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Discussion Starter #1
I put a new battery in my 2004 sonata v6, now I can't get it to start. Won't turn over, makes no noise when I turn key to start. Everything electrical works, just not my car.
And if that wasn't bad enough, my fob took a crap, soooo I ordered a new one tried to reprogram it to my car, and guess what? It too won't work...

CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME?
 

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you have to tell us more.
- Was it a brand new battery, that did not sit around for weeks?
- Did you have any signs of starting problems before this?
- Who installed your battery?
- Was there any light dimming when you push/turn the start switch?

You need to make sure the battery was near full charge, you cannot assume.
Right now you need to eliminate:
1) Weak discharged battery.
If it was a weak the car may start if you have a jumper battery or another car to jump start.
2) Battery installed wrong.

Try shifting in and out of Park a few times. There is a chance the car thinks it is not in Park.
 

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2007 Honda CRV
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Take a test light and put the clip on battery neg post
Take the probe end and stick it on the engine block
Have assistant crank engine
If test light glows then bad ground or high resistance on cables

Assuming the battery was installed correctly, try cleaning the terminals on the new battery
Also clean the cable ends, connectors, and for good measure, clean the engine grounding points
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I bought a brand new battery that I had a mechanic friend installed for me. Ive since replaced the starter, tune-up, checked all relays, cleaned all terminals.
I strongly believe it had to do with my alarm system. Before replacing the battery, my car would at least crank over (took 4 attempts) but it would start. Once I put the new one, nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, My FOB died, so I bought a new OEM one online, I reset the alarm system (behind radio), FOB worked at first then stopped.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Maybe a START relay bypass test will get the engine cranking.

Put the shifter in P/N and switch the ignition on.
Remove the START relay from the engine bay fusebox...see below
Use a short link wire to bridge the 30 & 87 terminals on the relay socket on the fusebox.
I've marked the positions of the terminals on the photo.
With a bit of luck, your engine should crank over and hopefully start.
As soon as the engine starts, remove the link from the fusebox.

Post back and let us know if the bypass test makes it crank.

Regards.
Scott.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for all the help. I had replaced the starter worked for a minute, then nothing. It would turn over then die, I started looking through the fuses and found the alternator and starter fuse were bad. I replaced them and I was back and running, but again didn't last long. My alternator fuse keeps burning out, I pop the hood and noticed there is a wire behind the alternator that seem to have came pulled out. Does anyone have a wire diagram
 

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Discussion Starter #8
While I was in the engine elbow deep in grease I changed the spark plugs, wires, valve cover gasket (long over do). If that matters.
 

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My alternator fuse keeps burning out, I pop the hood and noticed there is a wire behind the alternator that seem to have came pulled out. Does anyone have a wire diagram
I assume your talking about the 10Amp alternator fuse?
That fuse is for the alternator battery sensing circuit. On the back of the alternator there should be a connector with 2 wires. One of those wires is supplied voltage by the alternator fuse. The other wire is for the battery warning light. You can identify the warning light wire easily. With the alternator fuse removed, switch the ignition on and disconnect the 2 wire connector from the alternator. Now use a link wire to connect each of the terminals of the connector to ground, one at a time. When you ground the warning light wire the battery light on the instrument cluster will illuminate. Having identified the warning light wire you now know the other is the sense wire that should be powered from the alternator fuse.....no diagram required.
 

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Seems like you've replaced a lot of parts in the process and now you're blowing fuses. Go back and make sure everything is connected properly, no wires are exposed and/or nothing looks green and corroded. Are there any codes being reported by any of the modules, you may get a clue there. There are also a ton of resources out there for a no crank no start situation that go over various diagnostics. You typically need a volt meter and/or test light but start with a visual inspection.
 

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It is starting to sound like the mechanic, who installed the battery, messed up the install
Don't know how but check the battery to make sure it is installed correctly.
 
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