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Hello I'm having issues with the left running lights not working. All other functions work, turn signal, brake light, backup light but with the lights on the red running lights come on like they should and then immediately turn off. The right side works fine? So the lights aren't blown and the fuse isn't either because they come on for a second. I did ding the trunk lid backing into a pole 4 months ago and yesterday this started. Hyundai won't warranty it because of the dent on the trunk. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Well, the fuse seems to be okay cause it turns on for a moment then goes off
All the other lights and functions correctly??
Then it has to do specifically with that circuit??
Did you check what the ding on the trunk did to the wiring??

That really is strange. Turns on for a sec and then off.
 

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Ha, with a dead tail lamp if stopped by a cop, may get shot if you are not extra nice.

According to the circuit diagram the left and right tail lamps are fed from separate wires clear from the front from the smart junction box. do have current limiting. Left tail lamp does have a connector with a short harness that plugs into the vehicle harness. Suspect a possible marginal shorted circuit, is the left side of your trunk the part that was damaged?

Can you even close the trunk?

Back in 2005 wife and I were walking out to our one year old car, trunk was pushed in, called the police for an accident report, even with witnesses, but no closed circuit TV, no proof that we did this ourselves, bodyshop said was hit by a pickup truck. Thought our comprehensive should cover this, but insurance company said collision that goes against us. Ha, was time to find a different insurance company, but sure could not drive it this way.
 

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My wife's 2013 Elantra GT has the exact issue where the left-side front/back running lights and the license plate light are not properly working since May 2019. The issue is the left side running lights/markers lights and the license plate light come on like they should for half a second and then immediately turn off. The right side works fine. All other light functions work: turn signals, brake lights, backup lights and emergency lights. The funnest thing is that the left side running lights and license plate light are on when the brake is pressed. When the brake pedal is released, those lights are off again. I have checked almost all fuses inside the engine and inside the cabin and all the bulbs with multimeter, everything is at working condition. The car has no accident and all recalls, including recent recall for brake pedal is serviced in October 2018. The dealer wanted to charge me 2 hours labor to perform the electrical circuit diagnostics, so any help is appreciated here!
 

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2019 Elantra GT N-Line 2018 Elantra GT Sport
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It's difficult to form an opinion, and make a judgment call, if we can't see the damage to the trunk. One person's "dent" can be a door ding, while another persons "dent" is basically half the trunklid missing.



We'd have to see photos to really get an idea. The wiring for the taillamps don't route through the trunklid, though NicholasD already explained the rest of the wiring conundrum. So I'm already skeptical of your service dept monkey.
 

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The simplest thing to do ... just to make sure it isn't this problem ... is
Clean all the contact points and grounds that are in the bulb socket and connectors and chassis grounds
This will eliminate corrosion and anything minor.

Check to see if power or ground (or both) is missing
Then, one will need an electrical schematic to follow where the power comes from or ground

Good luck
 

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@FKKD

Did you ever come up with a resolution for this? I have a 2012 and you described the exact same situation that I have. My wife is using my car for the next couple days so I haven't had a chance to do any troubleshooting.

My wife's 2013 Elantra GT has the exact issue where the left-side front/back running lights and the license plate light are not properly working since May 2019. The issue is the left side running lights/markers lights and the license plate light come on like they should for half a second and then immediately turn off. The right side works fine. All other light functions work: turn signals, brake lights, backup lights and emergency lights. The funnest thing is that the left side running lights and license plate light are on when the brake is pressed. When the brake pedal is released, those lights are off again. I have checked almost all fuses inside the engine and inside the cabin and all the bulbs with multimeter, everything is at working condition. The car has no accident and all recalls, including recent recall for brake pedal is serviced in October 2018. The dealer wanted to charge me 2 hours labor to perform the electrical circuit diagnostics, so any help is appreciated here!
 

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Was there ever a solution to this problem? My car is doing the exact same thing but on the right side....
@FKKD

Did you ever come up with a resolution for this? I have a 2012 and you described the exact same situation that I have. My wife is using my car for the next couple days so I haven't had a chance to do any troubleshooting.
 

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There two 10mm bolts on the inside of the trunk that have to be removed to take the tail lamp assembly off, have to very carefully pull it backwards to get it off, but every carefully,

A number of wiring harnesses from the fender to the tail lamp assembly can be broken. Very well possible that dent cause this. Just two wires running to each lamp socket, ground and 12 volts when the light are turned on, visual will show the problem. Also corrosion in the light socket.
 

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You cannot see a broken filament in the light bulb, broken wire, or a corroded terminal with the tail light assembly attached to the vehicle. Have to remove it first. In electricity, visual is always the first test.

In automovitive troubleshooting the negative terminal of the battery is the reference point for any positive voltage. If using a multimeter need at least 20 foot long leads, Gound points far away from the negative may have a very positive voltage, has to be zero, and course, all electrical must be turned on.

On my motorhome, ignition on, turn signal lever up for right trun, green light on the dash was steady. Had to get up and go outside, rear turn signal was on front was off. Removed the lens, could see both filament were intact, but the socket was corroded. No need for a meter here.
 
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