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Hello all,

This is my first post and I have some questions about this Item. First off I own a 2017 with the 2.0T. And i did do a search and didn't find anything about what I'm looking for. My first question is there anyone in the forum that runs this in a 2017. I have looked at a few things on youtube and found that with this tuner people got only about 15% increase. I'm looking at the 93 tune and from what is said it should be a 20 percent increase. So this leads me to wonder if the tune would be worth running the 93 fuel for only 15 percent. Also is this a permanent mod. if you connect it and than use it, if you disconnect it will it go back to the original settings. This is my DD and iI commute 85 miles a day I am not sure if i want to run this all the time. Also does anyone have any MPG results on this item. Again thank you guys for all your time.
 

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Not running in a 2017, but...

I've had the Lap3 Uncle Chip running on my 2011 Turbo for the last two years and change.

If you're talking about the Uncle Chip rather than the full tune...then no, it's not a permanent mod. Just unplug - it takes about a minute to remove. Your ECU will reset after a few trips if you remove it.

Not sure about exact numbers, but gains should be similar/approximately proportional to your native power. You can always try different gas octane ratings by adjusting settings on the inside of the chip. I already ran 93 in my car. It really hauls now with the chip. No complaints. Effortless acceleration with light throttle. I can't imagine taking it out for any reason, other than perhaps wintertime driving to avoid tire spin as some do. Personally...just be lighter on the throttle. Same goes for gas mileage. Depends entirely on how you drive, but you'll get commensurate mileage if you emulate the performance of the car pre-chip with your driving behaviors. Really no drawbacks IMO.
 

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Hello all,

This is my first post and I have some questions about this Item. First off I own a 2017 with the 2.0T. And i did do a search and didn't find anything about what I'm looking for. My first question is there anyone in the forum that runs this in a 2017. I have looked at a few things on youtube and found that with this tuner people got only about 15% increase. I'm looking at the 93 tune and from what is said it should be a 20 percent increase. So this leads me to wonder if the tune would be worth running the 93 fuel for only 15 percent. Also is this a permanent mod. if you connect it and than use it, if you disconnect it will it go back to the original settings. This is my DD and iI commute 85 miles a day I am not sure if i want to run this all the time. Also does anyone have any MPG results on this item. Again thank you guys for all your time.
I saw this last night and decided to hold off commenting until morning...

There are 2 entirely different things, a chip and a tune.

The chip intercepts the signals coming from the sensors going to the ecu, then it modifies the signal and sends the ecu a lower value, which in turn adjusts the boost. The chip makes the car account for the tuning (change in air/fuel, ignition timing and all of that) and it can and will cause problems further down the road if it isn't kept in check. The chip plugs in to various sensors and is completely removable and undetectable.

The chip is fine if you want just a bit more power out of your car, though if you intend on doing more than a intake and catback exhaust then the chip isn't for you. As soon as you replace the midpipe you're going to be causing damage to your car if running the chip. The midpipe is the most restrictive part of the exhaust and if you free it up the chip will cause overboost and your motor will pop.

As for the tune I don't know for the LF, but I have heard Lap 3 was in development stages last time I checked. The tune would be installed on a separate ECU so you could go back to stock whenever you choose. The tune would change air/fuel, timing, torque management, boost, rev limit, top speed and other variables. Keep in mind that when running either the chip or tune you'll want to fill up with premium, since you have a turbo motor you should be filling up with premium anyway.

For both the chip and the tune you should be running full synthetic oil (either 0w40 or 5w40), switch to HKS M45XL spark plugs and run dual oil catch cans or a single 3 port can.

As for my experience I have a 2012 2.0T and have had the tune for about a year and a half. I run a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back and currently I'm on the stage 1.5+ HFC tune. I have other performance mods, but the only one that's needed for this specific tune is the midpipe. As for any tune or performance upgrade you're more than likely going to lose some fuel economy. I notice going from the stock tune to this I average about 27-28 instead of 30. I can get 30-31 on my way to work but after it idles for a bit at a traffic light the mpg starts to drop. If you are interested in the tune you can contact Lap 3 directly to inquire.

https://www.lap3usa.com/contact-us

That's about it, sorry I don't have more information for you. If you have any other questions let me know.
 

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Sometimes the "Chips' that are available are also referred to as "piggyback tuners" and as C4RN1 clearly explained above is basicly they alter and / or trick the stock ECU into making changes or they alter the signal from the stock ECU to the injectors, engine and transmission sensors. They are usually a 5-10 minute install in line with the stock wiring harness and when removed are undetectable by the dealer as they leave nothing on the ECM.

The "tune" involves reprogramming (change the MAP) the ECU or replacing it with another ECU that has been reprogrammed. This will be detected if you take the car into the dealer and may violate the warranty or smog / smog emissions. But if you have the OEM ECU you can change it out before taking the car into the dealer or for smog checks.

Performance increases are more with a true tune. Common problems with the "chip or piggyback tuner" can be over boost sending the car into limp mode as well as other small things like an occasional rough idle, MPG , hesitation if the chip confuses the stock ECU. I had a Burger Chip on my MBZ 250 and once in a while on hard acceleration with a downshift it would overboost and send the car into limp mode and you would have to pull over, shut it off and restart the car.

Thsi is the lap 3 site https://www.lap3usa.com/lf-sonata for the LF Sonata and currently they do not show any products available for 2015 and newer (LF) Sonatas but from K store they sell the Lap3 chip listed for the LF and there have been a couple people on this forum that have one. 10-15 % increase for just a chip is a substantial increase in performance (on the 2.0T that is 25-40 Hp and 26-40 Tq.) This is from a thread in the LF forum where a member has installed the Lap on a car http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/583233-lap3-uncle-chip-installed.html

Looking at the Lap 3 site they seem more involved at this time with the Elantra Sport, their tune for that 1.6t adds almost 100 Ft Lbs TQ and 75 hp, close to a 40-50% increase.
 

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The chip is fine if you want just a bit more power out of your car, though if you intend on doing more than a intake and catback exhaust then the chip isn't for you. As soon as you replace the midpipe you're going to be causing damage to your car if running the chip. The midpipe is the most restrictive part of the exhaust and if you free it up the chip will cause overboost and your motor will pop.
Man this is the first I have heard that. The overboost is just chips in general or specific to the lap3 chip and a sonata? I got some mods in my car. Replaced intake, charge pipe, BOV, 2 oil catch cans, spark plugs, downpipe and midpipe. The last thing I did was the lap3 chip a year and a half ago and love it and have not had any problems so far. So with the chip I'm setting up my car for failure? What damage can be caused?
 

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Man this is the first I have heard that. The overboost is just chips in general or specific to the lap3 chip and a sonata? I got some mods in my car. Replaced intake, charge pipe, BOV, 2 oil catch cans, spark plugs, downpipe and midpipe. The last thing I did was the lap3 chip a year and a half ago and love it and have not had any problems so far. So with the chip I'm setting up my car for failure? What damage can be caused?
Yeah sadly you put yourself at risk with a midpipe and the Lap 3 chip, especially when it's cold outside.

Join our facebook groups and search, you'll find a bunch of supporting info. If you can't find what you're looking for post a question and we'll answer it for you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/KDMTuning/
 

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Yeah sadly you put yourself at risk with a midpipe and the Lap 3 chip, especially when it's cold outside.

Join our facebook groups and search, you'll find a bunch of supporting info. If you can't find what you're looking for post a question and we'll answer it for you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/KDMTuning/
So I'm guessing you'd recommend the Lap3 tune over the chip lol. I currently got my chip out because of the winter, might just leave it out and get the tune once it gets warmer out.

Thanks for the info
 

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So I'm guessing you'd recommend the Lap3 tune over the chip lol. I currently got my chip out because of the winter, might just leave it out and get the tune once it gets warmer out.

Thanks for the info
Yeah there have been so many that have upgraded from the chip to the tune, even at stage 1 you'll feel the difference. The tune also has several maps and you can switch back to stock in a few minutes. The tune also prevents overboost due to the midpipe, so it's safe to run year round with a aftermarket midpipe.

Recently there were tuning developments made on our platform by KSR. I'm not going to be naming anyone but someone that was Lap 3 tuned sold their ecu to KSR (nobody thought KSR could read it), then they modified the tune and put down some very high numbers. Lap 3 in turn has decided to finally release their Stage 2 tune that runs a lot more boost. Stage 2 has been in testing for quite awhile now and was never going to be released due to other tuners stealing Lap 3's tune. Well now that it's happened there's nothing to prevent. Stage 2 will put down over 300whp with full bolt ons and quality 93 octane. We are recommended to run a E85 mix to ensure the octane is on par.
 

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How high on octane can one go & still advance spark on a stock ECU?
All I've ever seen mentioned is 91/93.
Stock map will be maxed out at 93, this e85 mixing is for Lap 3 stage 2. Stage 2 turns up boost and is for 93 octane, though our 93 octane and 93 octane over in Korea is slightly different. To bump our fuel up to par for Stage 2 we mix a couple gallons of e85.

Your question is kind of confusing, you can further advance timing due to the higher octane.
 

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Stock map will be maxed out at 93, this e85 mixing is for Lap 3 stage 2. Stage 2 turns up boost and is for 93 octane, though our 93 octane and 93 octane over in Korea is slightly different. To bump our fuel up to par for Stage 2 we mix a couple gallons of e85.

Your question is kind of confusing, you can further advance timing due to the higher octane.
I wanted to know, if I mixed E85 for 95 octane, if my stock map would advance the spark further than it would on 93 octane.
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I can mix 12gl of 92 octane Ethanol-free & 1gl of E85/70% 105 octane for 93 octane slightly over 5% total ethanol & obtain more power & good MPG or

I can run 33.33% pure ethanol & 66.66% pure petrol for 93 octane and crappy MPG. Maybe 12mpg w/me foot in it.

I know a 5% total of ethanol at 93 octane would produce more torque/hp over 33% ethanol mix also at 93 octane on a stock engine.
I'm not sure how to calculate the cooling benefit of more ethanol or any other benefit from the Uncle piggyback chip only set at 89.

Around 28% lies twixt the twain. A little over 5% ethanol total allows for more punch from the extra petrol whilst 33% adds tonnes of cooling. Anywhere between lies various combinations of ethanol & petrol that could still come out to 93 octane.

When the ambient temperature starts climbing more ethanol would help to lower temperature. But where on the scale of 5%-33%?

I have not installed an Uncle chip yet. I'm not sure how that modification, at only the 89 setting, will effect boost/spark advance and the probability of more power through mixing over 93 octane. Mine is a 2011 Sonata 2.0T w/no mods. Stock boost is a bit over 17lbs I think.

How much more boost and spark advance, if any, is available using the piggyback Uncle chip set at 89 using 93 octane? Could I see benefit from 95 octane w/chip set at 89?

How much ethanol mix, from 5%-33%, would I need to cool the slight extra boost & ambient temperatures up to 100* F/38C?

I could also merely pump 93 octane w/10% ethanol.

I want the most from the piggyback chip set at 89 w/rest of the auto stock using a mix of ethanol/petrol from 5/95 93 Octane to 33.3/66.6 also 93 octane or more octane if the chip will allow an advantage over 93 octane.
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I know in the latest OM Hyundai says no to anything over 10% ethanol. I figure it could run up to 40% ethanol perhaps, but if there's no advantage to 40% say over 20% then there's no reason for the extra 20%.

The local E-free 92 provides the most power for stock, not sure of their mix for 92 octane, but as temperatures rise performance suffers from the heat. And it's also noticeable w/93 that's 10% ethanol at the pump. More ethanol is less powerful, but the cooling effect can help minimize the heat.

If the uncle chip and/or higher than 93 octane has no effect then the mix must pivot from 93 octane.

How much cooling benefit Vs. more power of 100% non-ethanol at 500' above sea level up to triple digits ambient temps?

The O2 sensor will adjust for the higher percentage ethanol. I'm not running 33%, but I'm running a real healthy dose. The mill responds well to extra E. But, I'm lost on determining the sweet spot of just enough w/o too much. The pisspoor MPG are of no concern.

I'm guessing the uncle chip set at 89 allows a boost of 3-4 lbs on the top end. Does that equate to 1.5-2lbs at 3-3.5K rpm WOT? Or, is all that boost only on the top end?

Does the uncle chip allow for more or quicker spark advance in similar fashion as it does for more boost?

I realize the chip isn't a tune, but it manipulates boost. So, I wondered if it also manipulates spark advance in similar fashion.
 

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Well, ran smooth outa edits. I only want a bit more power. The Sonata has unequal half-shafts, great design for steering torque, slushbox that doesn't fully engage until 2500 rpm, torque peaks momentarily at 3500 rpm before scaling back, and no limited slip; sorry braking the spinning side is fine for mud or snow though otherwise blows.

So, for drivability & economy I decided a Lap3 Uncle piggyback chip at the lowest setting of 89 would be appropriate. After five yrs on the market I should be able to find all my answers online from dyno posts & whatnot. Especially since mine is a 2011, So much for rushing to judgement.

It's my DD even though it took a bunch of driving to ease me average up to 8400 miles a year. I do not wish to put a heavy load on the old gal.

I want as much longevity as I can muster w/bit more performance. In that pursuit I might snag a K&N air filter. I'd rather run an ethanol mix than buy an intercooler. Maybe a mod to the airbox. After warranty dries up I might yank the catalytic convertor and use it for a boat anchor.

For the time being I'm working on an ethanol mix to be followed w/uncle piggyback chip, set at 89, and a set of plugs at 7 heat range except for #2.

Right now I'm guzzlin' ethanol on the original plugs w/63K on the clock & happy as a clam. Plus, Bambi ran out in front of me today, so I see a check in me future. After I settle, purchase gorilla glue, plumber's strap, duct tape, baling wire & headlamp tape I'll probably clear a few g's for that K&N filter. Not including pain, suffering & mental anguish.

Perhaps splurge a mite on a couple o' cans of Krylon & paint a band-aid across the fender, hood & front wrap.

As always, YMMV ...
 

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Well, ran smooth outa edits. I only want a bit more power. The Sonata has unequal half-shafts, great design for steering torque, slushbox that doesn't fully engage until 2500 rpm, torque peaks momentarily at 3500 rpm before scaling back, and no limited slip; sorry braking the spinning side is fine for mud or snow though otherwise blows.

So, for drivability & economy I decided a Lap3 Uncle piggyback chip at the lowest setting of 89 would be appropriate. After five yrs on the market I should be able to find all my answers online from dyno posts & whatnot. Especially since mine is a 2011, So much for rushing to judgement.

It's my DD even though it took a bunch of driving to ease me average up to 8400 miles a year. I do not wish to put a heavy load on the old gal.

I want as much longevity as I can muster w/bit more performance. In that pursuit I might snag a K&N air filter. I'd rather run an ethanol mix than buy an intercooler. Maybe a mod to the airbox. After warranty dries up I might yank the catalytic convertor and use it for a boat anchor.

For the time being I'm working on an ethanol mix to be followed w/uncle piggyback chip, set at 89, and a set of plugs at 7 heat range except for #2.

Right now I'm guzzlin' ethanol on the original plugs w/63K on the clock & happy as a clam. Plus, Bambi ran out in front of me today, so I see a check in me future. After I settle, purchase gorilla glue, plumber's strap, duct tape, baling wire & headlamp tape I'll probably clear a few g's for that K&N filter. Not including pain, suffering & mental anguish.

Perhaps splurge a mite on a couple o' cans of Krylon & paint a band-aid across the fender, hood & front wrap.

As always, YMMV ...
You have way too many questions to be answered here, but I'll try to help.

No the stock map won't benefit from anything over 93 octane. I think it's even 92 or 91 octane where it's designed. All that the car does is increase timing based on knock, and there is a set limit from factory. It can only go up to that set limit, but the knock sensor will retard timing if the fuel is inadequate.

The Uncle Boost Chip is the most misunderstood and poorly misrepresented product out there. It's sold by a company that doesn't understand how it works, they just want to profit from it. In Korea they use the Uncle Boost Chip on a dyno and then will up boost by changing the setting. The Uncle Boost Chip doesn't change anything besides boost, it relies on the ECU to compensate. It can be useful if used correctly, but sadly that's rare. I wouldn't use the Uncle Boost Chip if I were you. The Uncle Boost Tune however is completely different. It changes multiple parameters in the ECU which make it safe and reliable. I've been tuned for over 2 years and 85K miles now and the car is still running perfectly.

As for the run-in with the deer check out KDM for Sale on Facebook. There's a very cheap pair of stock headlights listed on there.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/kdmforsale/permalink/2285845418371715/?sale_post_id=2285845418371715
 

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The Uncle Boost Chip is the most misunderstood and poorly misrepresented product out there. It's sold by a company that doesn't understand how it works, they just want to profit from it. In Korea they use the Uncle Boost Chip on a dyno and then will up boost by changing the setting. The Uncle Boost Chip doesn't change anything besides boost, it relies on the ECU to compensate. It can be useful if used correctly, but sadly that's rare. I wouldn't use the Uncle Boost Chip if I were you. The Uncle Boost Tune however is completely different. It changes multiple parameters in the ECU which make it safe and reliable. I've been tuned for over 2 years and 85K miles now and the car is still running perfectly.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Uncle chip increases boost & relies on the ECU to increase fuel via the O2 sensor, correct?

Much the same way as the ECU compensates for greater amounts of ethanol over 10%.

W/crappy traction, traction control off, I usually take-off in second gear to prevent spin. Boosting ethanol reduces turbo lag, especially noticeable at lower speeds, allowing me to feather the throttle for a good response.

The uncle chip used can be had for about 1/4 of the price new. I was looking for something to compliment the ethanol boost w/o going over the top.

If the lowest setting at 89 results in 3.5-4 lbs extra boost that would be fine. If it fattened the torque curve on the way up that would be great.

If indeed the 89 setting produces 15-20 HP that's enough for me.

I figured upping the ethanol would cure my wet tailpipes and it did. The mileage decrease I'm seeing compares to the MPG I see in the summer w/high ambient temps whilst running A/C.

"It can be useful if used correctly, but sadly that's rare."

How is the uncle chip used correctly?
 

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I'm not sure how you would or could incorrectly use the UC. It is a very simple and quick plug and play.

I had mine, set for 91 oct, on my 14 Sonata SE with a downpipe/resonator, stock cat-back. It worked fine for probably 25k miles plus or minus a few. Then I put it on my 13 Gen Coupe R-Spec for prolly 20k miles, still 91 oct.

I never put my cars on a dyno, but my dad put his 14 GC R-Spec on a dyno. While on the dyno they did a couple base, stock, runs. Then installed the UC, set for 93 oct, while the car sat on the dyno. He gained an instant and verifiable 40 whp, exactly as claimed by Lap3 on the 5K Optima website.

As a side note, the 13 GC 2.0T, and 3.8 can run on 87 oct, but you get about 10 less hp than running premium. Apparently this makes the Lap3 tune slightly better on the Sonata 2.0T than the GC, as seen on my excerpt from the K5 store specs.

Hyundai Sonata: 89/20hp - 91/35hp - 93/50hp
Hyundai Genesis: 89/20hp - 91/25hp - 93/40hp

ominousone
 

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Thanks ominousone for sharing. If I'm not mistaken the Gen coupe 2.0T had a smaller turbo which was why it didn't have as much HP as the Sonata. That would explain the slightly smaller, -20%, gain in comparison.
 

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I'm not sure how you would or could incorrectly use the UC. It is a very simple and quick plug and play.

I had mine, set for 91 oct, on my 14 Sonata SE with a downpipe/resonator, stock cat-back. It worked fine for probably 25k miles plus or minus a few. Then I put it on my 13 Gen Coupe R-Spec for prolly 20k miles, still 91 oct.

I never put my cars on a dyno, but my dad put his 14 GC R-Spec on a dyno. While on the dyno they did a couple base, stock, runs. Then installed the UC, set for 93 oct, while the car sat on the dyno. He gained an instant and verifiable 40 whp, exactly as claimed by Lap3 on the 5K Optima website.

As a side note, the 13 GC 2.0T, and 3.8 can run on 87 oct, but you get about 10 less hp than running premium. Apparently this makes the Lap3 tune slightly better on the Sonata 2.0T than the GC, as seen on my excerpt from the K5 store specs.

Hyundai Sonata: 89/20hp - 91/35hp - 93/50hp
Hyundai Genesis: 89/20hp - 91/25hp - 93/40hp

ominousone
You need to be in the know....

The Uncle Chip is only sold by K5OptimaStore.com in the US. He gets these from a 3rd party and Lap 3 doesn't support nor endorse this product in the US. The guys name is David Keslow and he'll do anything he can to make a buck. When the Uncle Chip was released to him he didn't have any requirements for it. BTR and SFR required at least upgraded plugs for their tune, then later on catch cans where a requirement as well. There's a lot of info out there on the other forums, you just have to look.

One of the biggest issues with the Uncle Chip is that K5OS gives you the wrong settings.

93 - 666
91 - 755
87 - 744

Which these are baselines for Korea, not for the US.

As stated before our gas is of lower quality and octane so these settings won't work. So you need to bump these settings down a bit to work with the US fuels.

Here is what the community recommends.

93 - 755
91 - 744
87 - N/A

To top it all off Lap3USA aka David Chung, has to deal with all of the Lap 3 Uncle Chips coming to him for advice and support. Even though he's not affiliated with the Lap 3 UC he tries to help the best he can (he's been in this community for years).

So to sum it all up for you, you're buying a product that wasn't made for this market and is dangerous when used the way it's marketed.....
 

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You need to be in the know....

One of the biggest issues with the Uncle Chip is that K5OS gives you the wrong settings.

93 - 666
91 - 755
87 - 744

Which these are baselines for Korea, not for the US.

As stated before our gas is of lower quality and octane so these settings won't work. So you need to bump these settings down a bit to work with the US fuels.

Here is what the community recommends.

93 - 755
91 - 744
87 - N/A

So to sum it all up for you, you're buying a product that wasn't made for this market and is dangerous when used the way it's marketed.....
Well, I can see how differing octanes betwixt here n there would queer the deal.

Then in reality there's only two settings. I could run 93 octane on 744 perhaps pick up a bit of spark advance, but I wouldn't obtain the higher amount of boost available on 755.

That's good as I'm not looking for maximum boost. I'll take the used chip apart as it was claimed to be set on 91, but they may have used 755 & I want 744 because that's as low as the community recommends.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain the dealio.

Now, it's clear as a bell.
 

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mine, set for 91 oct,,,but my dad ... installed the UC, set for 93 oct, ... gained an instant and verifiable 40 whp, exactly as claimed by Lap3 on the 5K Optima website.

Hyundai Sonata: 89/20hp - 91/35hp - 93/50hp
Hyundai Genesis: 89/20hp - 91/25hp - 93/40hp

ominousone
Really? I opened up a used Uncle chip today a saw the sign of the devil.
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I had mine, set for 91 oct, on my 14 Sonata SE with a downpipe/resonator, stock cat-back. It worked fine for probably 25k miles plus or minus a few. Then I put it on my 13 Gen Coupe R-Spec for prolly 20k miles, still 91 oct.

I never put my cars on a dyno, but my dad put his 14 GC R-Spec on a dyno. While on the dyno they did a couple base, stock, runs. Then installed the UC, set for 93 oct, while the car sat on the dyno. He gained an instant and verifiable 40 whp, exactly as claimed by Lap3 on the 5K Optima website.

Hyundai Sonata: 89/20hp - 91/35hp - 93/50hp
Hyundai Genesis: 89/20hp - 91/25hp - 93/40hp

ominousone
Oh yeah, with the verifiable dyno results that my dad got, I actually did change to the "devil". Going from the 10s of thousands of trouble free miles set on 755/91 oct, I thought I would try the 666/93 oct setting. After a few hundred miles, I decided it was more of a PITA to go out of my way to find gas stations by me that had 93 oct..So I took the Lap3 out late last Fall and decided to look for a 3.8, which I found.

It is very easy to change the settings, as bonsai is seeing. C4RN seems to know much more about these than me. I am simply giving my experience with the Lap3 UC on 2 vehicles with the prescribed settings that we rcvd from K5. Take it for what it 's worth and spend your money how you want.

Thanks all,
ominousone.
 
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