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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read the write up on how to remove the stereo to tap into the wiring for the speakers so you can get a line out converter working.

Since I have to find a different place for the remote, and I'm getting 12V straight from the battery, do I need to take out the stereo?

Couldnt I just get wire the line out converter to one of the back speakers? Sounds like a whole lot easier time this way.
 

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You still need to tap the switched 12v from the HU in addition to the positive you already have, to have the amp power on and off from the HU being turned on and off. Otherwise, the Amp will be on all the time, and drain your battery.

To answer your question though, yes, you could tap the speakers instead of at the HU. In the Sedan, it's easiest to get all of the wires before the amp in your passenger side trunk. There is a nice install thread that would help a lot.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-m...-amplifier-install-setup-step-step-guide.html
 

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If you have the OEM amp in the trunk like myself (Limited) you can run your line out converter from that, no need to run any wires to the back of the stereo.
 

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Has anyone installed a powered sub anywhere in a 2013 Elantra? If so, where did you put it and which model did you use? I know Infinity and Clarion make a powered sub.
 

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I have this in my trunk:
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics

Very pleased with it, though it is large-ish...the 10-inch probably would've been sufficient. Bought the sub and a power cable kit and hired a shop to put it in for me. They attached the remote/gain control to the bottom of the dash, above the driver footwell...keeps it out of the way, but I can still reach down and tweak it.

I also upgraded to Infinity speakers all around, but kept the oem amp. Now that I've had this setup for a while, I'm wishing I'd bought an unpowered sub and an separate amp, as the crap oem amp does not drive the Infinitys as loudly as I would like.

Good luck with your setup...regardless of how you go, I'm sure it'll be better than the oem setup by quite a bit. Be sure to grab the amp's wiring diagram off of https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You still need to tap the switched 12v from the HU in addition to the positive you already have, to have the amp power on and off from the HU being turned on and off. Otherwise, the Amp will be on all the time, and drain your battery.

To answer your question though, yes, you could tap the speakers instead of at the HU. In the Sedan, it's easiest to get all of the wires before the amp in your passenger side trunk. There is a nice install thread that would help a lot.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-m...-amplifier-install-setup-step-step-guide.html
I dont have the limited system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You still need to tap the switched 12v from the HU in addition to the positive you already have, to have the amp power on and off from the HU being turned on and off. Otherwise, the Amp will be on all the time, and drain your battery.

To answer your question though, yes, you could tap the speakers instead of at the HU. In the Sedan, it's easiest to get all of the wires before the amp in your passenger side trunk. There is a nice install thread that would help a lot.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-m...-amplifier-install-setup-step-step-guide.html
I was just going to put a jumper into a fuse in the fuse box thats at ACC. Probably the same fuse that controls the radio's power.
 

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I was just going to put a jumper into a fuse in the fuse box thats at ACC. Probably the same fuse that controls the radio's power.
If you do that and you have the car on and the radio off, why have the amp on?

Other way when you turn the radio on and off regardless of the key the amp will power on and off.
 

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Two questions...
1. How do I know if I have the external amp in the trunk or not? I have a 2013 Limited.
2. Has anyone installed a powered sub to the back of the back seat rather than under the driver's seat? And I don't mean a big enclosure in the trunk. I mean one that will fit under the seat.
 

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Two questions...
1. How do I know if I have the external amp in the trunk or not? I have a 2013 Limited.
2. Has anyone installed a powered sub to the back of the back seat rather than under the driver's seat? And I don't mean a big enclosure in the trunk. I mean one that will fit under the seat.
I first tested my compact sub in the trunk. Too muffled and weak. Reason why I relocated it to under the seat. The clarity is one big reason I liked it in the cabin and not in the trunk.
 

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I first tested my compact sub in the trunk. Too muffled and weak. Reason why I relocated it to under the seat. The clarity is one big reason I liked it in the cabin and not in the trunk.
My concern is having heat blowing directly on the subwoofer. Did you reroute the vent under the seat in any way? Also, is the space under the Limited seat the same as the GLS? I am not too keen on finding the correct wires to tap into either. Running power to the battery should not be a problem but does that mean the sub will be on all the time?
 

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My concern is having heat blowing directly on the subwoofer. Did you reroute the vent under the seat in any way? Also, is the space under the Limited seat the same as the GLS? I am not too keen on finding the correct wires to tap into either. Running power to the battery should not be a problem but does that mean the sub will be on all the time?
Your sub amp will have 3 power connections. These would be +, _ , and a switched which is generally a thin blue wire that connects to the HU to turn the amp on and off when it is powered on and off.

My limited wouldn't accommodate the sub I bought, but it wasn't this Kenwood. It wasn't the height that was a problem though, but the length.
 
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