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No, something not right about that. 46'F is about 7'C which would be the ambient temperature. Obviously the PCM wouldn't know what the ambient temperature is if the sensor is disconnected.

This is a generic OBD scan tool your using and not something more advanced with Hyundai specific software? If you are using manufacturer software you may be seeing a substitute value. You want to view the generic OBD data list.
 

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Your scan tool must be getting it's air temperature data from the boost pressure sensor then, which isn't quite right.

Your wiring so far seems to match the diagram for the analog sensor, so it looks like the wire colours perform the same functions. They just connect to different terminals on the digital sensor. So that would make the white wire the MAF signal and you could try using the scan tool again to confirm.

The MAF signal on a digital sensor is a ground pulse that pulls the 5V on the wire to ground. So set the scan tool up to view the MAF sensor output then simulate the sensor output pulses by repeatedly touching the white wire quickly on & off ground. When you do that the MAF value on the scan tool should change.

If that confirms white is the MAF signal (terminal 5) I think it would be safe to assume pink is the IAT signal (terminal 3) and the wire that is left (blue) must be the MAF ref (terminal 4).
 

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Discussion Starter #25
everything you said to try has worked, mill light stayed off after clearing code, just rest of engine to work on now, thank you very much for your help.
 

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Glad everything worked-out...can I ask what happened, stolen...vandalized?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
it would not start a few weeks ago , when it tried to start sounded like it was misfiring black smoke from exhaust . phoned the AA after about 20 mins tried again started and no problems for 2 weeks. went to start up and same again, without the misfiring and black smoke. it was as if no fuel was getting to the engine, so changed electric fuel pump high pressure fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors with good secondhand ones , and a new battery, and new sensors on fuel rail, damaged the maf plug when checking it all, so at least that bit is ok now, going to triple check timing and make sure no 1 cylinder is where it is suppose to be, after that it will be a pressure test on the cylinders. sorry it's a bit long winded :sleep:
 

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it would not start a few weeks ago , when it tried to start sounded like it was misfiring black smoke from exhaust
Jeez, you've mention just about everything else but you didn't mention checking the EGR valve. With it struggling to start, rough running and black smoke, the EGR valve would have been the first thing I'd have looked at.
 

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I'm not familiar with the setup on your engine but what I usually do with this type of fault is loosen one of the flanges in the EGR system and slip a bit of card (cereal box) into the gap to block the flow of exhaust gas into the inlet manifold. If that helps I know I'm dealing with an EGR leak. An EGR leak isn't always caused by carbon. The valve could be open for some other reason. A weak return spring in the valve or a leaking vacuum control solenoid being a couple of examples. And there doesn't need to be much of an opening in the EGR valve of a diesel engine for it to have a significant effect on engine performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
took car foe a run goes into limp mode but no engine fault light on, put obd reader on and the P0101 is a pending code ?
 

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How did it run before dropping into limp mode? Did blocking the EGR make it start & run better? Less smoke?

The MAF sensor is used to provide feedback about the operation of the EGR system to the PCM. With the system blocked there will be no change in mass air flow when the PCM is commanding the EGR valve open, which might be the cause of the MAF trouble code.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I forgot that I had another egr valve what a garage let me have years ago when they changed the old egr valve, it works %100, there was a bit of blue smoke at first when it warmed up it stopped, then wouldn't accelerate above 3 to 4000 revs ( I think) I wasn't taking much notice, I have an idea that a injector is not seated properly, clear smoke when warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
engine fine no exhaust smoke that's bad, won't rev above 3000rpm and fault code P0101 stays off until engine turned off and then mill light comes on when ignition turned on again, clear fault and same thing all over again , ?
 

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Does it drive any better with the MAF sensor disconnected?
Can you check the boost pressure on your scan tool data list?
With the ignition on/engine off the boost pressure should be equal to atmospheric pressure (approx 1000mb/1bar/14psi).
Next, start the engine and see if the pressure changes with the engine at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
just checked wiring again and I had put 12v orange wire to pin2 nd green 0v to pin 2, changed them round and no fault code pending, so all clear regarding fault codes. the MAP reading is 96 kpa and MAF 0.88 gls with engine not running, MAP 100kpa MAF from 13. to under 14 gls with engine running, no different in engine with MAF connector removed, still won't go above 3000 rpm
 
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