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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have an 04 2wd 3.5 santa fe and have nothing but issues since we got it, I had just got done replacing the alternator which was the hardest thing I've ever done lol, and then it got a bad shake and wheel jerk so we parked it for last 2mo.
Well an emergency forced us to drive it the other day, so checked all fluids and all was good, we took off.
Drove perfect, no hesitation, rough idle, misfires, it had great power and sounded like new...so about 70 miles down the road without a single issue or warning I just lose power!
Gas it and rpms go up but speed wouldnt.
It was basically like limp mode but no cel or codes thrown at all.
So I take an exit and check everything out, no vac leaks, oils good, air filters good, it's obviously getting fuel and I'm assuming tps is good because I can gas it and it responds like normal but no power.
So I continue messing around and finally I heard a weird loud suckin noise and a gulp after I shut off the engine.
Was the radiator, it did it several times like it was suckling air and then moving coolant.
So I drained it, pulled hoses and tstat. Well tstat is for sure shot, as well as the radiator cap and possibly the overflow cap (not sure if it matters but it basically free spins)
So, obviously I'm going to flush and fix the cooling system but I wondered if a faulty cap or tstat could cause this issue?
Doesn't make sense to me since it was not stuck in any position because my temp stayed perfect. And no codes thrown.
I'm so lost on this issue, battery is good, haven't found any loose connections, Temps good, oils, good, Trans is good, it starts right up and sounds great but when I take off once I hit about 3k it loses speed and rpms go up, have to let off gas to get it to shift and it's a bit hard, I can get to 3rd gear doing this at about 30 mph, won't go any faster.
I thought maybe bad gas or fuel restriction so I tossed some b12 and techron in the tank and reved the **** out of it, let it set, reved, set, repeat...after the 4th time something broke loose and I got loud ping and knocking for about 4 sec then turned to a light tic, then died...started right back up and sounded normal again.
After all that, I take it for a spin again and same thing. It reminds me of what it'd be like to try to take off in a standard Trans in 3rd gear and clutching it...rpms up, speed just a dribble.
I'm not sure what other info I can give...this just randomly happened, doesn't seem to be fuel related because it's def getting gas to Rev it up...don't think it's timing issue because it's not rough or misfiring...not overheating..Idk
...one last th8ng that happened I should mention. Yesterday I went and messed with it more and did a bunch of parked revin and at first it'll Rev up to about 5.5k and bounce back from limit, then the next ten it only goes to 4k ish...it stayed round that for a while then I floored the peel to see if anything changed and heard some pinging so getting detonation I suppose...but rpms don't go up they got jerk and droped...now at about 3k wot and dropping to 2400 then up to 2700 and so forth...
Well I suppose I'll wait for some advice before I go.tearing into it any more.
I've read at least 200 threads and seems it could be a million things but almost all just don't make sense or are conridictions...so maybe se fresh eyes will help.
Thanks in advance guys!
 

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Revs but no go is transmission related most likely. Ever changed the fluid? What does it look like. Oh, and don't rev the engine in park. Not good for it and doesn't really tell you anything. Need a good scanner to see what's up. I bet you have some pending codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do have a scanner and there are no codes pending.
And I'm aware that it's not great to just set and Rev in park but I really didn't have a choice in the troubleshooting of this, it was the logical step. It sat parked for a while so gas, corrosion, rust could have built up and plugged something in the fuel system...so revin it up allowed me to clean the gas and injectors while getting some good info...like the fact the throttle plate responded properly up to a certain point and that only dropped with intensity....and also that if it was transmission related, being in park wouldn't affect the rpms like it did. So that rules out a tranny problem.
And just for piece of mind, Trans fluid is fine like I said in my original post...I checked all obvious stuff.
I know for sure it cannot be a tranny related issue, it's not a fuel delivery issue because the engine gets gas as I press the pedal, when the rpms start being limeted and I give it more gas it begins pinging which shows that the proper amount of fuel is in fact being delivered but I'm guessing air or spark is the lime ting factor and that's causing detonation.

I have a good idea of what causes this type of thing but I'm not very familiar with this car so needed advice from those who were..
Like I said, this act almost identical to limp mode minus a cel...I really find it odd no cel codes threw after all the crazy reving and dying and sputtering it did as well as obviously runnin rich...maybe my ecm is bad and not able to throw a code, I can test that though just pull in the maf or something.
My guess is that it is something electrical, it has to be really....no symptoms whatsoever and nothing leading up to it and besides the no power you can't tell a diff upon starting.
So I'm leaning towards a sensor that has went out, bad harness, split/burnt wire, bad ground on engine or trans, etc I just am not sure what is really where on this thing and what would cause something like this...without throwing a code would suggest no major sensor is or part is out/bad, or that the readings the computer uses to identify said code is being blocked or not being sent correctly from that specific sensor!
I didn't find any bad wires and wiggled everything many times and nothing changed...so maybe a ground somewhere...but it will have to be something that can happen instantly like what happened.
 

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Hi, I have an 04 2wd 3.5 santa fe and have nothing but issues since we got it, I had just got done replacing the alternator which was the hardest thing I've ever done lol, and then it got a bad shake and wheel jerk so we parked it for last 2mo.
Well an emergency forced us to drive it the other day, so checked all fluids and all was good, we took off.
Drove perfect, no hesitation, rough idle, misfires, it had great power and sounded like new...so about 70 miles down the road without a single issue or warning I just lose power!
Gas it and rpms go up but speed wouldnt.
It was basically like limp mode but no cel or codes thrown at all.
So I take an exit and check everything out, no vac leaks, oils good, air filters good, it's obviously getting fuel and I'm assuming tps is good because I can gas it and it responds like normal but no power.
So I continue messing around and finally I heard a weird loud suckin noise and a gulp after I shut off the engine.
Was the radiator, it did it several times like it was suckling air and then moving coolant.
So I drained it, pulled hoses and tstat. Well tstat is for sure shot, as well as the radiator cap and possibly the overflow cap (not sure if it matters but it basically free spins)
So, obviously I'm going to flush and fix the cooling system but I wondered if a faulty cap or tstat could cause this issue?
Doesn't make sense to me since it was not stuck in any position because my temp stayed perfect. And no codes thrown.
I'm so lost on this issue, battery is good, haven't found any loose connections, Temps good, oils, good, Trans is good, it starts right up and sounds great but when I take off once I hit about 3k it loses speed and rpms go up, have to let off gas to get it to shift and it's a bit hard, I can get to 3rd gear doing this at about 30 mph, won't go any faster.
I thought maybe bad gas or fuel restriction so I tossed some b12 and techron in the tank and reved the **** out of it, let it set, reved, set, repeat...after the 4th time something broke loose and I got loud ping and knocking for about 4 sec then turned to a light tic, then died...started right back up and sounded normal again.
After all that, I take it for a spin again and same thing. It reminds me of what it'd be like to try to take off in a standard Trans in 3rd gear and clutching it...rpms up, speed just a dribble.
I'm not sure what other info I can give...this just randomly happened, doesn't seem to be fuel related because it's def getting gas to Rev it up...don't think it's timing issue because it's not rough or misfiring...not overheating..Idk
...one last th8ng that happened I should mention. Yesterday I went and messed with it more and did a bunch of parked revin and at first it'll Rev up to about 5.5k and bounce back from limit, then the next ten it only goes to 4k ish...it stayed round that for a while then I floored the peel to see if anything changed and heard some pinging so getting detonation I suppose...but rpms don't go up they got jerk and droped...now at about 3k wot and dropping to 2400 then up to 2700 and so forth...
Well I suppose I'll wait for some advice before I go.tearing into it any more.
I've read at least 200 threads and seems it could be a million things but almost all just don't make sense or are conridictions...so maybe se fresh eyes will help.
Thanks in advance guys!
Pull both upstream o2 sensors and take it for a ride. If power returns, you have a blocked cat(s). Going to be noisy on the test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I checked with my scan tool, and nothing at all.
I'm not thinkin it's a clogged cat because of how fast it happened and the exhaust seems to be putting out a steady flow and doesn't weird except upon first starting and it has a rich smell
 

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First off, A sitting REV check is never logical nor in any manual I have ever read. Don't take this personally, just that "reved the **** out of it, let it set, reved, set, repeat...after the 4th time something broke loose and I got loud ping and knocking for about 4 sec then turned to a light tic, then died...started right back up and sounded normal again" This statement just sounds all bad. Things that just "break loose" in internal combustion engines are never good. A couple questions:


1. Are you the original owner?
2. How many miles on it?
*3. Ever change the timing belt?


Anyway, you could very well have lost some teeth on the timing belt and maybe smacked a valve or two "loud ping and knocking for about 4 sec then turned to a light tic, then died" If this did occur, the heads will need to be removed to inspect for internal damage. I really hope for your sake this is not the case as it will be expensive and time consuming. I would pull the timing covers and manually turn the crank(with a breaker bar) and inspect all the teeth of the timing belt and tension and see if the timing marks still line up. I say tension check because the heavy no load revving could have damaged the Timing belt tensioner and if it did, and timing belt looks intact it could have jumped a few teeth under revs and still smacked something inside. That's why I would check that all the timing marks line up still. If they don't you have part of the answer. If they do line up consider possible internal bullet dodged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lol well same goes to you as well, don't take this personal, not insulting your intelligence but reving IS logical and serves a very big purpose!
First off, if the cause for loss of power was an injector, plug, distro, or fuel pump then reving it in park will almost always show symptoms...only difference while driving is it is under load and yes, that will change a few things like fuel pump demand...but in park reving it still releases the same amount of fuel as it would at that rpm in drive.
So since I had no shudder/shakes, misfires, no weird sounds, rpms stayed normal and didn't vary, absolutely nothing out of the ordinary.
Also, the fact it sat several months unused could have allowed the gas to build up rust, sediment, or gummed up etheno, so since it was not drivable really and I needed to run cleaner and heat through it the only logical step was to do so while in park.
Now as far as your suggestion goes about timing, and to answer your questions, no not the first owner, bought it with 215k and now has 217k, no service records at all but from the looks of other parts I've replaced I'm fairly certain the previous owners did absolutely nothing except change the oil.
Has original shocks, alt (just replaced), spark plugs and wires (replaced), Trans has never been serviced (new fluid and filter) and as far as I can tell nothing else was replaced except brakes rotors, and tierods.
So to answer your question about the timing, yes I know it is well past due for it to be replaced but that's the one thing I won't mess with and can't afford $700 to $1000 to have it done (quoted from 6 diff shops) and honestly this ride was just bought as a temp vehicle and didn't pay much, so ain't worth spending that much without any dire need.
I don't think it broke teeth or anything at all because once again, rpms are steady, no dead spots on rpm band, no missing or shaking, and viewing live data I can see my timing degree and it is normal and doesn't change or vary until it's supposed to upon accelerating aND decelerating.
If anything was wrong with the timing it would be obvious.
And for the loud knock and ping, I'm not sure if you've ever cleaned the intake manifold before with top end cleaner but as carbon brake free it does cause knocking and pinging and there's no way around it, I just broke some carbon free, just wasn't expecting it to be that much.
It def didn't do amy damage to pistons, valves, rods, etc (at least nothing of any importance) or it would have continued to knock, made a weird sound, run rich, something...but like I said it is exactly the same as always, starts smooths, idles perfect, quiet, no smoke, nothing out of the ordinary except the power issue which obviously by doing my "reving" test I found happens in park as well which rules out tranny issues.
So now I have ruled out trans, fuel pump, fuel injectors, plugs, wires, distro, timing, o2 sensors, and fuses...
Which leaves me with coolant issue, some random broken wire/bad connection at a plug or ground, any other sensor, maf, map, egr, crank pos, iac, throttle position, etc....but I'm leaning towards something air related.
I should throw codes for sensors and such and should for air as well but I'm guessing a sensor or wire that feeds the info to the comp to set a code is possibly bad, and the way it is acting is like it's just not getting the air it needs.
 

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I have an 04 Santa Fe and I u saw my post "motor swap" u know I have been dealing with the 3.5 Santa Fe over 6 months now, HUGE HEADACHE. but anyways my car did something similar, lost power after a long drive to the point I had to tow it home. The 3.5 Santa Fe has 3 catalytic converters, if u have a misfire from bad plug,wire or coil 1 or even all 3 of those cats will clog. I had misfires from bad plugs n wires that killed my cats. Misfires were so slight that the car ran smooth as butter til the cats failed. Since u say exhaust "sounds" normal, no puff puff puff sound of the usual catalytic failure, maybe a single cat failed out of the 3 killing power. There's a cat on each exhaust manifold then the main cat underneath toward the middle of the car. If a cat on one of the manifolds clogged, only those 3 cylinders are affected so u could have cylinders 1,3,5 making no power and 2,4,6 running normal or vice versa, and if one clogs power will be lost. And also the important part is that no code came up when that happened no code at all no light no nothing. Hope that helps
 

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Also the coolant should not effect the way it runs, only the CTS or coolant temp sensor will effect the way it runs, but that usually throws a code
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice...I was worried that may be the issue, just weird how it did it outta the blue, but I have heard of cats that melt then break a big chunk loose and clog the exhaust enough to cause issues.
Idk how I'm gonna go about checking that with it stuck at walmart parking lot lol.
Half tempted to go Sawzall off both bank cats and use pipe over and couplings just to check.
I'm sure if they aren't shot anyways they are at least close to it because I can guarantee with over 200 and they have never been changed.
But I'm curious if there is a specific ground wire or any electronic issues anyone's aware of that would cause it...that's what I think it is is elec because ALL the wires and harness are old, oil covered, and not looking too hot, wouldn't be a far leap to believe a connector arc and fried or a rock hit a broke a ground, or water corroded connection, etc.
 

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Those manifold cats are not easily cut off the way it is designed its bolted to manifold . I think you can buy test pipes which are basically cat deletes for the manifolds. Easiest way for you would be pull the o2 sensor that is before either cat and see if it has power again
 
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