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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have been having issues with my 2012 2.5 CRDi Hyundai iMax for about 6 months now.
Earlier this week I seemed to managed to have fixed it and the symptoms had disappeared only to return three days later (more later).

Sudden drop in intake manifold pressure after 30km's of driving (from cold). About 30% drop in pressure.
Car drives normal (as in completely normal) for the first 30k's.
The car looses power and slows down from about 100km/h to 30-80km/h (less on hills).
I park the car and let it run stationary (very stable) for about 5 minutes and am then able to drive another 5km's without issues until the problems re-appear.

Already tried:
Replaced intake manifold pressure sensor, suction control valve, temperature sensor (on the pump), MAF sensor and crankshaft position sensor.
Replaced (with reconditioned) injectors.
Replaced fuel and air filters. Checked for fuel line obstructions. Checked and cleaned tank filter.
Checked wiring on the suction control valve plug for damage (none).

Error codes:
0087 - Low fuel pressure. Only shows (sometimes) when the issues arise.
No other codes.

Earlier this week I removed the suction control valve (newly installed a few months ago with no effect) and re-installed the old one. This resulted in no change in the symptoms at all (30% loss after 30km's). I installed the new one again and test drove the car. I had no issues for 3 days (about 300km's). The issue re-appeared after my wife drove it on the highway. At the point the issues appeared, the car had already driven 100km's that day with no issues.

I do not believe that it is a fuel line or filter issue. The car drives great for 30km's and clearly supplies sufficient fuel from the tank.
This model has the updated (and improved) turbo. Seeing the car drives great before having the fuel pressure issues, I do not believe that it is my turbo.

I am very reluctant to bring it to the stealership. They quoted me $1000 for a new common rail and $6000 for a set of new injectors, this is without labour. I suspect that without fault code they will just start to replace expensive parts hoping to fix the issue.

Anybody any ideas?
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