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Discussion Starter #1
As i have had big problems with my santa fe and the last thing is the computer.

Can i swap the "injection computer box - G6EA- 39108-3E020" with another used one will the car start etc or do it need to be reprogrammed for the keys etc.
 

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I think all European models have a transponder key immobilizer so you can't simply swap one engine computer with another. You need to have the replacement engine computer paired with the vehicles immobilizer or the engine wont start.

I had a quick read through your other thread. Did your garage tell you which injectors had the weak current? Weak injector current might explain one bank being lean but I don't think that wouldn't explain why the other bank is showing rich.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
yes they told me the current was weak on #2 injector so i checked the contenuity and the ohm on the injector harness and found nothing strange. yes why bank 1 is running lean and bank 2 is rich i can't understand. i have checked or changed almost anything. My hyundai dealer will try to find the fault end of next week. Saw some ecu upgrades that had p0300 and p0301-6 and also something for rough idle.

I can't find anything else i could check for the misfires.
Changed fuel pump and filter.
Changed spark plugs.
Changed injector on #2
Moved the coil to se if the problem followed.
Changed main relay and the fuel pump relay (The car stopped priming a time ago)
Smoke tested for vacuum.
Checked the OCV as the TBS stated.
Changed the cps.
Changed the maf (The car does not throw fault codes when maf is unconnected)
Unconnected the Evap system to se if it got to much evap.
 

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What were the cylinder compression figures?

Also, something doesn't look right to me in your freeze frame data you posted on the other thread :

Torsson said:
-Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 3.1 %
-Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 11.7 %

-Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -2.3 %
-Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -14.1 %

-Bank 1 - Sensor 1 (O2S), Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage: 0.085 V
-Bank 1 - Sensor 1 (O2S), Short Term Fuel Trim: 3.1 %
-Bank 1 - Sensor 2 (O2S), Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage: 0.750 V
-Bank 1 - Sensor 2 (O2S), Short Term Fuel Trim: NA
-Bank 2 - Sensor 1 (O2S), Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage: 0.660 V
-Bank 2 - Sensor 1 (O2S), Short Term Fuel Trim: -2.3 %
-Bank 2 - Sensor 2 (O2S), Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage: 0.805 V
-Bank 2 - Sensor 2 (O2S), Short Term Fuel Trim: NA
You seem to have conflicting sensor signals on your two bank 1 O2 sensors. The fuel trims suggest the mixture is lean yet the down stream O2 is showing a rich condition. If the mixture upstream (sensor 1) is lean, it can't be rich downstream of the cat (sensor 2). Hard to tell what's going on with static freeze frame data but that would be something I'd be taking a closer look at.
 

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I'm pretty sure we asked about O2 sensors, and it seems that I recall (on some other page) that he confirmed that they had NOT been touched, but you have to wonder if for some other reason, the sensor connectors have been swapped. It just has that feel to it, in spite of what the history is supposed to have been.
 

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yes they told me the current was weak on #2 injector so i checked the contenuity and the ohm on the injector harness and found nothing strange.
Food for thought.

Take a copper strand, let's say 3 mils thick (That's like 3 human hairs). Put an ohm meter on it. Bet it says 0.000 or pretty close.

Now take 12ga wire, and ohm test that. 0.000.

Ok. Now envision 2 very simple circuits, constructed the same, but with each of the different wires. You have a 12v +lead going from the battery to the bulb. The a -lead from the bulb to the battery.

Which circuit lights up better? The one with the thicker wire, because it's capable of supplying the current flow needed.

My point? Resistance tests have their place, but not for loaded circuits like the one you have. If you have any stretched wiring, corroded/weak connections, etc. This is the same thing. Poor conductivity, even though it "ohms out ok".

I'm not saying you're wrong to ohm as a quick n dirty test, but a better test is a voltage drop. (Can get complicated with injectors, especially if you short it on accident).

Any chance to peek In that fuel rail?
 

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There IS a Hyundai impedance test for an injector .. no point arguing over methods when the standard exists per the OEM, and with a half decent meter and clean probes, there's no reason not to trust it as a starting point:

Coil resistance for each injector on the 2.7L petrol engine is 13.8~15.2 ohms measured at 20C.
I;d be checking for that at the injector's own connector, then seeing whether there's a significant increase in resistance (more than 25% or so, accounting for whatever bundle of wire runs between) taking the same measurement back at the ECU ... unplugged from the ECU , of course.

To others -- don't use that for a 3.3 ... they're different.
 

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There IS a Hyundai impedance test for an injector .. no point arguing over methods when the standard exists per the OEM.
jsvob03 is talking about testing the circuit wiring not the injector itself. And he's right, voltage drop testing is the best/correct method to test the wiring for high resistance regardless of what the manufacturer test plan might say. As jsvob03 says, voltage drop testing an injector circuit it a little more difficult due to the short duration of the injection pulse (unless you have an oscilloscope). Personally, I would put in the extra effort before advising someone to replace an expensive engine PCM.
 

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Yeah, I get it. That's what I was recommending as well ... end to end resistance test of the entire circuit including injector from the ECU connector, adding perhaps 25% to the nominal resistance of the injector itself to take into account some reasonable added resistance of wire and connector for the whole run. If the results were found to be any higher than that, I'd be worried and start looking around.

The easy only way to test current draw at home and to locate any weak links would be to provide a constant external12V (ECU disconnected) to the injector wiring from the ECU, and the injectors aren't designed for 100% duty cycle operation. For that reason, I'm not at all comfortable suggesting that If that weren't an issue, I'd go in series with the meter for a static current measurement with 12V applied at the ECU connector and work from there. But the length of time required to locate any high impedance portion of the line out and back might require that the 12V be applied for some significant period of time, perhaps damaging the injector due to overheating.

However, as an at-home no-scope DIY project, I'd consider an external power source of substantially less than 12V (perhaps in 1~2 volt range) to reduce the current on the injector, and a series meter for current as I started wiggling and searching.

I certainly agree that shotgunning the ECU is inappropriate at this time.
 

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Any remote start on this beast? I've seen the aftermarket guys tap into an injector wire (whichever is easiest for them) and cause problems with intermittent shorts, etc.

Just trying to think of the oddball stuff, as it appears were past the point of a simple ignition misfire.

On the injector resistance test, I'm okay with that, and you're right canderson, but would take it one step beyond. Get it warm. Like operating temperature warm by putting it in hot water (inside a sealed bag or some other way). Test it's resistance there too. Older Mitsubishi's had a problem with the IAC motor getting hot, and the coil windings shorting out when expanded, and killing the ecm/pcm.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
jsvob03. No i can't se anything changed except extra high beam lights. I will look more on the injectors tomorrow.

AUTOSPARK: i talked to the guy that did the compression test a few months ago and he did not write it down and "He did not have any figures about what it was supposed to be so he did a reference test on a 04 2.7L with no problems and mine was better". so i bought my self a compression test today and the figures does not look to good. kg/cm2 #2: 9.5 #4: 8.7 #6: 10 and what i can se is that its supposed to be min 10.5 so maby there is some engine damage.

But what i can't figure out is why compression would do this to the fuel trims but i am not a expert in engines.

Here is some figures with the car in idle. and the o2 looks strange. as does rich/lean on opposit banks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can't se how anybody could have had the o2 sensors wrong as o2 up and downstream are different color on the connection and can't se anywhere it is posible to accidentally connect them wrong on bank 1 and 2
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have forgoten to mention. When i was at the MOT or what it is called (veichle inspection) about 2 weeks ago they could not se any strange exaust emission test no high CO or HC or nothing. just the error codes and that is enough to get failed in sweden
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also when i looked at the plugs on bank 2 #2 #4 #6 they all looked like they are running lean but fuel trims says rich?.. i have not checked the plugs at bank 1 becaus i dont want to take everything apart
 

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But what i can't figure out is why compression would do this to the fuel trims but i am not a expert in engines.
Your compressions are not only below the lower service limit (10.7 kgf/cm2) but they also exceed the maximum difference your allowed between cylinders (1.0kgf/cm2). Uneven compressions between cylinders is likely the cause of your misfire trouble codes. Also, if there isn't complete combustion of the fuel that's being injected into the cylinders the unburnt fuel is passed into the exhaust which might be the cause of the O2 sensors to showing a rich condition on that bank of cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Your compressions are not only below the lower service limit (10.7 kgf/cm2) but they also exceed the maximum difference your allowed between cylinders (1.0kgf/cm2). Uneven compressions between cylinders is likely the cause of your misfire trouble codes. Also, if there isn't complete combustion of the fuel that's being injected into the cylinders the unburnt fuel is passed into the exhaust which might be the cause of the O2 sensors to showing a rich condition on that bank of cylinders.
Yes it seems to be the problem. but why does it not throw any misfire codes when driving? is it the vacuum affecting?. This engine does not look like a easy task to take apart. but i will se what my hyundai dealer says on thursday.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
canderson. Read what you said in the other thread. I will be posting here untill the issue is fixed :).

I am hoping that my lazyness to not remove the bank 1 spark plugs on the compression test made the compression a bit lower, i belive RPM is supposed to be 250 when preforming a compression test but that was hard to tell on the rpm gauge what the rpm, but i don't belive that should do that much different, just my wishes..

Ill post here tomorrow when i get the "death notice" of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Merry christmas to me. The ECU is fried. it shorts out the ground to injector #2 and something more becaus the ecu does not send out priming signal and a new one costs about 2000 euro installed.

Thanks for everybodys help :)
 

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As rare as ECU failures are, I'd be looking for one in what we call a 'junkyard' here. Let the dealer sort out the VIN issue and manage the rest of the work yourself or at an independent shop.
 
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