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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Will 5W-30 run quieiter and better for long term?

So, As many know from my most recently post, I plan to do an oil change shortly and probably will go with Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, but im debating to use either 5W-20 or 5W-30. From what I can gather from posts on BITOG site, many say 5W-30 MAY be the better choice if you can to keep the car long term, as in over 100,000 miles and also the engine may run slightly quieter with 5W-30 and may provide a bit more protection long term since the oil is just a tad thicker.

Any truth to that, or just typical internet nonsense??

Thanks
 

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Personally.I would use the 5W30. Consider going to full synthetic. We have no idea how much of a synthetic blend is synthetic. There was a court case some time ago where it was deemed that to be called a "synthetic blend",only 5% had to be synthetic. Not the kind of odds I would like if I was to purchase such an oil.
 

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Good question. I liked the 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum I ran last time. Put in in car when outside temps were 100 degrees. Now using 5w-20 Pennzoil Ultra Plantinum for more flow in winter. Both run smooth. I have 10w-30 conventional I have in stock so it looks like that will be my summer oil. I am going to follow the chart in owner's manual on page 8-9.

Lower viscosity oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather.
Since the main purpose oil is to lubricate Hyundai is giving a clue as to what is most important. However, you may want to get the extra MPG using a lower viscosity (which so far I have not noticed a difference).

Using my 5w-20 or synthetic oils in Winter and my 5 or 10w-30 conventional/semi synthetic makes the most sense to me with all the oil I have. If I had all synthetic oil I do not think longevity wise there would be much difference.

I would also pay attention to the filter you use. OEM is ok. I am also going to use Fram Ultra. Both are designed to overcome Hyundai's oil issues that Motorking (Fram's Technical Director) stated here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u...03/Re:_Premium_Guard_filter_for_H#Post4323203
 

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Personally.I would use the 5W30. Consider going to full synthetic. We have no idea how much of a synthetic blend is synthetic. There was a court case some time ago where it was deemed that to be called a "synthetic blend",only 5% had to be synthetic. Not the kind of odds I would like if I was to purchase such an oil.
I agree. Plus you could get Pennzoil Platinum cheaper with the rebate. Wal-Mart usually has the best price.

I am noticing Zero difference in mileage between 5w-20 and 5w-30. Letting my foot off the gas pedal makes the biggest difference.

$2 Per Quart Rebate Offer | United States
 

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No conclusive way to tell.

Previous car was a 2002 Focus Zetec and I ran exclusively Motorcraft 5W20 SynBlend for 165K miles with no oil issues, so you CAN run over 100K miles on SynBlend.

That said on the 2016 Accent, first oil change was Castrol 0W20 Full-Synthetic and next two will be Supertech (Wal-Mart) 5W30 Full Synthetic, so I do think 5W30 gives a bit more protection. (Note that the 2016 Accent is GDI and the 2.0 Elantra is not, so I have fuel dilution concerns that you should not have.)
 

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check owner's manual. Elantra for example, is designed to use 5w20. So stick to 5w20 you can't do wrong. On summer you can switch to 5w30 so the oil won't dry out quickly on the piston, and better protection. But they don't have much difference
 

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check owner's manual. Elantra for example, is designed to use 5w20. So stick to 5w20 you can't do wrong. On summer you can switch to 5w30 so the oil won't dry out quickly on the piston, and better protection. But they don't have much difference
Not saying 5w-20 won't work, but where does it say th Elantra is designed to use 5w-20? I can see were it would have been tested using 5w-20, 5w-30, and 10w-30 in the appropriate temperature range since the owner's manual says you can use those grades. It does have a statement:

For better fuel economy , it recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5w-20.
You are right about not a lot of difference. My Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is close to being a 5w-20 weight. It is a thin 5w-30.

My situation is a little unusual. I overbought oil for a oil burning car I did not expect to sell. So most of my 7+ year supply of oil is 30 weight so my Elantra will get that whether is likes it or not. :grin2:
 

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I'm running 5W-20 Castrol with a OE filter. I change it every 3K miles. I don't drive in extreme conditions that would require a heavier oil so I go for better fuel mileage and cold weather starting lubrication. My last car was an 02 Accord with 150K and still going. It had 5W-20 Castrol and Fram filter its 100K miles with me, again changed every 3K. Changing the oil often is more important than minor differences in grade. I get to use my oil over stock up on my pick up, but that takes years to hit 3K. Yes, I'm a crazy man and change my oil based on mileage and not time so I don't do six oil changes on my truck before it hits 3K. So I'd use your oil stash and not worry about it. I've used Fram filters for over 40 years. I've been using Fram XG on our Sonata with 0W-20 Mobil 1 Synthetic without problem for 6yrs/65K miles. It's changed every 6K, taking advantage of the Synthetic oil. It's a hybrid so we go for gas mileage.
 

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Use any of Castrol's synthetics for more quiet engine.
Castrol Edge and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was pretty quiet in a Lexus RX300. Mobil 1 was less quiet, but that is subjective, not scientific.

I'm running 5W-20 Castrol with a OE filter. I change it every 3K miles. I don't drive in extreme conditions that would require a heavier oil so I go for better fuel mileage and cold weather starting lubrication. My last car was an 02 Accord with 150K and still going. It had 5W-20 Castrol and Fram filter its 100K miles with me, again changed every 3K. Changing the oil often is more important than minor differences in grade. I get to use my oil over stock up on my pick up, but that takes years to hit 3K. Yes, I'm a crazy man and change my oil based on mileage and not time so I don't do six oil changes on my truck before it hits 3K. So I'd use your oil stash and not worry about it. I've used Fram filters for over 40 years. I've been using Fram XG on our Sonata with 0W-20 Mobil 1 Synthetic without problem for 6yrs/65K miles. It's changed every 6K, taking advantage of the Synthetic oil. It's a hybrid so we go for gas mileage.
Tig1 at BITOG has been using Mobil 1 0w-20 EP at 10k intervals with great success in his Ford Fusion. He goes 200k miles with no issue. He has been doing 10k intervals 40 years.

The RX300 was replaced by and RX350. Toyota is doing 0w-20 10k miles or yearly oil changes. It seems a quality synthetic with longer drain intervals is the way things are going with some car companies.

But since Hyundai requires frequent oil changes when you are severe service I can and will do that. It will be interesting to see if smoothness/noise in the 2.0 Elantra engine changes a lot with different oils. It seems the nature of the engine is smooth unless you push it.
 

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Dealer is well aware that I prefer to do my own maintenance, doesn't mind at all, not too many do this. Keep good records, and just follow the maintenance that came with that brochure. Use only Hyundai filters and their recommended motor oil.

Life is already too complicated, no problems with the PT warranty. Also do a little extra things, always spill oil when removing that filter, clean that up inside the engine under cover. Spay all those rubber bushings with silicone, don't just glance at my brake pads, relubricate them, wheels are torqued at precisely 94 ft-lbs. Air and cabin filters are checked without breaking tabs, engine compression is checked, expect to see exactly 185 psi, spark plugs are cleaned, want those those center electrode insulators to be white and properly gapped. This list goes on. Yeah that drain plug get a new gasket.

Ha, know enough not to touch those AC ports for pressure readings, With the stupid EPA with quick coupling ports, depressing those valves would not properly seat again. As long as the AC is blowing cold, better off just to leave it. Al Gore should be in prison.
 

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I'm running 5W-20 Castrol with a OE filter. I change it every 3K miles. I don't drive in extreme conditions that would require a heavier oil so I go for better fuel mileage and cold weather starting lubrication.
Just a couple of points ...

I'm running 5W-30 instead of 5W20 due to possible fuel dilution with the GDI engine at 5K OCI. If it weren't GDI or I was doing 3K OCI, 5W20 would probably be fine (and probably is fine at 5K OCI with GDI also, but I'd rather err on the side of caution).

Not all oils are equal, but in theory, 5W20 and 5W30 should have IDENTICAL cold weather starting lubrication. 0W30 would be better in colder weather and 10W30 would be worse in cold weather. 5W30 SHOULD be thicker and provide better protection at OPERATING temperature (100-d C), regardless of ambient temperature.
 

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NicolasD,

I was proud of myself that I changed my oil myself. I am pretty impressed with what you are comfortable and capable of doing.

Tiger-Heli,

Bulk Castrol 10w-30 was used for 7 years on my 1993 Sentra I bought used. Cranked slow in winter, but worked. It is nice Hyundai gives a lot of options for oil so you can pick the oil appropriate for your climate. What works for me may not be appropriate for someone in a colder or hotter climate.
 

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Ha, when I was dumped on this planet without say only straight viscosity oils were available. If you left 40W oil in the winter months, starter would barely turn the engine over, use to use 6 volts. 10W would be way too thin in the summer. When we had a real oil pressure gauge would be much lower.

But is was said about multi-viscosity oils, 10-30W would never as thin as real 10W nor 30 would be as thick as 30W. Not hearing much of this anymore.

12V and FI sure made a difference in cold weather starting, just too easy for a person to flood their carb.

This guy knows what he is talking about.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php

For, whatever Hyundai wants, Hyundai gets, its all in the owners manual
 

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We own a 2012 Sonata Hybrid that just turned over 130k miles. Since the 10k oil change, I've been running 10k oci using Mobil 1 EP 5w-20 and NAPA Platinum filters without any issues.
 

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We own a 2012 Sonata Hybrid that just turned over 130k miles. Since the 10k oil change, I've been running 10k oci using Mobil 1 EP 5w-20 and NAPA Platinum filters without any issues.
Ha, put 330K miles on my 1965 Buick Electra using straight viscosity Quaker State motor oil and Fram oil filters, still looked like a new vehicle in 1974, but in 1975, studded snow tires were banned and started dumping road salt. in 1975, bad body rust, sold it to another guy, he didn't mine the rust, I was ashamed to drive it.

The warranty on that Buick was 12,000 miles or 1 year, whichever came first, my warranty was up in five months. So no concerns on what I used.

Put 230K miles on my 1985 Honda Accord SEI using multi-viscosity oil, still conventional, darn good runner, dumped that after 8 years, was really a bad pile of rust.

With Honda, had to use Honda brake, PS, and AT fluids, anything else would end up with leaks, didn't care what kind of filter or engine oil you used.

This is the same old story with many vehicles, trying not to write a book.

With ABS, better flush it at least no longer than three years, will gum up the valves, better be two years maximum. Can't find a spot to pour in PS fluid, claim the AT fluid the way I drive is around 160K miles.

So why are we talking about motor oil and filters? My only concern now is keeping Hyundai happy, just in case.
 

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Ha, put 330K miles on my 1965 Buick Electra using straight viscosity Quaker State motor oil and Fram oil filters, still looked like a new vehicle in 1974, but in 1975, studded snow tires were banned and started dumping road salt. in 1975, bad body rust, sold it to another guy, he didn't mine the rust, I was ashamed to drive it.

The warranty on that Buick was 12,000 miles or 1 year, whichever came first, my warranty was up in five months. So no concerns on what I used.

Put 230K miles on my 1985 Honda Accord SEI using multi-viscosity oil, still conventional, darn good runner, dumped that after 8 years, was really a bad pile of rust.

With Honda, had to use Honda brake, PS, and AT fluids, anything else would end up with leaks, didn't care what kind of filter or engine oil you used.

This is the same old story with many vehicles, trying not to write a book.

With ABS, better flush it at least no longer than three years, will gum up the valves, better be two years maximum. Can't find a spot to pour in PS fluid, claim the AT fluid the way I drive is around 160K miles.

So why are we talking about motor oil and filters? My only concern now is keeping Hyundai happy, just in case.
Guys were asking about oil viscosity, brands, filters, etc. Thought I'd give my experience.

If we're bragging, I'll throw in my 1990 Dodge D350 with over 500k on the original motor (OK, it is a Cummins) and automatic transmission. No rebuilds on either.

Mine's way outside of warranty at this point, so I no longer care about keeping Hyundai happy, just the wife....
 

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I prefer 5w-30 and I'll explain why, but let us clear up a few things here.

First, even in the most controlled of environments, you would have a hard time proving that 5W-30 is quieter than a 5W-20. Now, there may be some variances between brands, but again, there's not any data to support that. I would be wary of people who claim to know that a certain oil made their car run quieter. I have opinions on which oil is quieter in my car, but I always preface it by saying "in my opinion". If noise is a concern, run different brands and record your observations. Then go with the one you found to be the most quiet.

Second, wear rates may differ between XW-20 and XW-30, but you are talking about a few parts per million difference. Ultimately, either oil will serve your car just fine. I wouldn't expect any car that ran on 20 to last any discernible amount of time less than a car that ran on 30.

Third, be careful of getting too caught up in things. Sites like BITOG are extremely useful and offer a wealth of knowledge and data, but you can get lost in all of that and start questioning everything. One second you will be worried about viscosity, then you'll be worried about base stocks, then you'll move on to add packs, and so on and so forth. Pick an oil you like and go with it. Chances are, your engine will not notice any difference at all.

Now, I do prefer Amsoil 5W-30. I've used that brand for a long time and that's what I stick with. I run 5W-30 because my other car uses that same viscosity of oil, so I can just pick up one type of oil and run it in both vehicles. It makes things simple and I find that our cars are sufficiently quiet and wearing well within universal averages. Best of luck to you.
 

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Ha, only live 110 miles from the Amsoil plant, so why aren't I using it? Simple, because its not sold in stores, least around here, have to go to a guys private home to purchase it.

Kind of reminds me of Amway, wife's friend invited us for dinner, tried to sell us laundry detergent, said what we were using is made from corn stalks.

Amsoil is not on the GM dexos list, 200 other brands are.

Ha, buy my motor oil from a grocery store and a good share of our groceries from a gas station, same stuff, lower prices.
 
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