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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I helped a neighbor do brakes on her 2003 Elantra sedan. I replaced rotors and pads front and rear. There were no issues in the front, however after putting everything together on the rear, the car makes a grinding noise when coming to a stop. Also the parking brake light is lit until the the brake is depressed and then it goes off and comes on again.

I pulled the rear wheels off and the rotor does not rotate freely. It seems like there is a drag as if the pads are compressed on the rotor or as if the parking brake is applied.

I looked around and could not figure if there was a need to adjust the parking brake. I took the caliper and pads off and re-assembled everything but there is still a grind and the parking brake lights up.

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
 

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You probably know more than I do, but just in case ... did you use that special tool to push back in the caliper piston on the rear?

Is there a grinding noise or a drag when spinning the wheel once the lug nuts are properly tightened? (Lift back up car once wheels are tightened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You probably know more than I do, but just in case ... did you use that special tool to push back in the caliper piston on the rear?

Is there a grinding noise or a drag when spinning the wheel once the lug nuts are properly tightened? (Lift back up car once wheels are tightened.
Yeah, I pushed the pistons in with the 'cube' tool. If the caliper bolted back to the rotor, the piston was far enough back. Besides if that was the problem, the braking action of the system would seat the piston correctly after a few pumps.

Remembering back, I think I mangled one of the slider pins as it was hard to get off. This could be the problem - a seized slider pin. Next time I go look at the car, I will take a new set of slider pins as well.

Im still open to input from anyone else though.
 

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Worth checking out. Can't you just reuse the pins? On my car the lower pin on both front brakes were incredibly stuck. Took me a while to get them out. But once I did and lubed them up they were fine.
 

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The inboard pad has two raised ridges that need to line up with two slots in the piston ; they are small and you need to look closely.

The rear calipers have a tendency to seize fairly easily in the XD's for some reason; how hard was it to spin back in the piston ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The inboard pad has two raised ridges that need to line up with two slots in the piston ; they are small and you need to look closely.

The rear calipers have a tendency to seize fairly easily in the XD's for some reason; how hard was it to spin back in the piston ?
It was hard, but no more so than other pistons Ive seen. I had to apply a good amount of pressure to get the piston moving all the way so it was flush with the caliper, but it did move with that smooth, firm 'gliding' motion. I didnt think it was seized.
 

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Sounds like it was okay then. I had to replace them in the past.

Had to use a sylecone brake compound on rear caliper pads to stop a shuddering noise ; first time I've seen that with rear disc brakes.

Make sure parking brake cables are not sticking ; another possability. Both mine were replaced by 5 year point.
 

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Check the slides for corrosion. I did a brake job on the rears of my other car and the slides had a small amount of corrosion on the end by the rubber dirt seal. The pin would slide, but just not enough for the new pads as they kept the brake on just enough to cause overheating. I replaced the slides and all was well.

Also, make sure the hand brake cable is releasing completely. Just because the hand brake is down doesn't mean the brakes are released completely. The brake cable can stick over time.
 

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If we're talking rear brakes, my first suspicion would be the emergency brake cable seized up. Maybe a slight adjustment is all that is needed. I have seen techs tap it with a few mild blows with a hammer to get it to release.

That may or may not be the issue, but it's an idea. And not a unique situation. Happens more frequently than most people think. Usually a good idea to use it on occasion to prevent it from seizing due to lack of use. Believe it or not, there are some cars out there that have never had their brake handle pulled up.
 

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Take the caliper and pads off. If the rotor still turns hard, you have narrowed the issue to the pahking brake system.

Go forward from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE:

Figured it out! :D:D:D

So today, I got a chance to work on the car again. I pulled both rear calipers and rear caliper mounts off. Wouldnt you know? One of the caliper slides was frozen in place. After copious amounts of liquid wrench, I managed to free the slide and re-placed all four slides with brand new ones. Lubed everything up with 3M brake grease and re-assembled...

... unfortunately

... the parking brake light was still on.

So...

I pulled the console and messed with the parking brake lines adjusting in and out to no avail. However, upon closer inspection it looked like the passenger side parking break mechanism (the coiled spring thing) had seized from rust. I took the cable off and applied lubricant and motor cycle chain grease and pounded with a rubber mallet.

After re-assembling everything and adjusting the parking brake at the console, now everything works!!!

Its amazing what new hardware and lube can do for a set of brakes!

Thanks for all the input everyone.
 
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