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Discussion Starter #1
How hard is it to replace these I see they bolt into the hub. Then press out the lower control arm. Is the press needed special or just a generic ball joint press?
 

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If so, should be fairly easy. Ball joint separator or sometimes a good solid strike side on to the knuckle and free the shaft.











 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes that is what it looks like. The manual doesn't say much about it. Hopefully I don't have to take the whole lower arm off.

I have the pickle fork and also a Pitman Arm puller.
 

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Yes that is what it looks like. The manual doesn't say much about it. Hopefully I don't have to take the whole lower arm off.

I have the pickle fork and also a Pitman Arm puller.
you should not have too. I have the first tool I listed, works really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I see I can get the whole front end kit for both sides with 10 year warranty for under $100 shipped. Lower arms with the bushings, ball joints, tire rod ends and stabilizer bar links.



 

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I see I can get the whole front end kit for both sides with 10 year warranty for under $100 shipped. Lower arms with the bushings, ball joints, tire rod ends and stabilizer bar links.



Too good to be true category for me
 

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Yes that is what it looks like. The manual doesn't say much about it. Hopefully I don't have to take the whole lower arm off.

I have the pickle fork and also a Pitman Arm puller.
I just did my ball joints and control arms in April. Could not separate the ball joint and control, I tried the pickle fork and hammered the crap out of it, no movement, tried the ball joint separator, nothing.

I ended up removing the bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle, and then removed the ball joint and control arm together, didn’t bother trying to separate them, it was like they were fused together.

FYI my car had about 215,000 kms or 125,000 miles when I changed them and they had never been touched before that.

If I had to do it again, I would probably change the arms with the ball joint, as it ended up being pretty simple, took me about half an hour per side. The hardest part was lining up the frame mounting bolts and getting the new arm in place as it was really tight.

Hope that helps you with your job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Put in the kit yesterday. All bolt in and not too hard to access anything. Took 5 hours with me doing it in the drive way. If I had of put the grease zerks in the ball joints first it would have cut hour off as I had to unbolt them to put the zerks in. :(

All the parts looked to be equal to OE quality. Probably should have done inner tie rod ends as they were pretty floppy.

The OE sway bar links and tie rod ends at 170k were still good! Had to use some heat on the passenger side tire rod end and rear lower arm bolt.

2 day shipping too.

 

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I used air hammer to remove my ball joint. Fork aluminum groved and was useless. Don't have this car anymore. I filmed it but it was so ruff switch I scraped video and did not upload it. A slight bad ball joint was causing alignment to slip and wear out my fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The thing with just changing the ball joint, other than nearly impossible to do, is you still have the worn out front bushing in the arm. Back bushing was in good shape but the front one was quite deformed.
 
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