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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
K&N filter, & ESC off, 2-3 more MPG!!!

Because of the latest constant rise in gas prices, at 39k miles now, I just replaced the stock air filter with a K&N unit. The results were a bit better then I even expected? Despite all the naysayers, The Tuc has become a bit more peppy all through the range, but most noticable off the line, and at least 1-2 more MPG! All without much extra intake noise as well. Next, I decided to continually shut off the ESC/ESP (traction control) which normally comes on by default each time you turn on the ignition. Finally, no surprise to me (as I have been experimenting with this for quite awhile) it gets even better! I noticed a combined 2-3 MPG increase, and this unleashes a bit more power on the Tuc as well!

Previous to this all winter I have been averaging a dismal 19-20 MPG on my AWD GLS, now I'm getting 21-23 MPG doing the same type of driving as always. To any naysayers out there, try this yourself for awhile before putting me down. one caveat: In bad weather, I just leave the ESC/ESP on as usual.
I have yet to test this on any long distance drives yet.

It was about time to replace my air filter anyway, but I couldn't find one locally (and didn't want to get it from the stealer) Then I saw the K&N on sale at Amazon for only $40, and decided that was for me, and I'll be the Guinea pig to try it, & report back,,, believe me, I'm not sorry, I never had such a pleasant surprise with an air filter in my life!.

Here's the K&N link at Amazon:
 

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Because of the latest constant rise in gas prices, at 39k miles now, I just replaced the stock air filter with a K&N unit. The results were a bit better then I even expected? Despite all the naysayers, The Tuc has become a bit more peppy all through the range, but most noticable off the line, and at least 1-2 more MPG! All without much extra intake noise as well. Next, I decided to continually shut off the ESC/ESP (traction control) which normally comes on by default each time you turn on the ignition. Finally, no surprise to me (as I have been experimenting with this for quite awhile) it gets even better! I noticed a combined 2-3 MPG increase, and this unleashes a bit more power on the Tuc as well!

Previous to this all winter I have been averaging a dismal 19-20 MPG on my AWD GLS, now I'm getting 21-23 MPG doing the same type of driving as always. To any naysayers out there, try this yourself for awhile before putting me down. one caveat: In bad weather, I just leave the ESC/ESP on as usual.
I have yet to test this on any long distance drives yet.

It was about time to replace my air filter anyway, but I couldn't find one locally (and didn't want to get it from the stealer) Then I saw the K&N on sale at Amazon for only $40, and decided that was for me, and I'll be the Guinea pig to try it, & report back,,, believe me, I'm not sorry, I never had such a pleasant surprise with an air filter in my life!.

Here's the K&N link at Amazon:
Amazon.com: K&N 33-2451 High Performance Replacement Air Filter for 2010-11 Hyundai Tucson 2.0/2.4L L4: Automotive
No disrespect but...
With the K&N air filter you might as well have no air filter at all. It's "free-flowing" for a reason.
The Traction/stability control does nothing unless it's needed......it will not change the MPG unless you are constantly in conditions where it is warranted.

It's almost impossible to make a modification and immediately notice MPG changes that are anywhere an accurate guage. There are way to many variables to take into consideration.

But hey, if you believe it works more power to ya.
 
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If you live in a sandy environment, like Florida, arizona, then the K&N is useless as the fine particles will go through. That oil is whats stopping fine dust and particles from flowing, and that's not a good medium. The K&N gets better in filtration over time as the particles it catches in turn work as the filtration medium. So that peppiness your feeling now goes away and the K&N behaves like a cheap paper filter with better filtration. But for that time your car felt peppy it was letting in metal grinding particles into your engine than your OEM air filter would be keeping out.

I stopped using K&N filters after learning about this since I drive in Florida.

The oil in the filter is also known for gunking your MAF sensor and recharging it is where the oil is more damaging than when you first buy it...

I never been Pennsylvania (if that is where you live according to your profile here) but I don't think it's dusty/sandy like in the south so keep using your K&N and recharge it at the proper intervals.
 

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...The Traction/stability control does nothing unless it's needed......it will not change the MPG unless you are constantly in conditions where it is warranted.

It's almost impossible to make a modification and immediately notice MPG changes that are anywhere an accurate guage. There are way to many variables to take into consideration.

But hey, if you believe it works more power to ya.
I agree. And, without a serial recording of mpg, over many tanks full, over very similar driving conditions, I suspect anyone's 'mpg improvement' to be psychological, bad math, or 'something' really changed. A K&N won't do it: if it did every mfg'er on the planet would install them oe, to chase a higher 'EPA rated' highway mpg.
GL, mD
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
To all you naysayers, I guess it must be my freakin imagination then that each time I fill up lately I'm using less fuel for the same mileage! Duh! :rolleyes:

Berkletucson, I guess if you're averaging 25+ mpg on your AWD Tuc, you just don't care about getting better mpg. Also you are so wrong about how the electronic stability control works it's always working once your moving. Picture an electronic gyroscope, and each time you deviate from course the brakes, & throttle, are working, & being governed affecting gas mileage, (especially if you mostly drive hills, & curves, and, or drive agressively).

motordavid, I'm not saying it was just the K&N filter that improved mileage, it was a combination of that plus turning off the ESC/ESP. The latter I was doing on a regular basis, until I kept forgeting to "hit the button" on startup. :( After some investigating, I found a relay under the hood (in the relay box) that controls the ESS (electronic stability program) and removed it! Yes, it disabled the ESC/ESP, and after long term testing I was getting better gas mileage! :) But, I replaced it when going back to the dealer for normal serrvice, & an oil change. Now, I'm back to trying to remember to "hit the button" each time again :rolleyes: unless it's inclement weather.

Now, the fact is that this is my 3rd Hyundai, and you 2 guys are "newbies". My previous Santa Fe had no ESC/ESP on it, and was 4WD not AWD, and I used to get 20-24mpg around town, & 26-30mpg and got 87k on the org. tires! As opposed to my previous Tucson that had ESC/ESP, & AWD, with the same drivetrain that only got 20mpg, or maybe 24max when conditons were ideal, and used up 4 sets of tires! (max 20-25k wear out each), despite any, & all efforts, & tricks, I used to improve mpg, & tire wear, on my previous Tucson, that I never used on my Santa Fe,,, I just drove that one as was,,,, I have been suspect of ESC/ESP & AWD ever since :rant2:

IMO, my overall impressions of this 3rd Hyundai, is that Hyundai cut corners, & went cheap, & tinny, to meet a price point, & all out to improve gas mileage, but it's not much better on this latter version, despite it being lighter, with a 4cyl now, plus a 6 spd tranny, more aerodynamic, & low rolling resistance tires, it theoretically should be getting 30mpg on a regular basis but is NOT! Tell me why???

If I had known all this before buying, there would not have been a 3rd Hyundai, I almost bought a Suzuki SX4, after I drove it, but was seduced once I saw a new Tucson on the road, and had to know what kind of car it was that passed me by?,,, shame on me for trusting Hyundai again. By the way, I'm 1/2 way through my 2nd set of 80k miles rated tires, at 39k miles. :rant2:

One more thing, I have a Hyundai factory stock fine carbon air filter besides my regular air filter as mandated by the Feds up here in the northeastern states, to pick up anything that might pass my K&N filter anyway.

Finally, don't take me for some dismissable "Johnny come lately" around cars or vehicles, I've owned, fixed, modified, & raced, 67 mostly muscle cars, a dozen boats, & 4 motorcycles, in my 50+ years of building, & driving as a hobby,,, so I think, I kinda do know what I'm talking about if I say I got better performance, or mileage out of my vehicles.
 

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To all you naysayers, I guess it must be my freakin imagination then that each time I fill up lately I'm using less fuel for the same mileage! Duh! :rolleyes:

Berkletucson, I guess if you're averaging 25+ mpg on your AWD Tuc, you just don't care about getting better mpg. Also you are so wrong about how the electronic stability control works it's always working once your moving. Picture an electronic gyroscope, and each time you deviate from course the brakes, & throttle, are working, & being governed affecting gas mileage, (especially if you mostly drive hills, & curves, and, or drive agressively).
.
Wrong....
The "E" is for electronic..........various sensors monitor for the conditions necessary to activate the system. Under most driving conditions the system is just monitoring not being activated at all.
Will having ESC on a vehicle increase fuel consumption?
Yes, because of the added weight of the system......something you can't turn off with a switch (see below).

Disabling the traction control ESC system on any vehicle is foolish, even if you got the results you claim . It's there for a very good reason.

btw - Not being a naysayer at all.......just being realistic given the information you posted.
You may think it's proof positive......but it could be as simple as you driving more conservatively because YOU want a positive result.
Not to mention all the multitude of other factors in the equation.

Sorry you took offense but it is what it is...
Glad your happy with the results though. ;)



Will ESC affect my fuel consumption?

ESC will slightly increase your fuel consumption. Why? Because an ESC system will add about 4 kg to the mass of a vehicle, which we expect will increase fuel consumption by about 0.1%, (one more litre of fuel for each 10,000 km of travel if one assumes an average fuel consumption of 10 L/100 km).
Because ESC includes several components already present in Anti-Lock Braking Systems (ABS), adding ESC to an ABS-equipped vehicle adds only 1 kg to its mass, and requires only one extra litre of fuel for each 40,000 km of travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Wrong....
The "E" is for electronic..........various sensors monitor for the conditions necessary to activate the system. Under most driving conditions the system is just monitoring not being activated at all.
Will having ESC on a vehicle increase fuel consumption?
Yes, because of the added weight of the system......something you can't turn off with a switch (see below).

Disabling the traction control ESC system on any vehicle is foolish, even if you got the results you claim . It's there for a very good reason.

(What in the world did we do before we had traction control, or ESC? :rolleyes: We actually had to learn how to drive our car in all weather conditions. Mark my words, now a computer controls your car, not you. Which sometimes is not a good thing!)

btw - Not being a naysayer at all.......just being realistic given the information you posted.
You may think it's proof positive......but it could be as simple as you driving more conservatively because YOU want a positive result.
Not to mention all the multitude of other factors in the equation.

(Not really, I think I actually maybe driving it even harder being seduced by the extra power! :))

Sorry you took offense but it is what it is...
Glad your happy with the results though. ;)
(Wrong, here's your electronic gyroscope always in action. Right out of the Hyundai service manual, even if the light doesn't come on, besides if the light comes on it is too late, it only means a temporary failure of the system.)


TUCSON(LM) >2010 > G 2.4 DOHC > Brake System > ESC(Electronic Stability Control) System>Description and Operation
Description of ESCOptimum driving safety now has a name : ESC, the Electronic Stability Control.

ESC recognizes critical driving conditions, such as panic reactions in dangerous situations, and stabilizes the vehicle by wheel-individual braking and engine control intervention.

ESC adds a further function known as Active Yaw Control (AYC) to the ABS, TCS, EBD and ESC functions. Whereas the ABS/TCS function controls wheel slip during braking and acceleration and, thus, mainly intervenes in the longitudinal dynamics of the vehicle, active yaw control stabilizes the vehicle about its vertical axis.

This is achieved by wheel individual brake intervention and adaptation of the momentary engine torque with no need for any action to be taken by the driver.

ESC essentially consists of three assemblies : the sensors, the electronic control unit and the actuators.

The stability control feature works under all driving and operating conditions. Under certain driving conditions, the ABS/TCS function can be activated simultaneously with the ESC function in response to a command by the driver.

In the event of a failure of the stability control function, the basic safety function, ABS, is still maintained.

Description of ESC Control
ESC system includes ABS/EBD, TCS and AYC function.

ABS/EBD function : The ECU changes the active sensor signal (current shift) coming from the four wheel sensors to the square wave. By using the input of above signals, the ECU calculates the vehicle speed and the acceleration & deceleration of the four wheels. And, the ECU judges whether the ABS/EBD should be actuated or not.

TCS function prevents the wheel slip of drive direction by adding the brake pressure and engine torque reduction via CAN communication. TCS function uses the wheel speed sensor signal to determine the wheel slip as far as ABS function.

AYC function prevents unstable maneuver of the vehicle. To determine the vehicle maneuver, AYC function uses the maneuver sensor signals(Yaw Rate Sensor, Lateral Acceleration Sensor, Steering Wheel Angle Sensor).
If vehicle maneuver is unstable (Over Steer or Under Steer), AYC function applies the brake pressure on certain wheel, and send engine torque reduction signal by CAN.

After the key-on, the ECU continually diagnoses the system failure. (self-diagnosis)If the system failure is detected, the ECU informs driver of the system failure through the BRAKE/ABS/ESC warning lamp. (fail-safe warning)

Input and Output Diagram

ESC Operation ModeESC Hydraulic System Diagram

1.ESC Non-operation : Normal braking.

Solenoid valve
Continuity
Valve
Motor pump
TC Valve
IN (NO)
OFF
OPEN
OFF
OFF
OUT (NC)
OFF
CLOSE

2.ESC operation

Solenoid valve
Continuity
Valve
Motor pump
TC Valve
Understeering
(Only inside of
rear wheel)
IN(NO)
OFF
OPEN
ON
ON
OUT(NC)
OFF
CLOSE
Oversteering
(Only outside
of front wheel)
IN(NO)
OFF
OPEN
OUT(NC)
OFF
CLOSE


ABS Warning Lamp module
The active ABS warning lamp module indicates the self-test and failure status of the ABS. The ABS warning lamp shall be on:
- During the initialization phase after IGN ON. (continuously 3 seconds).
- In the event of inhibition of ABS functions by failure.
- During diagnostic mode.
- When the ECU Connector is seperated from ECU.
- Cluster lamp is ON when communication is impossible with CAN module.

EBD/Parking Brake Warning Lamp Module
The active EBD warning lamp module indicates the self-test and failure status of the EBD. However, in case the Parking Brake Switch is turned on, the EBD warning lamp is always turned on regardless of EBD functions. The EBD warning lamp shallbe on:
- During the initialization phase after IGN ON. (continuously 3 seconds).
- When the Parking Brake Switch is ON or brake fluid level is low.
- When the EBD function is out of order .
- During diagnostic mode.
- When the ECU Connector is seperated from ECU.

ESC Warning Lamp (ESC system)
The ESC warning lamp indicates the self-test and failure status of the ESC.
The ESC warning lamp is turned on under the following conditions :
- During the initialization phase after IGN ON. (continuously 3 seconds).
- When the ESC function is inhibited by system failure.
- When the ESC control is operating. (Blinking - 2Hz)
- During diagnostic mode.(Except standard mode)
- Cluster lamp is ON when communication is impossible with CAN module.

ESC Off Lamp (ESC system)
The ESC Off lamp indicates the self-test and operating status of the ESC.
The ESC Off lamp operates under the following conditions :
- During the initialization mode after IGN ON. (continuously 3 seconds).
- ESC Off lamp is On when driver input the ESC Off switch.

ESC On/Off Switch (ESC system)
The ESC On/Off Switch shall be used to toggle the ESC function between On/Off states based upon driver input.
The On/Off switch shall be a normally open, momentary contact switch. Closed contacts switch the circuit to ignition.
Initial status of the ESC function is on and switch toggle the state.
 

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ESC recognizes critical driving conditions, such as panic reactions in dangerous situations, and stabilizes the vehicle by wheel-individual braking and engine control intervention.

Thanks for proving my point.......;)

The rest is electronic monitoring of the system, period.
99% of most driving conditions the system is not actively doing anything. It's just monitoring.

Let's be honest here............do you think any car manufacturer in this day and age of trying to squeeze the last bit of fuel mileage out of a vehicle is going to put a system in place that drops 2 MPG across the board.
I don't think so......

Back to the K&N portion.............I honestly believe this could increase the MPG number because, yes, it is much more free flowing.
But at what cost?
I would never put one of these in a vehicle..........unless you don't care about longevity.

In either case a few simple drives after 2 modifications doesn't prove much given all the possible variables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for proving my point.......;)

The rest is electronic monitoring of the system, period.
99% of most driving conditions the system is not actively doing anything. It's just monitoring.
Wrong again,

Quoted from About.com:
"ESC is most likely to activate on slippery (wet, snowy or icy) roads, though driving quickly on curvy, hilly roads or hitting a bump while cornering may also trip the ESC system."

Let's be honest here............do you think any car manufacturer in this day and age of trying to squeeze the last bit of fuel mileage out of a vehicle is going to put a system in place that drops 2 MPG across the board.
I don't think so......
Facts by Wilkopedia:
Yes, I do, because the Feds have decided it's mandatory on all new cars after testing has found it decreases the number, & severity of accidents. For our safety as decided by big brother, again,,, like mandatory seat belts :rolleyes: Heaven forbid you accidently drive into a flatbed, or your vehicle catches fire, or goes into the river, with those on.

Back to the K&N portion.............I honestly believe this could increase the MPG number because, yes, it is much more free flowing.
But at what cost?
I would never put one of these in a vehicle..........unless you don't care about longevity.
IMO, if it were that detrimental, I think it would be taken off the market.

In either case a few simple drives after 2 modifications doesn't prove much given all the possible variables.
Well, I have been testing this without the ESS relay for months, and found consistently better MPG, I only put the relay back in to take it back to the dealer for service, then purposely replaced it recently to deal with the winter weather, and now disable it with the button when I want.
 

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Now if people claim they are mechanics would know as a fact that a k&n drop in filter has almost no immediate noticeable performance gains! And being a mechanic k&n air filters are ok on NON computer controlled old classic cars, but as for modern new vehicles that are computer controlled with many sensors I would NOT recommend a k&n filter due to their oiled filteration. Think of it this way; oiled air filter with oil residue being sucked threw the intake past the mass air flow sensor and other sensors in the throttle body will later on down the road dirty these sensors and cause premature failure! That's my thought and suggest or recommend a good dry air filter!
 

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I popped a K&N into my 2010 Touring and saw no difference in mileage. I had about 20k on the car before I put it in there.

Thats just my experience though and not based on much more data than one car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm glad someone ressurected this old thread. I just recently took out the K&N filter, and put back the stock air filter!

Here's why:
Originally I got more power, & better gas mileage, but after a few month's the Tuc got more, & more sluggish? Because the Tuc has no MAF, I don't know what controls the fuel/air ratio? Even though I pulled out the ECM fuse momentarily to reset the system, I doubt it made a difference.

Nothing else was changed, and I thought this must be the reason.
I figured maybe it was running too lean :eek:
So, after putting back the o.e. filter the Tuc regained it's pep, & power, but lost the little extra gas mileage, so be it!

After the Tuc was totaled, I experienced the exact same results after a few months with my newer 2011 Sportage, so just recently put the o.e. air filter back in the Sportage.

By the way, on both vehicles, I noticed the exhaust sound got a bit louder, (more powerful) as well. Probably the result of more complete combustion! ;)
 

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I'm glad someone ressurected this old thread. I just recently took out the K&N filter, and put back the stock air filter!

Here's why:
Originally I got more power, & better gas mileage, but after a few month's the Tuc got more, & more sluggish? Because the Tuc has no MAF, I don't know what controls the fuel/air ratio? Even though I pulled out the ECM fuse momentarily to reset the system, I doubt it made a difference.

Nothing else was changed, and I thought this must be the reason.
I figured maybe it was running too lean :eek:
So, after putting back the o.e. filter the Tuc regained it's pep, & power, but lost the little extra gas mileage, so be it!

After the Tuc was totaled, I experienced the exact same results after a few months with my newer 2011 Sportage, so just recently put the o.e. air filter back in the Sportage.

By the way, on both vehicles, I noticed the exhaust sound got a bit louder, (more powerful) as well. Probably the result of more complete combustion! ;)
I for one found this thread very interesting! I definitely learned something new....thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
To those who care to get the most performance from their vehicle for the buck.

After 2 failed poor resulting attempts, As I mentioned at the end of this thread:
(http://www.hyundai-forums.com/224-t...137421-k-n-filter-esc-off-2-3-more-mpg-2.html )
the third time was the Charm! ;)

This time I didn't remove the ECM fuse, or the battery cables, I just decided to switch filters after a short ride, and the car was fully warmed up (I think that did the trick!) I gave it a few minutes at idle, then took off for a small ride. The engine sounded stronger, When I got to the main road I went thru the gears, and the car balked, & hesitated a bit, but pulled strong,,, I assume it was learning the new settings.

The next day, and from that point on the car pulled stronger then ever at all speeds, and seemed to effortlessly rev past redline when going thru the gears. The intake noise during light acceleration is a bit raspy now (proof it's working better), and definitely louder at full throttle. The stock exhaust has a "lopey/cammy" sound to it now also. It's all good, But let me warn you, you will lose a couple mpg now! Not like the last 2 times I tried this (as per my previous post) with sluggish results, and better mpg (apparently from running too lean then). I avg. about 22mpg now, instead of 22-25mpg, but I don't care, I love the little extra power I gained ;)

Also, because this is a PZEV vehicle, I have the stock permanent extra carbon filter in the top of the air filter housing, and have not removed that yet. So, I don't know if that would also make a difference, or not?

On a side note, my girlfriend who does most of the driving has been pushing the car harder now on takeoffs, & passing, using the extra power, even though she didn't know why?,,,LOL, until I recently told her why, then to be careful! it's faster, but not that much faster on take off, or much shorter on passing,,,lol
 

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Messing with the intake on a computer controlled engine is wasted time, effort, and money--- The computer controls the fuel mixture and it will stay the same no matter what you do to the air filter!
Your gas mileage will probably improve because you are paying attention to your bad driving habits after you wasted the loot for the K&N and need to justify the expense--
If there was a way to improve gas mileage with an air filter, don't your think the vehicle mfgr. would jump on it like a duck on a June Bug?
 

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Personal Results

Mikdee, I saw this thread and decided to record mpg with both the k&n and OEM air filter. I had been running the k&n for about 20k miles with recording mpg as I always like to manually calculate and monitor gas mileage. So far I've been running the stock OEM filter from the Hyundai dealership for 5k. I've noticed two things right from the beginning. The car is quiter when pressing hard on the gas pedal. It doesn't have the same loud grunt it had when I floored it getting into the freeway or passing slower traffic. I also noticed that the throttle response is noticeably different and can't really decide if that's a good or bad thing. With the k&n, the car would hesitate and then jump rpm's quickly when ever I floored it - making an aggressive loud grunt for noise. The OEM does not jump rpm's and moves slower but more consistent and smooth - much less noise and smaller grunt. I would say the k&n makes it feel that the throttle response is a lot better but the hesitation it makes also makes me think it's no different in terms of acceleration between the two. The difference I saw in mpg was 1mpg at best for the k&n. Keep in mind the OEM filter was calculated from new to 5k. I have the 2012 GLS AWD PZEV model and plan to put back the k&n. Here's why; I enjoy the nice grunt it makes and also like that the car reacts quicker when you poke or step on the gas pedal. Just as you mentioned; I also have observed that the intake box has an extra carbon filter that is permanently attached to it. I don't have the concern that the intake will become oily as this carbon filter serves as an extra added filter. I also checked the intake tubing after the carbon filter and did not notice any oil residue when I first switched out the k&n for the OEM filter. I would say if you have the pzev model with the carbon filter then the k&n is a good choice if you want the above and also don't want to buy a replacement filter for the life on the car. If you don't have the pzev model with the extra filter and are worried about an oily intake - just stick with the stock OEM filter as the mpg/performance gain is not substantial IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
To those who care to get the most performance from their vehicle for the buck.

After 2 failed poor resulting attempts, As I mentioned at the end of this thread:
(http://www.hyundai-forums.com/224-t...137421-k-n-filter-esc-off-2-3-more-mpg-2.html )
the third time was the Charm! ;)

This time I didn't remove the ECM fuse, or the battery cables, I just decided to switch filters after a short ride, and the car was fully warmed up (I think that did the trick!) I gave it a few minutes at idle, then took off for a small ride. The engine sounded stronger, When I got to the main road I went thru the gears, and the car balked, & hesitated a bit, but pulled strong,,, I assume it was learning the new settings.

The next day, and from that point on the car pulled stronger then ever at all speeds, and seemed to effortlessly rev past redline when going thru the gears. The intake noise during light acceleration is a bit raspy now (proof it's working better), and definitely louder at full throttle. The stock exhaust has a "lopey/cammy" sound to it now also. It's all good, But let me warn you, you will lose a couple mpg now! Not like the last 2 times I tried this (as per my previous post) with sluggish results, and better mpg (apparently from running too lean then). I avg. about 22mpg now, instead of 22-25mpg, but I don't care, I love the little extra power I gained ;)

Also, because this is a PZEV vehicle, I have the stock permanent extra carbon filter in the top of the air filter housing, and have not removed that yet. So, I don't know if that would also make a difference, or not?

On a side note, my girlfriend who does most of the driving has been pushing the car harder now on takeoffs, & passing, using the extra power, even though she didn't know why?,,,LOL, until I recently told her why, then to be careful! it's faster, but not that much faster on take off, or much shorter on passing,,,lol

Still running with the K&N filter, and all is well!
I figured out why, & how it works now. When the engine is fully warmed up, and in "closed loop" mode, the O2 sensor is the item that adjusts the fuel/air mixture to suit. So, putting the K&N filter back in when the engine was fully warmed up, then taking the Sporty out, & going thru the gears, made a world of difference. The O2 sensor dialed in the right mixture for extra power! When it was cold, & removing fuses, or removing battery cables, that did nothing! I sacrificed a couple mpg, but everytime I hit the gas, it's Sweet! So, I don't care. I average 20-24mpg as it is around town now.
 

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K&Ns are good at one thing, letting particulates into your engine. Any horsepower gains won't be "felt" in a 2.0 or a 2.4 liter four. The increased air flow although minimal, only adds to the fuel needed to maintain the appropriate fuel/air ratio, thus not improving the mileage. Pop on a K&N onto high output engine such as a 5.0 liter 8 cylinder, and yes, you will see horsepower gains that are barely double digits, but in proportion to the stock horsepower, the gain will not be "felt".
 

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Let's all give PEAS a chance here!

Hey, MikDee did a simple mod and noticed some improvements. Even if minuscule, it at least made him feel better. As long as he continues to routinely clean and LIGHTLY re-oil his K&N air filter all is good. Hopefully he puts the traction control back on when driving with family members and during bad weather, which I'm certain he will do. NEXT UP, try changing out the stock oversized muffler like I did and see what slight MPG increases you'll get. The lower powerful humm is wonderful. See my post under "Magnaflow Muffler Installed.
 
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