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Hey,

As the title says, I've dropped my keys (BOTH!) on solid floor and now the key isn't working anymore. I've been to a key repairer and he put the key on tester but the CHIP no longer emits any signal. This is most likely due to a short circuit.

Currently I can close my car only by manually inserting the key into the car lock, but it's not the same as closing it from buttons. Lights stay on, alarm is not being set if I lock it this way... which sucks.

So, I'm looking to buy some new keys and after that I need to remap those keys so that the car can properly read that signal. Keys at local dealer cost too much, so I'm going to buy it from ebay.

I've seen following models

4 button key (mine has 3, so no horn) - ebay.com/itm/262741289789?ul_noapp=true

3 button AFTERMARKET (the same as mine) - ebay.com/itm/2x-Remote-Key-Folding-Fob-Flip-w-Battary-ID46-433MHZ-For-Hyundai-Elantra-14-16/263471844863?fits=Model%3AElantra&hash=item3d58254dff:g:mGsAAOSwUH5ac9dQ&vxp=mtr

I've got the following questions:

1. Do you think these keys will work after remapping car key reading?
2. Is there any difference between the CHIP on the 1st compared to the one on the 2rd? Basically that CHIP has 1 more function and 1 more button, so I assume it's the same as it needs to send same signals. My key has only 3 buttons, exactly the first 3 from that key.
3. Will it work to remap car to work on 2 NEW KEYS? I assume car can read only one key signal so both keys need to send same signal, right? Which I assume it is the case for the original keys. Or the car can read up to multiple signals from keys? Like if you have 3 keys, each emitting its own signal, it is technically possible to open the car with any of them?

Thank you for your help,
have a nice day!

Much in debt to any who can help me :D it's been 2+ months already since I lock car manually. If I wasn't clear enough please ask questions.
 

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These things should handle a huge G-force, really don't have any mass to write home about. Did you check your 2032 mounting tabs, could be slightly bent and not making contact.

Also check their voltage, they hold at 3.3 volts for quite awhile, but then drop suddenly down to 3.0 volts, when this low, circuit will no longer function.

Now if you found vacuum tubes in there, this would be a problem.

Have the Limited ones, even with a medical grade Duracell, only good for a year. Have them wrapped up in a 2 cent ziplock bag with a rubber band around them, just need them in your pocket or wife's purse. Ziplock bag makes them 100% water proof, this can mess them up.

Need a GDS to pair new ones to your vehicle.

More worthless info, use a pseudo-random generator to burn codes into the chip, permanent memory, several million different codes, hopefully no two are alike, BCD in your car has to match these.

Can check mine by wrapping a couple of turns around the remote using a digital scope to learn exactly what the codes are to see if they are working. Also precision low voltage power supplies, they die at 3.0 volts.
 

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Call roadside if the car won't start becuase of the keys and have it towed there and tell them the keys stopped working. The keys are covered under warranty. 5yr/60k. I processed warranty claims for many of those fobs when I worked at the dealer
 

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Call roadside if the car won't start becuase of the keys and have it towed there and tell them the keys stopped working. The keys are covered under warranty. 5yr/60k. I processed warranty claims for many of those fobs when I worked at the dealer

Good advice, remotes are kind of tantamount to cell phones, wife dropped her iphone, broke the screen, I called Apple, they gave her a new one for free for good relations.


On the other hand, her friend lost hers, cost her a thousand dollars to replace it.


Just don't pitch your remote, if you do, your loss, return it to your dealer for a new one, and he should also pair it to your car for free.
 

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Yes! You paid for it. (Warranty) Get some use from it. Stick to your story about both suddenly going South on you.
 
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