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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally got my hands on it. Managed to hustle a KO3 for my remote mount setup. Came off a 1.8T with 40k on the motor. Shame it was wrecked... Not :D
Anyway, it begins here. Got the gasket set coming, all the lines, braided and steel lines... and made the exhaust outlet. Got pretty much the jist of where it's going as far as positioning. NO SHAFT PLAY at all in this turbo. It is mint, and a lil' pee-shooter :D. Time to boost ladies and gents. I'll keep you updated as parts come in and things go on. Here's the turbo... For now I'm heading to bed, hopefully I wont get to anxious for tomorrow to come so I can do some work... Hehe.





First to date...
 

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K03 is a small turbo. I don't know what size exhaust and charge pipe you were planning on but I would keep everything as small as possible, 2" exhaust and 1.5" charge pipe, to avoid losing too much velocity and keep lag minimal. The k03 can be cooled using the engine's coolant system but I wouldn't bother as exhaust gasses will be much cooler in the back and airflow on the underside should keep it cool.

If you ever feel the need for more power, a k04-020, 022 or 023 from a 225HP Audi TT should be a relatively easy upgrade on a rear mount setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Exactly. This turbo I think is good size. I want it to spool like... insane. I think 2.25 piping will be big enough. Not to big, but big. I'll keep everyone updated. I'm waiting on a few more things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All the gaskets came today! I got all new studs too. for the inlet and outlet. Any tips on dropping the banjo fittings? I hate them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure I'm quite understanding PastorK? KO3 to me is a good size. Especially the 053 that I have. Decent size compressor wheel. Spool should be fine, and I can run water cooling to it on the high pressure side. The oil will be "sts" style, feed and replenish. The turbo has less then 40k. The flange is generic for a ko4 as well if I happen to want more power. Just waiting on some metric anc fittings, to convert these wack **** banjo fittings to regular anc jic.
 

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i really would say go 2.50 inch. Im running 2.25 on a non turboed car,most turbo apps say 3" but since this is an accent i would say 2.50 or even 2.75. 3rd turbo accent,take lots of pics and videos so i can have my guide to my turbo installation :thumbsup:
 

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QUOTE (audobon @ May 6 2010, 01:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=320235
i really would say go 2.50 inch. Im running 2.25 on a non turboed car,most turbo apps say 3" but since this is an accent i would say 2.50 or even 2.75. 3rd turbo accent,take lots of pics and videos so i can have my guide to my turbo installation :thumbsup:
A remote mount turbo is actually under the car near the tailpipe so you want small exhaust tubing to keep velocity high. On a standard turbo setup, 2.5" on a 1.6L engine is really as big as I would go to prevent turbulences which would slow down the exhaust gasses. Unless you're planning on a bigger turbo like a GT35 or even a GT37 of course.
 

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QUOTE (burnitwithfire @ May 6 2010, 12:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=320236
A remote mount turbo is actually under the car near the tailpipe so you want small exhaust tubing to keep velocity high. On a standard turbo setup, 2.5" on a 1.6L engine is really as big as I would go to prevent turbulences which would slow down the exhaust gasses. Unless you're planning on a bigger turbo like a GT35 or even a GT37 of course.
really? ive never heard of that..did i go wrong with 2.25 then? :unsure:
 

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QUOTE (audobon @ May 6 2010, 01:17 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=320237
really? ive never heard of that..did i go wrong with 2.25 then? :unsure:
2.25 is a good size, it's the max I'd go on a 1.6L.

I remember an article in sports compact car magazine where they had a 350Z for two days to test it out before everyone else. They had a bigger than stock custom exhaust made. After a dyno session, the engine lost 5-10hp from its baseline run. It's just an example though but bigger isn't always better.
 

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Actually, upon reading a bit, it seems that on a naturally aspirated 1.6L engine, 2" to 2.25" is best to keep torque low in the powerband. That's what the Miata guys do on their 1.6/1.8L and they have a lot more aftermarket/experience than any Accent community.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Things are going well. Got all the ANC to Metric fittings. waiting on the inlet flange to be made/finished. Then we pretty much bolt her on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Honestly I've done 2 remote mount setups. This ones a little different just cause the turbo is water cooled. But I'll just tap the high pressure side and run it. Really the install wont be bad. And Our car has good compression and forged rods from the factor. 10-1 is decent for low boost. If anyone tells you different theyre quite uneducated on boost. Secondly I've read our car has forged pistons (that I'm NOT possitive) but seems plausable considering Hyundai went with forged rods. Alone with that is a decent crank. Should easily hold 160 170 whp. The only things I'm looking into are a spec stage two clutch. I know someone has bought one. Just wanted to hear from them on that subject. Damien says his holds up fine, but idk. Even hot? I could imagine it slipping while hot, minorly. Anyway, I've been insanely busy, but there will be no blown up hyundais.
 
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