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Discussion Starter #1
Have 2015 sedan, but asking opinion of 2017-18 owners.

My Elantra seems like it wants to drift on highway and also feels like it’s an airplane preparing for liftoff.

Recently test drove 2018 Elantra GT, and it seemed very good. But rather than rely on my own 20 minute test (and mine is sedan), am hoping someone who drove 2013-2016 edition and now drives 2017+, can share whether they feel improvement.

Had a 2005 Elantra before purchasing 2015, and the ride on that car was STILL good when I traded it. No traction issues

Thanks for any feedback.

LS
 

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Covering the bases.
How many miles on your '15 E?
Any recent work done on the car?
As a fellow Midwesterner- hit any big potholes recently? If so might want to have suspension checked by a mechanic you trust.
I assume tire pressure is OK (low can cause poor handling)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
suspension and tires are good (to my knowledge)

Thank you for your reply.

Car has almost 43,000 miles (original owner) and no work done recently or at all on the suspension, and the problem has existed from day 1 (or at least the first day it was ever driven on the expressway---my bad for not doing so during the test drive).

Has not gotten worse nor better. Just more noticeable on the highway at certain times and in between, when it's "behaving" itself, I tend to forget about it. Then all of a sudden on a trip, I end up having to frequently adjust the steering wheel to keep my car within the lines and I get upset with it all over again.

Have added Continental Pure Contact tires (replaced the original Hankook tires), and visited my Hyundai dealer several times in the car's first year, but they did not have the answer. Also have a very good and longstanding relationship with my mechanic, and asked if there was anything I could buy on the aftermarket to improve on the suspension, figuring even if it was expensive, would still be less than a new car. And I LIKE my Elantra otherwise. Unfortunately, the mechanic did not know of anything that he could promise would work.

And nope... have not hit and substantial potholes lately. It's not that I am perfect and that doesn't happen, but not recently. And the car is not pulling to either side anyway. The steering is just a loose style and you need to constantly make corrections. And I have tried all three of the steering modes too.

Dropping the tire pressure from the recommended 35 pounds to 33 pounds helps a little, but not dramatically, and not sure how much lower to go without sacrificing other types of handling by the tires.

Still very open to suggestions as it sure seems like a design flaw to me, and that's the only reason I'm considering trading the car in. it's paid for and I really don't want to go through the upheaval and take on car payments ---even for a nice new car. But each time I get the "light and airy" feel on the highway, I start considering a replacement.


Covering the bases.
How many miles on your '15 E?
Any recent work done on the car?
As a fellow Midwesterner- hit any big potholes recently? If so might want to have suspension checked by a mechanic you trust.
I assume tire pressure is OK (low can cause poor handling)
 

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I do not have much seat time behind the wheel of the prev gen E's, but the '17-18's seem significantly quieter and smoother riding. I find my 17 E Limited (17" wheels/ProContact tires) to be very stable on the highway as fast as I care to drive (though I have not had it above 80). I think it feels more solid on the road than trim levels with the 15 or 16" tires.
With only 43k miles, more years of factory warranty, and otherwise liking the car, if you have 15 or 16" wheels you might consider a wheel/tire upgrade.
If you haven't had the car back to the dealer for this since year 1, it might be worth taking it back in. Something may have developed. Have you checked to see if there is a TSB for suspension issues on your car?
You can check for Recalls here:
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues
https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2015/HYUNDAI/ELANTRA/4%2520DR/FWD#manufacturerCommunications
It seems Hyundai did extend the warranty on one steering component on the 15 E's
"February 27, 2017 MANUFACTURER COMMUNICATION NUMBER: 5NP-F8M5G-03
Components: STEERING, EQUIPMENT
NHTSA ID Number: 10110926
Manufacturer Communication Number: 5NP-F8M5G-03
Summary
Hyundai has announced an extended warranty for the motor driven power steering (MDPS) coupling on the following vehicles:
2011-2014 Sonata (YFa), 2011-2014 Sonata Hybrid (YF HEV)
2007-2015 Elantra (HD, MD/UD), 2009-2012 Elantra Touring (FD)
The MDPS been extended to 10 years from the date of original delivery or the date of first use, or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to all original and subsequent owners of the affected vehicles."




Before investing in ANY new (or used) car, I would carefully test drive INCLUDING on the highway to make sure you like it . Most any lighter compact is going to be affected more by winds (like crosswinds, 18-wheelers) and a heavier (and lower mpg) vehicle.
 

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I can only speak to my daughters '16 Elantra SE. When we got it (with 18K miles) it drove good, but not as good as my '14 Elantra GT. I added a secondary rear stabilizer bar to mine (Progress Technology) and saw improved handling. So we added one to hers (the sedan does not come with any rear stabilizer bar) and it made a HUGE difference in handling and stability.

It's a very easy DIY and take less than an hour to install. Costs about $165. I think Pierce Motorsports makes one for this car also. I added the photo of the brake line mount. One of these on each side behind the wheel on a GT, probably the same on a sedan. Take that bolt out to make sure you don't stress the brake line when following the directions on installation that come with the bar.
 

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I had a 16. Have an 18 sport now. I’ve noticed the car is much more planted and doesn’t get tossed around by Semis nearly as much. Obviously with the IRS on my sport it’s going to handle a ton better vs torsion beam rear suspension.

But yeah I’d test drive on the freeway at least up to 70-75 mph to see how it handles.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Was car put on an alignment rack? First thing that is checked is for slop, inner or outer tie rods can be sloppy, even the yoke, not only the front, but the rears as well, has control rods.

Toe in is checked, if you have insufficient toe in, car will drift, caster is also responsible for tracking, if not within specifications, something is bent, and not very much.

Lastly but not least, if the car tends to pull either to the left or the right, reverse the front tires to learn if the pulling changes, could be a broken belt in one of the tires, or not even vulcanized correctly in the first place, so they have to be replaced.

Good alignment guy can find things like this, another problem, finding a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As mentioned, tires were replaced, but still original rim sizes and everything else is original equipment. In the first year, I inquired about better aftermarket shocks and I like the idea of adding a stabilizer bar, but nobody that I talked to (my regular mechanic, the dealer, and friends at work that so some of their own work) was very encouraging about such remedies.








The alignment has been checked multiple times and no problems found. And I've driven cars with alignment issues before, and the symptoms don't seem the same. It's as if the car is just a tad too light. Or too light in the wrong places, and there's not enough weight over the wheels, whether it's bouncing about at lower speeds or preparing for liftoff on the expressway or tollway.


Some days I am certain I am trading my car in (for 2018), and others I am abandoning that idea.




And if I go for a 2018, am curious about differences in drive-ability between the Sedan, GT, and GT Sport. But that should be a separate thread, I think.
 

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It's the difference of sedan and hatch. I have also tested drive both before got the 2018 Sport sedan. The hatch is firmer and a little bit more steering wheel feeling.
 

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We had a '13 sedan before trading to the '17. Its much improved in many areas but in terms of your problem, the '13 seemed like it would jump sometimes while cornering and hitting a bump at the same time. The '17 is solid on the road.
 

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I have not driven any other Elantras except my 2017 GL. All I can say that on the highways at high speeds it tracks as if it is on rails... And this is at 180+ kph and it could go even faster if I was not worried about getting a speeding ticket. Note that I tend to stay at speed most cars are at (usually around 20kph over the limit or 120kph in the highways here in Southern Ontario) but on rare occasions, when all is clear (no other cars) I tend to floor it because I believe there is nothing better than cleaning the valves, etc., of deposits than putting the pedal to the metal. I also tend to floor it when merging from ramps to the highways as I believe there is no better way to get the engine in shape than wringing it up from time to time.

I did this (clean deposits via flooring the pedal to the metal) on occasion when all is clear to my Corolla and the car lasted 21 years... When the junkyard guy picked it up, the Corolla's engine was still strong but the body and chassis were falling apart due to rust.

I have also driven the Elantra (especially when I was breaking it in) on rolling and/or twisty two lane country roads and it felt assured and stable... I was not just cruising either.

Sample of country road rolling hills where I broke in my Elantra...





 

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Ha, darn near got a speeding ticket on my 88 Supra went it was new and parked. Governed at 167 mph, see Kia came out with a car like this, 167 mph. Depending on where I drive in town, speed limits are as low as 10 mph, and strictly enforced.

Use to dream back in the 50's reading all those automotive magazines, but the year 2000, will be driving at 300 mph! Just in the last two years, finally can drive at 70 mph again on some interstates, this died in 1974, try driving from Wisconsin to Seattle at 55 mph and stay awake while doing so.

State roads weren't too bad 50 years ago, hit a town two blocks long, one block wide, now some are four miles long, still one block wide, 25 mph, and most have 35 mph limits a mile before and after before hitting 55 again, use to be 65 mph. Ha, use to drive 80 but before the invented radar. If you saw a cop, had to trail you and clock you, if half awake, will slow down until they got bored.

They call this progress. Did a lot of airline travel back then, with a change, could pay cash and board the plane 5 minutes before it took off, now three hours waiting in line. More progress, could drop in a large V-8, now can get into deep trouble by changing a light bulb. More progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank youeveryone. My first dilemma is whether I am truly ready to invest in an anew car, only 3 years into this one (that was supposed to be a 10 year stint).But the posts to this thread are reassuring as to my other concern, which waswhether my evaluation of my own test drive of the GT was accurate, or if I wasat best trying to justify a new car purchase and at worst making the samemistake over again.---Of course I never drove my 2015 at high speeds untilafter I bought it, so that's how I got here.


It sounds REALLYstupid in hindsight as I'm typing, but I had driven a rental 2015 GT for 2weeks (including highway driving), and didn't realize how significant thedifference between that car and the Sedan was.


IF I do plungeahead and buy a 2018, I still have to decide between the GT and the GTSport. I know the GT has a torsion bar suspension and the Sport hasindependent suspension which should be better, but both seemed superior to my2015 Sedan. I'll need to drive both at various speeds to see the difference (havedriven the Sport on snow on the side streets and the GT on the Highway so far).And the pricing and bundling of features either deliberately or accidentallyresults in very similar prices for both GT and Sport by the time all optionsare selected.
 

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It is unfortunate that Hyundai dropped the IRS after the XD series (did the 2007-2010 sedan have IRS?) and the Touring. My Touring with the suspension package and Conti Extreme Contact DWS was amazing in its handling.

If you want to stay with OEM parts and still get a better shock, check the Hyundai PN 55300-A5800. This is the shock used on the Elantra GT (GD series) with the factory suspension package which includes the 17" wheels. It *should* fit perfectly and is a MUCH better shock than the sedan shock. Stronger gas charge, a little stiffer ride.
 

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Ha, darn near got a speeding ticket on my 88 Supra went it was new and parked. Governed at 167 mph, see Kia came out with a car like this, 167 mph. Depending on where I drive in town, speed limits are as low as 10 mph, and strictly enforced.

Use to dream back in the 50's reading all those automotive magazines, but the year 2000, will be driving at 300 mph! Just in the last two years, finally can drive at 70 mph again on some interstates, this died in 1974, try driving from Wisconsin to Seattle at 55 mph and stay awake while doing so.

State roads weren't too bad 50 years ago, hit a town two blocks long, one block wide, now some are four miles long, still one block wide, 25 mph, and most have 35 mph limits a mile before and after before hitting 55 again, use to be 65 mph. Ha, use to drive 80 but before the invented radar. If you saw a cop, had to trail you and clock you, if half awake, will slow down until they got bored.

They call this progress. Did a lot of airline travel back then, with a change, could pay cash and board the plane 5 minutes before it took off, now three hours waiting in line. More progress, could drop in a large V-8, now can get into deep trouble by changing a light bulb. More progress.
The top speed of the 2017 Elantra 2.0 liter Auto in the US appears to be governed at 195 kph / 120 mph although the first video below shows it hitting 207 kph. The second video below shows a 2017 Elantra 2.0 liter manual (no governor) hitting 223 kph / 139 mph.

Auto, apparently with governor... 207 kph:

Manual, no governor... 223 kph:

One of these days I will have to see if my Elantra has a governor or not but this will have to wait as I just got a speeding ticket the other weekend when I headed to the highway to dry out my newly washed car. :|

 

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If stock, that has to be the fastest 147HP Elantra on the planet. Or they are not running stock size tires. Could it be that is the 201HP 1.6T?

The GD series with 173HP has been tested by Car and Driver and Motor Trend and instrumented 129MPH and 131MPH.

The governor thing is interesting. I have seen documented "governed to 122MPH" and "drag limited". In the past Hyundai would determine the top speed, drag limited, and just put the appropriate speed rated tires on the car. Chevy took it a step further with the Z28 Camaro back in the '90's. If you ordered the car with all the performance goodies, you got Z rated tires and no governor. Otherwise you got 168MPH tires and a governor at around 148MPH.
 

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Correction... I just re-read the comments on youtube and the car on the second video is actually an automatic but driven in manual mode... Shifting was using the "tiptronic" manual mode. Most likely not an Elantra sport due to the placement of the temp and fuel gauges. Not sure if it the car has been modded but there is no comment saying so in the video.

EDIT: The engine is the stock 2.0 liter according to the poster in one of his comments:

 
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