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Hi, I have an 08 Getz that has been having intermittent faults with the immobilizer. When the ignition key is turned to the on position the immobilizer warning light will flash once and the engine is ready to start. However very often the warning light will flash 5 times and then the engine will crank but not start.

The owners manual says that if the immobilizer warning light flashes 5 times it has a fault and needs to be taken back to the dealer. The first time returned to the dealer they couldn't find anything wrong( at that stage it had not been discovered it was an immobilizer fault), the second time they reset " the immobilizer" and it was fine up until 3 months ago.

Again we are having the same problem and it's getting progressively worse with many attempts to start. It has been back to the dealer and they reprogrammed the keys and replaced 1 key. On picking it up from the dealer the same no start fault occurred in their car park so we are back to square one.

Has anyone here had any experience with this problem?
 

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Getz intermittent starting

Hi, I have an 08 Getz that has been having intermittent faults with the immobilizer. When the ignition key is turned to the on position the immobilizer warning light will flash once and the engine is ready to start. However very often the warning light will flash 5 times and then the engine will crank but not start.

The owners manual says that if the immobilizer warning light flashes 5 times it has a fault and needs to be taken back to the dealer. The first time returned to the dealer they couldn't find anything wrong( at that stage it had not been discovered it was an immobilizer fault), the second time they reset " the immobilizer" and it was fine up until 3 months ago.

Again we are having the same problem and it's getting progressively worse with many attempts to start. It has been back to the dealer and they reprogrammed the keys and replaced 1 key. On picking it up from the dealer the same no start fault occurred in their car park so we are back to square one.

Has anyone here had any experience with this problem?
My wife's 2008 Getz had this starting problem which required her to make many attempts first thing in the morning. It appeared to be an immobilizer problem.
After searching on this forum and others, it seems to be a common problem worldwide - and with other Hyundai models too. In some countries the dealers know of the problem and fix it under warranty.

The cause is poor contact in the connector bock for the immobilizer coil.

I took the details to the regional Hyundai dealer and asked them to fix it under warranty, especially as it a known problem as shown on my forum print-outs.

Basicly, they were unhelpful, said it was not a common fault, said they would need to do a fault scan etc and it would not be covered by warranty. I was disappointed that the people we spoke to seemed not to understand the details of how immobilizers work and, worst of all, the poorest customer care attitude of any main dealer I have encountered.

My wife took the car to a local independent garage with instructions to remove the immobilizer coil connector block and solder the connections permanently. The cost was a fraction of that required by the Hyundai dealer to make just a fault scan.

Six months on the car still starts first time every time.

As a qualified professional electronics engineer I was horrified to find that Hyundai had used a general purpose connector intended for a few amps in a situation that carried only a few milliamps. The correct connector should have gold plated contacts. The one fitted will go high resistance at low current due to atmospheric corrosion over time. This also explained why some people have had only a temporary fix after garages have disturbed the wiring.

SUMMARY
Car difficult to start when cold overnight (car 4 years old).
One of the dashboard light was not illuminating correctly (immobilizer) but not noticed until we started to investigate.
Cause is wrong type of connector used on the wiring of immobilizer coil.
Solution: Cut out the connector bock and solder the wires direct.

Sorry it's a long post but I hope the details will help other Hyundai owners, and not just the Getz. Thanks to other forum members for pointing me in the right direction.
 

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My wife's 2008 Getz had this starting problem which required her to make many attempts first thing in the morning. It appeared to be an immobilizer problem.
After searching on this forum and others, it seems to be a common problem worldwide - and with other Hyundai models too. In some countries the dealers know of the problem and fix it under warranty.

The cause is poor contact in the connector bock for the immobilizer coil.

I took the details to the regional Hyundai dealer and asked them to fix it under warranty, especially as it a known problem as shown on my forum print-outs.

Basicly, they were unhelpful, said it was not a common fault, said they would need to do a fault scan etc and it would not be covered by warranty. I was disappointed that the people we spoke to seemed not to understand the details of how immobilizers work and, worst of all, the poorest customer care attitude of any main dealer I have encountered.

My wife took the car to a local independent garage with instructions to remove the immobilizer coil connector block and solder the connections permanently. The cost was a fraction of that required by the Hyundai dealer to make just a fault scan.

Six months on the car still starts first time every time.

As a qualified professional electronics engineer I was horrified to find that Hyundai had used a general purpose connector intended for a few amps in a situation that carried only a few milliamps. The correct connector should have gold plated contacts. The one fitted will go high resistance at low current due to atmospheric corrosion over time. This also explained why some people have had only a temporary fix after garages have disturbed the wiring.

SUMMARY
Car difficult to start when cold overnight (car 4 years old).
One of the dashboard light was not illuminating correctly (immobilizer) but not noticed until we started to investigate.
Cause is wrong type of connector used on the wiring of immobilizer coil.
Solution: Cut out the connector bock and solder the wires direct.

Sorry it's a long post but I hope the details will help other Hyundai owners, and not just the Getz. Thanks to other forum members for pointing me in the right direction.
One year on and my 09 Getz is having the same frustrating issue. More detailed explanation so I can attempt repair please?
 

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One year on and my 09 Getz is having the same frustrating issue. More detailed explanation so I can attempt repair please?
Hi Mikey. I see that PikPilot hasn't posted on the forum for a while so I thought I'd jump in.

The immobilizer fault is caused by a high resistance in the connector connecting the key pick-up coil (the ring antenna) to the car's dash wiring loom.

The fix for the fault is to remove the connector from the ring antenna and solder the wires directly to the vehicles wiring loom.
Removing the connector removes the high resistance and hopefully will cure your issue. (Photo of the ring antenna attached).

You'd need to remove the steering cowlings to gain access to the connector. If you need any further help, just let us know.

Scott.

PS. PikPilot....are you actually a pilot who flies from PIK?
 

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Immobiliser fault

Hi Mikey. I see that PikPilot hasn't posted on the forum for a while so I thought I'd jump in.

The immobilizer fault is caused by a high resistance in the connector connecting the key pick-up coil (the ring antenna) to the car's dash wiring loom.

The fix for the fault is to remove the connector from the ring antenna and solder the wires directly to the vehicles wiring loom.
Removing the connector removes the high resistance and hopefully will cure your issue. (Photo of the ring antenna attached).

You'd need to remove the steering cowlings to gain access to the connector. If you need any further help, just let us know.

Scott.

PS. PikPilot....are you actually a pilot who flies from PIK?
I used fly a Pik20 in the UK for many years. A great machine once you learnt the work around for the unpublished trait of dropping a wingtip to the ground on take and landing (the flaps go down to 90 deg as spoilers and are also coupled to ailerons over the range +8 to -8). Now sold to a guy in Vienna who flies it in the Alps.
No, I don't fly from Prestwick (PIK).
 

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Ah, that explains it then. I've never tried gliding. Well, I did once when the engine chucked it. I'm glad to report that neither plane nor pilot got bent in the landing:)

Cheers.

Scottie.
 

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immobiliser !!!ARRRRGGG

My wife's 2008 Getz had this starting problem which required her to make many attempts first thing in the morning. It appeared to be an immobilizer problem.
After searching on this forum and others, it seems to be a common problem worldwide - and with other Hyundai models too. In some countries the dealers know of the problem and fix it under warranty.

The cause is poor contact in the connector bock for the immobilizer coil.

I took the details to the regional Hyundai dealer and asked them to fix it under warranty, especially as it a known problem as shown on my forum print-outs.

Basicly, they were unhelpful, said it was not a common fault, said they would need to do a fault scan etc and it would not be covered by warranty. I was disappointed that the people we spoke to seemed not to understand the details of how immobilizers work and, worst of all, the poorest customer care attitude of any main dealer I have encountered.

My wife took the car to a local independent garage with instructions to remove the immobilizer coil connector block and solder the connections permanently. The cost was a fraction of that required by the Hyundai dealer to make just a fault scan.

Six months on the car still starts first time every time.

As a qualified professional electronics engineer I was horrified to find that Hyundai had used a general purpose connector intended for a few amps in a situation that carried only a few milliamps. The correct connector should have gold plated contacts. The one fitted will go high resistance at low current due to atmospheric corrosion over time. This also explained why some people have had only a temporary fix after garages have disturbed the wiring.

SUMMARY
Car difficult to start when cold overnight (car 4 years old).
One of the dashboard light was not illuminating correctly (immobilizer) but not noticed until we started to investigate.
Cause is wrong type of connector used on the wiring of immobilizer coil.
Solution: Cut out the connector bock and solder the wires direct.

Sorry it's a long post but I hope the details will help other Hyundai owners, and not just the Getz. Thanks to other forum members for pointing me in the right direction.

hi.sorry to hijack your thread
but i have the same problem
on my 04 getz diesel
i have changed the immobiliser anntenna and soldered the wires
as per wisdom the forum
but to no avail
i have took it to a local garage after BUMP STARTING it to get it there
they cannot use the diagnostic machine as the immobiliser wont allow it.
i am now at my wits end with it
does the almighty hyundai forum have any ideas
to get me going again
THANKS Barry
 

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Barry,
I am not as familiar with the Hyundai systems as I am with other makes of car but a few points come to mind:

Diesel cars cannot usually be started by bump starting if the immobiliser is not seeing the correct key as it will shut off the fuel supply. So your immobiliser may in fact be working and you have something else not allowing normal starting. Does the immobiliser light on the dash come on?

The diagnostics reader may be inhibited by other things such as a blown fuse. For example, in some VAG cars, replacing the radio with an after-market unit will destroy the reader because the 12V supply and signal line are reversed compared with factory fit radios.

I suggest you need to go to another garage or perhaps a specialist.
 

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i have took it to a local garage after BUMP STARTING it to get it there
Hello Barry, and welcome to the forum.

As pikpilot says, if you managed to bump start your car it can't be the immob that is causing the problem. I assume you engine won't crank since you bump started it? That could be caused by a faulty starter motor or even the starter relay. Did the your garage techs check those?

Scott.
 

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I done a few experiments with my immobilizer today. The warning light on my 2006 CRDi model seems to behave different to the one mentioned at the start of this thread.

With a valid key in the ring antenna, my immob light comes on with the other ignition lights. It goes out during crank but just before the engine fires up.

With no key or an invalid key (key from another Getz) in the antenna, my immob light doesn't come on at all. The engine cranks but doesn't fire up.

I never thought to disconnect the ring antenna to see what effect that has on the light. I'll maybe try that tomorrow and see if that makes the light flash 5 times.

Below are some screen captures from my scope while attached to the data link wire between the immob unit and the engine PCM :







 

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My wife's 2008 Getz had this starting problem which required her to make many attempts first thing in the morning. It appeared to be an immobilizer problem.
After searching on this forum and others, it seems to be a common problem worldwide - and with other Hyundai models too. In some countries the dealers know of the problem and fix it under warranty.

The cause is poor contact in the connector bock for the immobilizer coil.

I took the details to the regional Hyundai dealer and asked them to fix it under warranty, especially as it a known problem as shown on my forum print-outs.

Basicly, they were unhelpful, said it was not a common fault, said they would need to do a fault scan etc and it would not be covered by warranty. I was disappointed that the people we spoke to seemed not to understand the details of how immobilizers work and, worst of all, the poorest customer care attitude of any main dealer I have encountered.

My wife took the car to a local independent garage with instructions to remove the immobilizer coil connector block and solder the connections permanently. The cost was a fraction of that required by the Hyundai dealer to make just a fault scan.

Six months on the car still starts first time every time.

As a qualified professional electronics engineer I was horrified to find that Hyundai had used a general purpose connector intended for a few amps in a situation that carried only a few milliamps. The correct connector should have gold plated contacts. The one fitted will go high resistance at low current due to atmospheric corrosion over time. This also explained why some people have had only a temporary fix after garages have disturbed the wiring.

SUMMARY
Car difficult to start when cold overnight (car 4 years old).
One of the dashboard light was not illuminating correctly (immobilizer) but not noticed until we started to investigate.
Cause is wrong type of connector used on the wiring of immobilizer coil.
Solution: Cut out the connector bock and solder the wires direct.

Sorry it's a long post but I hope the details will help other Hyundai owners, and not just the Getz. Thanks to other forum members for pointing me in the right direction.
This problem does seem to occur with many Hyundai cars. We have the same problem, our car can go weeks without any problem and then the problem starts once again. When this happens we were adviced to turn the ignition on and off five times and it will re-set the imobilizer. This has worked for me up to now.
 

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Sorry to bring up this old thread but I was wondering where I could pick up this Antenna coil for a 2010 Hyundai santa fe 3.5v6? I have been searching with no luck. Preferably a Canadian site.


Thank You So Much
 

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Hi Mikey. I see that PikPilot hasn't posted on the forum for a while so I thought I'd jump in.

The immobilizer fault is caused by a high resistance in the connector connecting the key pick-up coil (the ring antenna) to the car's dash wiring loom.

The fix for the fault is to remove the connector from the ring antenna and solder the wires directly to the vehicles wiring loom.
Removing the connector removes the high resistance and hopefully will cure your issue. (Photo of the ring antenna attached).

You'd need to remove the steering cowlings to gain access to the connector. If you need any further help, just let us know.

Scott.

PS. PikPilot....are you actually a pilot who flies from PIK?
Hi Scott,

I think my Getz is having the same problem as Mikey wife's car. Do you have any other manuals or documents to show how to remove the antenna or the steering wheels or even the dashboard. I would like to follow some instruction and take an adventure, hoping I can fix the problem. Thanks in advance.:smile:

Charlie
 

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No need to remove the steering wheel or the complete dash. You gain access to the ring antenna by remove the steering cowlings. Follow the wire coming off the antenna and it'll lead you to the connector.

 

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Thanks for the image. I've got access to the ring antenna, but it seems my car has already been treated like you said in the previous post. There's no plugs and sockets around the antenna. Two wires are connected to it directly from somewhere I can't see, behind the dashboard I assume.

But the immobiliser goes wrong sometimes in spite of that. I think the next possible reason should be key battery, right?
 

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Thanks for the image. I've got access to the ring antenna, but it seems my car has already been treated like you said in the previous post. There's no plugs and sockets around the antenna. Two wires are connected to it directly from somewhere I can't see, behind the dashboard I assume.
Follow the wiring coming out the antenna and you should come across a white connector. Following the wiring beyond the connector should lead you to the SMARTRA box.

Charlie Xu said:
I think the next possible reason should be key battery, right?
Wrong! The battery in the key is for the remote locking, not the immobilizer.
 

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to reach the immobiliser antenna...

Hi guys ,I am ready to iron the cables. Can anyone help me how to quickly reach the antenna of immobiliser ? showing the video how to disassemble cover of steering wheel to reach would be very helpfull. Thanks from now... Cheers
 

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I don't know of a video showing how to remove the cowlings but there may be one soon.

This happened to my car the other day. Immobilizer light wouldn't come on. I even tried the spare key and it still wouldn't come on so I grabbed the tools to remove the cowlings and my phone. I started making a video on my phone but when I put the key in to release the steering lock so I could gain access to the upper cowling screws the immobilizer light came on and the engine started. I had a job to go to so I had to abandon the idea. It's been behaving itself since but when it happens again I'll try and make a video of the repair.
 

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Thanks for the image. I've got access to the ring antenna, but it seems my car has already been treated like you said in the previous post. There's no plugs and sockets around the antenna. Two wires are connected to it directly from somewhere I can't see, behind the dashboard I assume.

But the immobiliser goes wrong sometimes in spite of that. I think the next possible reason should be key battery, right?
Hi guys, something weird happened. I thought maybe it could be a clue.

I didn't look into this problem again after I found the antenna's wires thing is done by the previous owner. However, one day after I full filled the fuel tank, the fuel level pointer on the dashboard drops very quickly during I drive back from work to home. When I arrived, the pointer drops from nearly full to the middle. That's about 20 or 30 minutes. The car drives normally, nothing seems wrong except the fuel pointer. I planed to visit a mechanic in the afternoon. But when I start the car and heading to the mechanic shop, the pointer slowly came back. It's like the dropping thing is reversed. I waited about 20 minutes and the pointer came back to the position before, like nothing happened. I thought maybe there's a sensor in the fuel tank go nuts, but it never happened again.

And since then, the problem about the antenna or the keys, or the immobiliser is gone. I can start the engine every time now. The immobiliser indicator on the dashboard works perfectly normal. It has been several weeks. I'm not sure whether the fuel system is connected to the engine starting process somehow, but it's good to get rid of that immobiliser problem.
 

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I have got a Getz 1.4 GSI 2006 automatic. The same immobilizer intermittent fault came up as described previously by other users. I then got a car electrician solder the wires of the immobilizer antenna coil as Autospark suggested in his post. No problems after that. Obviously the connector is to blame for the problem. There were no error codes on EPC.
Thank you Autospark!
 
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