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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am getting some land out in the woods, and need to pull a small utility trailer in and out of there for hauling wood and landscaping equipment.
I don't need 4wd or much weight capacity, just more ground clearance

I already got a trailer hitch on the car, but it is on cut springs with bald summer tires. I will need some new stock springs. strut and/or spring spacers and some bigger tires that I can throw on my old 14" steelies.

I have seen someone on here lift their Accent, but I can't find it.

It's either this, or a beater pickup truck.(ugh)
 

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I cant remember his name off the top of my head.

if you have land and a place to park it....a beater truck isnt a bad idea. we were making do with a old mazda mpv and a utility trailer, it only took 1 trip carrying a full pallet of retaining wall stones (split the stones about half and half between the van and trailer, it seemed overloaded if you ask me)

It got us thinking about a truck, we got an 80's F150 (2wd I6 4spd longbed) for less than a grand. Plus side is most times we need to go get something larger we dont have to haul a trailer now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am normally all about screwing around with another project vehicle, but I've done the beater truck many times before, and it is just too much trouble. I would rather have a jacked up Accent. It doesn't make a very good race car, so at least it could be a pretend truck. Plus it has working A/C, is reliable, and gets great gas mileage.

For the front struts, I just need a pair of spacers and longer studs for the top mounts. For the rear, a simple spacer will do. These things should be far cheaper than a beater truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Accent forest-ute will happen in the next couple of months if I can make a deal on this land.
I am considering acetal (Delrin®) as a potentially easy-to-machine-at-home material to make some strut mount spacers and rear spring spacers. 6-inch diameter rods are over $170+/ft... w/e.
Otherwise, I'll have to give my CAD drawings to a machine shop and have them do it in aluminuminum.
I have to see if some 185R14C van tires will fit (about 1" diameter larger than 175/70/14). 6 or 8 ply would be far more durable than 2-ply passenger tires for driving over tree stumps and junk.
I also need some SE springs.
 

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Good call on the SE springs. Stiffer ones seem like they would be helpful.

I hauled around a lot of heavy stuff for projects around the house... Pavers, bricks, many bags of topsoil, etc... The stock GLS/GS shocks/springs weren't up to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good call on the SE springs. Stiffer ones seem like they would be helpful.

I hauled around a lot of heavy stuff for projects around the house... Pavers, bricks, many bags of topsoil, etc... The stock GLS/GS shocks/springs weren't up to the task.
I plan on using the trailer for everything, and it shouldn't have more than 200 lbs tongue weight.... shouldn't...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After researching many coil springs, I have decided that spacers are not required. Elantra front springs up front, and Volvo 240 rear springs in the back. Should lift the Accent anywhere from 1-3 inches over stock. Some trimming will be required, and probably some can bolts for the struts. Cool
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, so I have discovered that front Elantra springs are a no-go.
Therefore, I am back to strut spacers. 2" thick 6061 aluminum plate is actually fairly economical.
Volvo 240 sedan rear springs seem to be a good bet, and are pretty cheap.
Yep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Here it is so far.




Those are 195/65R15 tires, for a 0.6" total lift from stock.
The front struts have 1/4" of spacers on the top mounts, and a rubber spring spacer for another half inch or so of lift.
The rear springs are Moog 5711's with one about one coil cut. About 2" lift or so there. I can tow a 1500 pound trailer without any sag, and the ride is more than acceptable.

I may go for some 3/4" spacers for the top of the struts and see where that gets me.

I also want to fab up a front skid-plate/bumper guard/light bar. I would mount it straight to the front subframe and make it real beefy. I can't weld aluminum, so the frame will be steel. Too heavy? Maybe.
 

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I like it. I do a lot of dirt road travel looking for things to photograph and a few more inches of clearance would be pretty handy.

How's it ride?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The ride is ok. The rear springs are pretty stiff, a little bouncy, but acceptable. The fronts are basically stock. The tires are pretty average as far as ride/handling/noise. They are just some Mastercraft MC440T all-seasons.
I think I will need some good mud flaps now that I have those big tires all exposed.
 

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Awesome!!
For the skid plate, can't you just attach it to where the plastic guard screws in, might have to add some way of attaching it in the back since the screws are sort of front and side only. That way you can go aluminum, will only have to do some cutting and probably some bending. A decent gauge sheet of steel will be pretty heavy at that size & will rust eventually.
 
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