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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2009 with a 3.3 that recently had fuel level sending unit changed and now I have a intermittent no start condition
Starts and drives great but every once in a while when u turn the key it will role over but won't fire
Sometimes it will start and then quit and then won't start
If you turn the key off the. Back on it will start
I'm not sure if the sending unit work is related
Thoughts ?
 

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This wouldn't be related to the work done, but check the chassis ground from the neg. battery connector.
 

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This is a good suggestion because you can have a good hi current connection to crank the engine but a poor ground for the electronic controls.
This wouldn't be related to the work done, but check the chassis ground from the neg. battery connector.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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This is what we see if the fuel pump has a problem - cranks but doesn't start. If the work on the fuel level sender was on the left side where the fuel pump is located, make sure there wasn't something left undone at the pump on either the electrical connector or around the hoses.


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Discussion Starter #7
So it turns out it's the immobiliser that's the culprit.
Now just trying to determine where the problem lies .
Is it often a key problem ?
 

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So it turns out it's the immobiliser that's the culprit.
In your opening post you said the engine would sometimes start then quit. Once the engine has started the immobiliser doesn't do anything so it wont cause the engine to quit once it's started.

What pointed you towards the immob?
 

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Please fill in all the fields in your profile marked with a yellow pencil icon. If we knew you were in Canada, somebody might have suggested the immobilizer a little sooner.


We need to know!


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Everyone should fill the Profile signature on any board. Its extremely useful to anyone offering to help. Details are all key in any diagnostics as are facts!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Everyone should fill the Profile signature on any board. Its extremely useful to anyone offering to help. Details are all key in any diagnostics as are facts!!!
Sorry
Just filled it in
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In your opening post you said the engine would sometimes start then quit. Once the engine has started the immobiliser doesn't do anything so it wont cause the engine to quit once it's started.

What pointed you towards the immob?
Took it to a shop where they scanned it
Came up with a code for immobilzer
Now that I know what it is , I can see that it doesn't start when the light isn't on on the dash
 

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Now that I know what it is , I can see that it doesn't start when the light isn't on on the dash
There are quite a few posts dotted about the forums relating to this issue. One fix that seems to work for most folk is to remove the connector between the ring antenna (the antenna that reads the signal from the key) and the SMARTRA unit (the key signal amplifier). It seems a thin layer of corrosion can build up on the terminals of the connector causing a resistance that is high enough to stop the very low voltage key signal from passing to the amplifier. Cutting the wires on either side of the connector and soldering them together eliminates the resistance and allows the key signal to pass again.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
There are quite a few posts dotted about the forums relating to this issue. One fix that seems to work for most folk is to remove the connector between the ring antenna (the antenna that reads the signal from the key) and the SMARTRA unit (the key signal amplifier). It seems a thin layer of corrosion can build up on the terminals of the connector causing a resistance that is high enough to stop the very low voltage key signal from passing to the amplifier. Cutting the wires on either side of the connector and soldering them together eliminates the resistance and allows the key signal to pass again.

Can someone direct me to where in the car this is located
 

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In the diagram above 'A' is the part around the ignition key slot that says "LOCK, ACC, ON, START".
 
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