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So the Cam Sensor can cause a no start just like the Crankcase sensor?
It may not apply to your system. There are some systems that is the CPS fails while engine is running it'll not cause the engine to stall but if the signal is missing during crank it'll not start.
I don't have the service information on your vehicle. You would do well to purchase a subscription from Alldata.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Did some lookup on the cam sensor and says it will short and get worse and eventually quit and car will not start again. Had similar situation on this car. Was not running proper and while on scanner, shut down a couple of times and when I put it in the garage, never started again. Going to recheck absolutely everything tom and will post back.
 

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Did some lookup on the cam sensor and says it will short and get worse and eventually quit and car will not start again. Had similar situation on this car. Was not running proper and while on scanner, shut down a couple of times and when I put it in the garage, never started again. Going to recheck absolutely everything tom and will post back.
You should really buy a year of the Alldata. I don't know where you got that information but I do know this. Cam and crank signals need to be clean or it will create all kinds of problems. If a cam sensor shorts it will not get worse. It's useless with any kind of problem like that. They are good or bad. There can be intermittent problem with the wiring, connectors ect.
Get the Alldata. It'll pay for itself and save you a ton of time. Us too...:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Sorry about taking up your time. Looked up Alldata. 172.00 a month? No thanks. I'll have to take my chances with those who have the time.
Also, new CPS. Still no start. Rechecked the fuses under the hood. Only ones tied to Engine control relay mentioned in your previous post, have fire with the ignition switch off. All have 12v with switch on. None blown. Have not had time to do testing on fuel pump on at crank yet. Will post back.
 

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So was a solution ever found? I have same year and motor size. Mine is ALMOST doing same thing...basically won't start. I've had someone else working on it until today and I had it towed home so I could figure it out. I'm gonna try the fuel test that was mentioned, but I'm gonna have to start another thread for my prob and I have pictures of wires and clip looking things that I need a name to. So if any more info is available or if prob fixed plz update post
 

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I realize these posts were a while ago, but I thought I would share my experience and repair for this exact same problem with my wife's 2005 Sonata with the 2.7 V6. A few years ago I had the same no-start. Engine turned over fine, but there was no sound from the fuel pump. Verified by volt meter on pump connector while trying to start. Applied 12v direct to fuel pump and it ran. No CEL or codes.
Went through all diagnostics and just happen to see that the CPS wire was completely bare and bare wires were touching each other. Insulation had all come off because of extreme heat. Replaced CPS and that seemed to fix issue.
Fast forward three years later and same issue happens. I check CPS and notice that wire insulation is starting to crack again. Removed and replaced CPS. Seemed to fix problem. While outer insulation was cracked on old CPS, wires inside still had insulation on them so I was not convinced.
Two days later car then failed to start with exactly the same problem (no power to fuel pump when cranking). Looked at factory wiring schematic. Replaced fuel pump relay. Did not fix problem. Tried shaking CPS connector and wiring around, did not make any difference. I then replaced the CPS wiring harness connector and I replaced the ECM relay (next to fuel pump relay behind center dash panel). This fixed the issue. It has been fine (fingers crossed) for the last three weeks.
I believe that the issue was the ECM relay all along. It was probably intermittent in operation.
If you have this issue the first thing you should do is inspect the CPS lead for cracking or exposed wires. Then just go and replace the fuel pump relay and ECM relay.
Hope this helps others.
John
 

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I realize these posts were a while ago, but I thought I would share my experience and repair for this exact same problem with my wife's 2005 Sonata with the 2.7 V6. A few years ago I had the same no-start. Engine turned over fine, but there was no sound from the fuel pump. Verified by volt meter on pump connector while trying to start. Applied 12v direct to fuel pump and it ran. No CEL or codes.
Went through all diagnostics and just happen to see that the CPS wire was completely bare and bare wires were touching each other. Insulation had all come off because of extreme heat. Replaced CPS and that seemed to fix issue.
Fast forward three years later and same issue happens. I check CPS and notice that wire insulation is starting to crack again. Removed and replaced CPS. Seemed to fix problem. While outer insulation was cracked on old CPS, wires inside still had insulation on them so I was not convinced.
Two days later car then failed to start with exactly the same problem (no power to fuel pump when cranking). Looked at factory wiring schematic. Replaced fuel pump relay. Did not fix problem. Tried shaking CPS connector and wiring around, did not make any difference. I then replaced the CPS wiring harness connector and I replaced the ECM relay (next to fuel pump relay behind center dash panel). This fixed the issue. It has been fine (fingers crossed) for the last three weeks.
I believe that the issue was the ECM relay all along. It was probably intermittent in operation.
If you have this issue the first thing you should do is inspect the CPS lead for cracking or exposed wires. Then just go and replace the fuel pump relay and ECM relay.
Hope this helps others.
John
Well I posted the above too soon! Car exhibited same problem shortly after three weeks. No power to fuel pump. Everything else was fine. I jumped the fuel pump relay connector from terminal 30 (hot power from fuel pump fuse) to terminal 87 (direct wire to fuel pump). Still no power to fuel pump. I ran a new solid wire from the fuel pump relay direct to fuel pump black female connector and cut the thicker factory gray wire at the relay and the single gray wire at the fuel pump connector. I also spliced a ground wire to the black ground wire at the fuel pump black connector and drilled a hole in the sheet metal close by and attached the new black ground wire with a sheet metal screw. This insured a clean ground path. Doing both of these seem to fix the issue. I decided that there must be a high resistance or ground fault in the multiple connectors in the wire harness from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.
However, two days later the same problem happened again. Unplugged and checked the connection at the fuel pump and the female connector had power. Plugged it into the fuel pump male connector and the car car started fine, fuel pump ran! While car was running I wiggled the black female connector at the fuel pump back and forth. The car instantly shut off. I wiggled only the black plastic connector, not the wires going into it. Connector did not feel tight even though it was snapped on correctly.
Investigated the female black connector hollow pins in the black connector. I removed the brown "W" shaped connector retainer where the wires go into the black connector. The open end of the "W" can be squeezed together to release it from the connector body. I then slipped a paper clip end into the small hole above each pin which releases the pin. I pulled them all out (noting their position in the connector first). I slid the individual pins onto any of the male pins on the connector at the top of the tank. They all were a very loose fit. There is a "V" shaped indentation on the bottom side of each hollow pin. I took a small Phillips head screw driver and put the end into the "V" and gave a LIGHT tap to bend it in a little. I trial fitted onto the male pins until I had a nice snug fit for each female hollow pin. I put the pins back into connector, snapped the brown "W" retainer back in and reconnected to fuel pump.
This was the problem all along. I left my new single wire from the relay to the pump connector in place as well as the additional ground wire.
Hope this helps others with this mysterious intermittent fuel pump power issue.
John
 

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Well I posted the above too soon! Car exhibited same problem shortly after three weeks. No power to fuel pump. Everything else was fine. I jumped the fuel pump relay connector from terminal 30 (hot power from fuel pump fuse) to terminal 87 (direct wire to fuel pump). Still no power to fuel pump. I ran a new solid wire from the fuel pump relay direct to fuel pump black female connector and cut the thicker factory gray wire at the relay and the single gray wire at the fuel pump connector. I also spliced a ground wire to the black ground wire at the fuel pump black connector and drilled a hole in the sheet metal close by and attached the new black ground wire with a sheet metal screw. This insured a clean ground path. Doing both of these seem to fix the issue. I decided that there must be a high resistance or ground fault in the multiple connectors in the wire harness from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.
However, two days later the same problem happened again. Unplugged and checked the connection at the fuel pump and the female connector had power. Plugged it into the fuel pump male connector and the car car started fine, fuel pump ran! While car was running I wiggled the black female connector at the fuel pump back and forth. The car instantly shut off. I wiggled only the black plastic connector, not the wires going into it. Connector did not feel tight even though it was snapped on correctly.
Investigated the female black connector hollow pins in the black connector. I removed the brown "W" shaped connector retainer where the wires go into the black connector. The open end of the "W" can be squeezed together to release it from the connector body. I then slipped a paper clip end into the small hole above each pin which releases the pin. I pulled them all out (noting their position in the connector first). I slid the individual pins onto any of the male pins on the connector at the top of the tank. They all were a very loose fit. There is a "V" shaped indentation on the bottom side of each hollow pin. I took a small Phillips head screw driver and put the end into the "V" and gave a LIGHT tap to bend it in a little. I trial fitted onto the male pins until I had a nice snug fit for each female hollow pin. I put the pins back into connector, snapped the brown "W" retainer back in and reconnected to fuel pump.
This was the problem all along. I left my new single wire from the relay to the pump connector in place as well as the additional ground wire.
Hope this helps others with this mysterious intermittent fuel pump power issue.
John
Nice bit of trouble shooting and inventive repair. Nothing worse than an intermittent problem.
 
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