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2011 2.0T Engine Replacement

I think it is important to the Hyundai Forum as well as all Hyundai consumers to understand what happened to me so they can keep this from happening to them.
As explained previously, I had my 2011 2.0T engine replaced last November in Ashville NC, when it encountered the infamous engine failure. I was on vacation. While the engine now works fine, it ran out of coolant ~ 5 weeks later. An incorrectly installed hose clamp was identified as the problem by a local dealer here where I live. I had the coolant replaced ($200) after the service manger in Ashville stated he would reimburse me since he was responsible for the workmanship issue. It has been over a month, during which time I have badgered everyone from Hyundai Consumer affairs to the GM at Ashville and I have heard nothing from Ashville Hyundai.
Two points to take away. 1) Hyundai should require that the car be returned to a dealer at least once following an engine replacement for a general inspection and 2) since each dealer is independently owned, work done at one dealer is not recognized by another. Force dealers to work out any reimbursement among themselves. Do not under any circumstances pay for work done by one dealer and expect to be reimbursed by another dealer.
I have been lied to, ignored and put in a situation that I did not create. Yet I am responsible for paying for a workmanship error that by all accounts should have been paid for by Ashville Hyundai. Not only does this reflect poorly on Ashville Hyundai, but it reflects poorly on Hyundai International.
 

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Just inspected, new oil dipstick installed

I just got my 2014 2.0t back from the recall inspection. The service adviser told me that they replaced the dipstick because they determined that the engine required more oil than originally specified. She didn't know exactly how much more but guessed about a half quart. I didn't see it discussed anywhere in this thread so I thought it might be good info for the guys who are holding out on the check.

They also did the oil tube replacement which came with an oil change. I asked her what oil they used and she told me they use Peak oil. I gave her a funny look and she said, oh, it's a full synthetic 10W30. Needless to say it's getting changed again this weekend.
 

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A couple of years ago, I had my 2012 2.0T into the dealer due to a loss of power. Turns out, the wastegate actuator was out of adjustment, and the fix was covered in a recall. Time passed, and everything on the car was working well. I had the oil pipe fix done, but for some reason, continued to smell hot oil. More time passed. Three weeks ago, I experienced the loss of power in the exact same mode as I did when the wastegate actuator needed adjustment.

No problem, says I, and called the dealer to set up an appointment to readjust the actuator. I took the car in, waited around while the work was done, paid $250 for the adjustment, and went on my merry way. For about 1 mile. As soon as I went go get on the freeway to head home, it was clear that no one had test driven the car after the adjustment. The car drove like it was missing about 200 HP.

I turned around and headed back to the dealer. This time, the news was not so good. The wastegate itself had "heat damage," requiring a complete turbo assembly. List price is over $1,500. Installation bumped the total estimate to over $2,500. The dealer also told me that the hot oil smell wasn't from the oil pipe, it was from a leaking valve cover gasket (another $300+). I made the appointment for 10 days later, and limped home to figure out how I was going to shove $3k into my budget.

Just to be on the safe side, I took the car to a different dealer. Completely different experience. The first thing that happened is that the service manager gave me a loaner, which meant I didn't have to fight the local heavy, fast, pre-rush hour traffic in a crippled car. Next, he told me he'd get back to me 4 days later with some news. 4 days later, the news was that there wasn't news, and to continue to wait.

Last night, I got a message from the service manager: I was getting a complete engine replacement, including the turbo assembly. I don't believe I heard the sound described by others in this thread. I also didn't think about the recall, because my car is at 145,000 or so miles. They did confirm that the turbo was shot. The service manager said it would take a week or so to get the parts, then another couple of days to do the swap.

I'm pissed at the first dealer for handing me a $2,500 estimate without attempting to cover the repairs under the recall, but I'm very happy with the second dealer for handling the situation the way he did. To me, it says there is a management problem at the first dealer, and that Hyundai corporate and the second dealer are interested in my repeat business. Any further dealings I have with Hyundai will be through the second dealer.
 

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Most do not use Oil spec that is in Manual of ACEA A3/B3 but oil that is A1/B1 not sure of difference. I have to get Mobil 1 European 5W-40W for it to have spec of A3/B3
 

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So based on this info, I may want to drive around with the stock parts and tools to remove the HKS plugs, BOV, LAP3 and OCC in case my engine grenades and has to be towed to the dealership? Wouldn't the OCC improve the vehicle or do they still consider it a warranty void?
 

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You might want to read the lawsuit outcome. Not getting it tested is not an excuse and if you go after 120k they could deny it. Most likely they wont but they could if they wanted to.
 

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I think it is important to the Hyundai Forum as well as all Hyundai consumers to understand what happened to me so they can keep this from happening to them.
As explained previously, I had my 2011 2.0T engine replaced last November in Ashville NC, when it encountered the infamous engine failure. I was on vacation. While the engine now works fine, it ran out of coolant ~ 5 weeks later. An incorrectly installed hose clamp was identified as the problem by a local dealer here where I live. I had the coolant replaced ($200) after the service manger in Ashville stated he would reimburse me since he was responsible for the workmanship issue. It has been over a month, during which time I have badgered everyone from Hyundai Consumer affairs to the GM at Ashville and I have heard nothing from Ashville Hyundai.
Two points to take away. 1) Hyundai should require that the car be returned to a dealer at least once following an engine replacement for a general inspection and 2) since each dealer is independently owned, work done at one dealer is not recognized by another. Force dealers to work out any reimbursement among themselves. Do not under any circumstances pay for work done by one dealer and expect to be reimbursed by another dealer.
I have been lied to, ignored and put in a situation that I did not create. Yet I am responsible for paying for a workmanship error that by all accounts should have been paid for by Ashville Hyundai. Not only does this reflect poorly on Ashville Hyundai, but it reflects poorly on Hyundai International.

Mine was completely different. My Service manager replaced my accessory belts for $50, gave me my radiator hoses for free, and he paid for a new battery out of his own pocket. This is the exact reason that I bought my car from a dealer in Scottsdale because they get higher end clientele that expect more from their dealer. Since they have money and good credit they typically will bend over backwards for them cause they also purchase multiple vehicles from them. It also didn't hurt I saved their ass on warranty work they did on my car but was going to have to eat the bill cause the tech ****** up. lol
 

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I'm actually going through this right now, I went in and they did the test and said everything checked out. about about a month later I hear knocking and lights come on dashboard. I am too out of warranty and thought the worse so I called warranty services at Hyundai. They said get Santa Fee towed here so we can look at it and see if we can warranty it. I'll be going there first thing in the morning to see if they will warranty it and put me in a rental while they repair. I'm hoping they will cover, will update if they do or not.
 

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Good evening, I wanted to reach out with a problem with my 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T May 2018 I received a recalled engine replace at 119k Luckily it was covered and Hyundai replace free of charge. My question is why would they replace the block and not the turbo. It is my understanding that a turbo is a major component of the engine. If I throw rods and metal goes through my engine it would contaminate the entire engine including the turbo. Correct? If I am wrong place correct me. The reason I bring this up is one month after receiving my new engine my turbo went out and I was struck with a $1300 bill for replacement. I personally feel the turbo should have been included since oil is circulated through the turbo and the engine block. Please advise with comments. Thanks in advance for anyones knowledge.
 

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Good evening, I wanted to reach out with a problem with my 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T May 2018 I received a recalled engine replace at 119k Luckily it was covered and Hyundai replace free of charge. My question is why would they replace the block and not the turbo. It is my understanding that a turbo is a major component of the engine. If I throw rods and metal goes through my engine it would contaminate the entire engine including the turbo. Correct? If I am wrong place correct me. The reason I bring this up is one month after receiving my new engine my turbo went out and I was struck with a $1300 bill for replacement. I personally feel the turbo should have been included since oil is circulated through the turbo and the engine block. Please advise with comments. Thanks in advance for anyones knowledge.
Our resident Hyundai tech SBR111 is the best person to ask but I do not recall the turbo being covered. Ironically I just had my engine go in my Santa Fe Sport and am waiting for a new one but I have the 2.4l.

Per recall, any out of pocket expense incurred by the owner as a result of the engine failure can be submitted for reimbursement. Sounds like the turbo failed after the warranty work was done but its worth a shot to send in the claim. I will he doing this once mine is done to cover diagnostic fees I paid a few years ago to have the dealer check for knocking / piston slap.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Well, it happened to me!


She started an occasional slight knock about a month ago that slowly become more constant. I thought (hoped really) that it was the heat shield on my turbo getting loose and that all I need do was to tighten it up. Alas, no. It was "the rattle of death"!

I have many mods and didn't take anything off. I took my extensive maintenance log/paperwork with me but they didn't need it. She failed the test and I will be getting a new long-block replacement. They will move over my existing turbo, high-pressure fuel pump and intake system to the new engine. He even offered to move over ALL my engine mods from the old to the new engine - for free! I also got a new 2019 Kia Optima LX as my free rental car.

The tech was really cool and we talked a lot about the recall and what they are seeing and suspecting is the issue. While the debris issue was likely real in the beginning, the real suspect is the oil pump/balance shaft assembly. Something starts binding, the rotor plate gets bent and the engine likely is not pumping oil as well as it should and this causes the failure from oil starvation. It has happened to perfectly maintained engines (like mine) with both low and high miles. HOPEFULLY, they have figured this out and have a new, redesigned unit in place for the long-block. All internals are new and of the latest versions (2015 is the last MY for this engine in production), while the block itself might be new or might be re-manufactured and fully inspected. I was also told that the new engine will have unlimited miles and unlimited years for its warranty - something I was totally not expecting!

So really, I got a "Golden Ticket" with the situation! The time-frame could be a few weeks to four months due to the back-logged nature of the replacement. I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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Today I picked up my car with the new engine (at 76,552 miles) under recall SC147!

As promised, the Kia tech moved over all my engine mods (minus the HKS M40XL plugs, I was going to replace them soon as I had over 20K miles on them). On the drive home, when I got into it a little bit, I heard a loud boost leak. Upon inspection, they totally forgot to tighten one clamp (located top of the inter-cooler) and it popped off. No biggie. A thorough inspection by me leads me to believe they did a pretty good job and I'm pleased! Time will tell!

The other updates I did besides the mandatory Kia ECU update (which gives me now unlimited miles/unlimited time on the new engine) is the turbo oil line (SA300), the ACU wiring extension (SC165) and a new serpentine belt (replacing the original belt after 6.5 years). Including the free rental car (2019 Optima LX) for 11 days, I paid a total of $71.49 ($50.93 for the belt, $20.56 for gas in the rental car). Not too bad!!
 

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I have a 2013 sonata 2.0t. My engine blew driving on the parkway. My car is 5.5 years old and only has 37,000 miles on it. Chunks of metal blew off of the engine. Dark smoke. What else should I ask for to be replaced while they replace the engine. A turbo? Was damage done to the exhaust ie catalytic converters? O2 sensor? I feel like more damage may have been done to other components from the engine blowing. Am I wrong? What else do you think should be done to give me piece of mind. I could have been in a bad accident if my engine seized and locked up my front wheels while doing 80 on the parkway. The car behind me would have rear ended me and I would have gone off the road. I love my car. Only problem was 3 months ago when the battery was dead in 5 degree weather. The car has been good up until this. Any suggestions?
 

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Kia/Hyundai all with potential junk engines, but surprised that it would not give any advanced warning if the KSDS update was done. Having said that, no sense rocking the boat before repairs and not much you can do except let it run it's course and then if any problems with the "new" engine then it'll be time to create some havoc.
 

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I just took my 2012 Limited 2.0t for engine replacemeent. The service manager told me they deplce with a long block plus new Turbo.
 

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My car started the rod knock yesterday evening close to home, went into limp mode with CEL. Drove it to dealership is 5 miles away and waiting for the official diagnosis.

94K miles and the diet of synthetic 5w40 and Fram XG on 3.5k OCI schedule could not prevent its eventual demise.
 

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My car started the rod knock yesterday evening close to home, went into limp mode with CEL. Drove it to dealership is 5 miles away and waiting for the official diagnosis.

94K miles and the diet of synthetic 5w40 and Fram XG on 3.5k OCI schedule could not prevent its eventual demise.
But you started [email protected] 60k with dealer maintenance before that? Damage was done by all that dealer maintenance.

I am starting with dealer oil changes in November.... Hopefully that will kill the engine before the 10yr point. :grin2:. Thin cheap bulk conventional with dry cellulose OE filters should kill it quick enough >:D
 
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