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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this is probably in here somewhere but I have not been able to find it. I have the 13 elantra sedan with a non navigation head unit. I installed a line out converter (scosche LOC2SL) and I am not getting any sound to my sub. The amp has power and I am getting frustrated. I saw a video on youtube that a user of this forum put up and installed the converter behind the head unit. I hooked my wires up to the wires for the rear speakers, I hooked the power wire to an accessory wire from the harness, and I hooked the ground up to a ground wire from the harness. Any thoughts on why I am not getting sound? TIA
 

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Is there a "remote turn on" wire also? There are often two power leads - one high-current 12v for amp power, and a second that used to be connected to the old "power antenna" radio lead - it applies 12v when the radio is "on" and it turns the remote amp "on". You can connect it to a switched 12v power source, if your amp has the remote power lead and you have not connected it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a remote power wire, I have it spliced into a line in the radio harness that was labeled as an accessory wire. The power light to the amp is on, would it come on if the remote was not working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, I put the volt meter on the remote terminal of the amp and it showed 12v so I know that it is getting power when the key is on.
 

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If it is hooked up properly play with the gain on the amp, if the gain is to low you will get no sound or bass out of the speakers.
 

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I have seen this a lot and usually ends up being the gain control as mentioned previously, just run through it all again to be 100% you didn't forget anything if still nothing try different remote power source. Let us know how you make out!
 

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Are the rear speakers getting a full signal? If they are not getting 20HZ-200HZ might be reason youre not seeing anything at the amp...

But sounds more like a connectivity issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everybody, I will run through it tomorrow and see what I come up with. I will post to let you know what I come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I am still at a loss for getting my line out converter to work. I tried splicing into the speaker wires in the B pillar like scosche recommended and I still have noting. I have tried different amps and subs but to no avail. Scosche didn't have the wiring diagram for the 2013 elantra sedan. I read on here that the wire colors for the right rear speaker were brown and white. Is the color the same in the connector that attaches from the door to the body of the car? I would really love to get my system up and running and I am really getting frustrated. Thank you in advance.
 

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what are the settings on the amp? I will assume you have it x/o low pass at something like 80-100h with gains appropriately set (same for any gains on the line out). I'm also assuming RCA's are correct, subwoofer speaker wires are connected, etc.

also did I just read that you tapped into the tweeters wires to send the signal to the sub? Those tweets will have factory head unit equlaizing built in (i.e. no bass) and whatever you send that signal to will display no bass. it is my understanding that the factory tweets are crossed over within the area of where the midrange speaker wire is located. So, the HU sends one + and - to left mid speaker, the sound hits the left mid while it concurrently crosses over the tweeter frequencies via another + and - going to the tweeter. If you spliced your line converter into the wire between your mid and tweeter, your line output converter is recieving a high pass crossed over signal...thus no bass. I'm like 95% this is how it is setup (unless the tweeter's crossover is built into the tweeter itself....don't think it is).....when i tapped into my speaker leads, i only had 4 different speakers that i remember tapping into at the HU, which was a pain to put out the dash. I don't remember having the option for 6 speaker outs. The reason there are only four is because of what i just mentioned....the other two for the tweets are crossed over at the midrange (I believe).

Splice them in line with the midranges or the rears to be sure....even then, there is some bass roll off features (as volume increases) due to factory EQ settings, which is why i did the DSP that i did. However, you will still get some low bass.

I would tap into the rears for the sub and forget about it.


see my build here....not the most informative i must say, but was a fun project http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-md-2011-elantra/139686-2012-gls-stealth-audio-system-upgrade.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was assuming that the wires in the B pillar were for the rear door speakers as the connector goes through the pillar and into the rear door. Everything on the amp is as it was in my old car and it worked great in there. On the back of my HU there is only 4 sets of speaker wires. I initially tied directly into the rear wires off of the HU and there was no sound. I called Scosche tech support and they told me that my car has a factory amp and I needed to splice into the rear speakers that that is what I was trying to accomplish but I was not successful.
 

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Only cares with Navigation have a seperate amp....i thiought i read yours doesn't.

the head unit is the amp on the GLS...at least the 2011-2012 models
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is correct, I don't have navigation in my car. Is it possible that my line out converter is just a bad one? I am starting to think I should pay the piper and just get the LC2i.
 

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That is correct, I don't have navigation in my car. Is it possible that my line out converter is just a bad one? I am starting to think I should pay the piper and just get the LC2i.
i'll send you a rockford fosgate BLD 3Sixty for cheap.:mellow:

3SIXTY Analog Processors - RF-BLD - Rockford Fosgate®

As for your current problem...I think its always best to grab speaker level inputs from the front left and right speakers. You can access these wires by just removing the little kick panel covers under the dash.

Then you need generally power and ground, and sometimes remote turn on.

But locs are usually pretty simple devices that don't "not work", however they are sometimes fused....did you check that?

Plus i believe that the power wire should go to the battery...something that is +12v at all times. Accessory wires are switched power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the offer, I just ordered the LC2i. I did not check to see if the LOC is fused. As far as the power I hooked it up to an accessory not the battery so maybe that is the problem.
 

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Thanks for the offer, I just ordered the LC2i. I did not check to see if the LOC is fused. As far as the power I hooked it up to an accessory not the battery so maybe that is the problem.
no worries..what does the LOC ask for ? +12v or ACC on the install sheet? It does make a difference.

I owned a LC2i once...its a great piece. It will supply a remote turn on lead to your sub amp too. But it will need to be hooked up to constant 12v, and dont ground at a "ground wire from the head unit"...ground to the physical chassis.

That could also be the problem with your LOC...it may just not be grounded:mellow:
 
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