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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
My car is an Elantra 2012 1.6.
the car has 115000 km. it started hesitating when accelerating. no check engine light.
I changed the sparks. it was ok for a couple of days but the symptoms came back again but intermittent.
I check the ignetion sparks using multimeter all plugs are within parameters.
I connect my OBD scanner and I noticed that the MAPS reading are 9 inHg in idle. is this normal? what is the reading in idle?
I tried the hyundai online service manual but I couldn't find the value.

any ideas.
 

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Hi,
My car is an Elantra 2012 1.6.
the car has 115000 km. it started hesitating when accelerating. no check engine light.
I changed the sparks. it was ok for a couple of days but the symptoms came back again but intermittent.
I check the ignetion sparks using multimeter all plugs are within parameters.
I connect my OBD scanner and I noticed that the MAPS reading are 9 inHg in idle. is this normal? what is the reading in idle?
I tried the hyundai online service manual but I couldn't find the value.

any ideas.
I'm not sure if the reading is barometer or vacuum. Some interpret as a vacuum and some as actual barometric. I believe you are barometric as it would be around 18" of vacuum under normal conditions.Barometric conversion is to take reading of atmosphere (key on engine off) and subtract output from that to get vacuum. If it were actual vacuum I'm not sure it would even run at 9". What does it read with key on and engine off?
 

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It will be in psi. Normal sea level atmosphere is around 14.69 psi, so 9 psi is vacuum territory. Inches of Mercury standard sea level pressure is 29.92, this generally is from a sensor inside the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys.
I finally found the nominal reading in the service manual. mine reads 36 Kpa or 5.22 psi on idle.
the service manual states it should be in the range of (2.9-14.7 psi) depending on voltage.
Here is where I am at now:
sparks ok.
ignition sparks primary and secondary: ok.
MAPS: ok. using OBD only not actually testing voltages.

will a contaminated fuel filter make the car hesitate when accelerating?
 

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Thanks guys.
I finally found the nominal reading in the service manual. mine reads 36 Kpa or 5.22 psi on idle.
the service manual states it should be in the range of (2.9-14.7 psi) depending on voltage.
Here is where I am at now:
sparks ok.
ignition sparks primary and secondary: ok.
MAPS: ok. using OBD only not actually testing voltages.

will a contaminated fuel filter make the car hesitate when accelerating?
Fuel filter will be more problematic under load and not at idle or light throttle.

If not been done in a while I would clean the TB and IAC.
 

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I'm not sure if the reading is barometer or vacuum.
WHAT!

A guy with the experience you claim to have doesn't know what the 'A' in MAP means.

grcauto said:
Some interpret as a vacuum and some as actual barometric.
Your confusing gauge and absolute pressures here.

A MAP data pid really has to display absolute pressure, since that's what the 'A' stands for, and that's why the sensors are called Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors.

I think you should pack your gear and go on a camping trip :laugh:
 

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WHAT!

A guy with the experience you claim to have doesn't know what the 'A' in MAP means.


Your confusing gauge and absolute pressures here.

A MAP data pid really has to display absolute pressure, since that's what the 'A' stands for, and that's why the sensors are called Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors.



You've never seen PID's of actual vs calculated? I explained it below. You guys on the other side of the pond need to expand your horizons. 0:)


I think you should pack your gear and go on a camping trip :laugh:
LOL,,,,,Maybe I should.
 

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Yes, but a even a calculated MAP value is still an absolute pressure. It's MAP so it can't be anything else.
I ABSOLUTELY understand......You've just never seen the ones that were calculated and the PID needed to be calculated back to determine ACTUAL vacuum you were viewing. IE. Actual atmosphere is 28"hg.....in calculated PID shows 9"hg....vacuum is 19"hg......Now what was really fun was looking at voltage pid.....After looking at the different ones you get used to it....Here in the great old US of A where everyone has to do things their way we had one manufacturer do pid in actual and the next says....."we can't do it that way....that's the way those guys over there are doing it". So they have to calculate so the PID is different from "Those guys over there".....
It was this kind of back and forth that caused the government to step in and make standards that called for terminology and pid standards so us poor guys trying to work on different manufacturer models could spend less time in the manuals and more time fixing the problem.
You Brits are much smarter than us in the us.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Fuel filter will be more problematic under load and not at idle or light throttle.

If not been done in a while I would clean the TB and IAC.
Actually this is part of the problem when ever I climb a hill the car feels sluggish and hard to accelerate, the gearbox shifts down and it will barely do 80 km/h at 4500 rpm.

What is TB and IAC? I am guessing: throttle body and intake air something....?
please clarify, English is not my first language and I am having trouble with all these shorthand notations.

Any links on cleaning procedure and materials.

will a pressure test on the fuel line reveal if I have a clogged fuel filter?

thanks
 

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Actually this is part of the problem when ever I climb a hill the car feels sluggish and hard to accelerate, the gearbox shifts down and it will barely do 80 km/h at 4500 rpm.

What is TB and IAC? I am guessing: throttle body and intake air something....?
please clarify, English is not my first language and I am having trouble with all these shorthand notations.

Any links on cleaning procedure and materials.

will a pressure test on the fuel line reveal if I have a clogged fuel filter?

thanks
If there's an external fuel filter I would say just replace it.

I think your's is part of the pump and sender unit. To verify we attach a fuel pressure gauge to windshield and drive....going uphill the pressure drops....time for new pump assembly....you are not likely to have a pressure gauge with long hose to attach to windshield. If it's the original pump I would guess you would do well to just replace it if you are not able to test with pressure gauge.
You are correct that TB is the throttle body and IAC is the idle air control. The IAC opens and closes to achieve desired idle. When TB gets gummed up it can cause problems with the butterfly from closing all the way which allows for air to go through when it should be completely closed. This makes it hard for the computer to use the IAC to control idle and will cause you kinds of problems at low speed and idle. Fuel pressure can also cause problems as well. Either way it'll be a good idea to clean the TB and IAC.
 

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The filter is in the gas tank together with the fuel pump ;( it's a pain to change . I asked my dealer they said it's a "lifetime " part so no change necessary .

https://youtu.be/6bRA0k5wzJ4

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
They are considered lifetime because they will seldom get stopped up before the pump fails.....So it's more of they are for the lifetime of the pump. A pressure test is in order. Pump is probably starting to fail.
 
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