 60's today so the problem might disappear and they might not find anything wrong. Grrr. Don't think the clutch is worn out only at 25500 miles because I baby that puppy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also when it got to the teens…it was really hard to shift from neutral to first, reverse and second while at idle when first started. This is even after 5 minutes when the idle speed dropped to 1250 rpms from a high of 2000 for the first minute or so. After warming for 15-20 minutes, I can shift to reverse to back out.

I didn't put it on a lift yet to test if wheels move but car doesn't lurch forward while in gear with clutch stepped (disengaged).
 

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Also when it got to the teens…it was really hard to shift from neutral to first, reverse and second while at idle when first started. This is even after 5 minutes when the idle speed dropped to 1250 rpms from a high of 2000 for the first minute or so. After warming for 15-20 minutes, I can shift to reverse to back out.

I didn't put it on a lift yet to test if wheels move but car doesn't lurch forward while in gear with clutch stepped (disengaged).
Idling doesn't really warm up trans fluid. Driving does. You will get some thermal transfer from the engine but not like warming up by having the car be in motion.

Given what you said here, I am leaning more towards what MikeyTG said. Get the clutch/hydrolics looked at by someone REPUTABLE. It could be master/slave cylinder issue and thats way cheaper than replacing clutch discs.
 
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