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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is for the diesel Hyundai Iload, Imax, Starex, H1, van. It wont make any check engine lights appear on the dash :smile:. Basically just buy the Navara D40 blanking plate, widen 1 hole, and stick it in with no gasket.


1. Buy the EGR blanking plate for the Navara D40 ...it should be a diamond shape stainless steel plate 2mm thick. I paid $6.50 This is the title of the ebay one that I bought but there's lots of different listings and even other engines like mitzubishi use the same plate.
EGR Blanking plate Nissan Navara D40 2.5L TD Euro 5 Spec 2011-ON NO HOLE Steel
the link EGR Blanking Plate Nissan Navara D40 2 5L TD Euro 5 Spec 2011 ON NO Hole Steel | eBay

THE HOLES ON THE PLATE ARE TOO FAR APART FROM EACH OTHER AND YOU HAVE TO GET AN OLD DRILL BIT...STICK IT HALF WAY IN ONE HOLE OF THE BLANKING PLATE AND GRIND ONE HOLE TOWARDS THE INSIDE TO ALLOW THE HOLES TO BE CLOSER TOGETHER SO THAT THE BOLTS FIT IN THE ENGINE THREAD HOLES. Make sure to grind off any metal spurs on the blanking plate after modifying the hole.
You'll see if you try to fit the plate that you need to shorten the distance of the holes by 1mm or so.

2. Unbolt the cover shown in the picture. 12mm bolts( 2 short bolts on the front one, 1 long and 1 medium bolt on the back plate).
Don't loose the BROWN gaskets when you take the cover off.

3. Clean the steel mating surfaces where to the plate will go. There may be an elevated ring of carbon baked on. Clean it off with some petrol on a rag and make the surface flat and clean.

4. Set aside 1 of the brown gaskets and put the plate in ...close it up ...no gasket. If the two surfaces are clean and flat it should seal ok.....well it worked for me anyway. The plate should go on the front hole...closest to where you stand....beside the positive battery terminal. The other gasket stays on the other hole.
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The dirty EGR gasses travel from the hole closest to the windshield... and through the metal tube and down the hole closest to the battery, where they mix with the clean air from the intercooler, and then into the manifold, and into the cylinders.
If your going to the trouble of blanking the EGR, then you should also buy a Mann and Hummel, Provent 200 oil catch can to filter the crankcase blow by gasses which are routed from the top left side of the engine through a rubber hose and straight back into the rubber tube which is the air inlet and then down to the turbo. These oily vapours mix with the EGR gasses and make a sticky mess in the EGR valve and engine intake/manifold.

In the Pics, the blank lid is the Provent 200 oil catch can. Its next to the blue lid which is the windscreen wiper fluid. I attached the plastic provent 200 catch can to the rubber inlet snorkel(pictured near the yellow dipstick) using an old rubber bicycle tube .I also wrapped some of the bicycle tube around the white wiper fluid tube. Its a temporary until I find something more secure, but its pretty secure. Before doing all this I removed the bolt holding the wiper fluid filler neck. I rotated the filler neck slightly to make room and zip tied the filler neck to its mounting bracket and discarded the bolt.
Another place for the catch can is on the back side of the battery between the battery and the fuel filter (windscreen side of the battery).
Note there are some knock off copies of the Provent 200 on ebay. If you pay less then $160 its a knock off as explained here. Fake Provent 100 and 200 from CHINA HP Copy















 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
In the first post I mean to say THE BLACK LID is the catch can (not the blank lid)
Can't edit anymore so I wanted to clarify.

The reason to use a Provent 200 catch can is for the superior filtering ability of the white cotton/cloth filter inside. And the emergency pressure relief valves built into the unit. Other catch cans that just use stainless steel scourer don't filter enough oil from the blow by vapour.

The best place to buy a genuine Provent 200 catch can, for Australian buyers, is asguard engineering because they have the cheapest hose adapters/ hose reducers which you will need for fitting the 25mm catch can to the 15mm(5/8 inch) hose barbs on the Hyundai iload and Imax engine. The inlet and outlet hose sizes on the Provent catch can are 25mm.
Link to the hose adapters - sold as a pair
1? to 5/8? Reducer (Pair) | Asgard Engineering

link to the 2 x 5/8 plastic hose joiners you will need
5/8? Straight Hose Joiner | Asgard Engineering

link to the catch can
ProVent 200 Catch Can ? MANN+HUMMEL | Asgard Engineering

You would also need some 5/8 heater (radiator) hose.... or better ....oil/fuel hose which is more expensive than heater hose.
Supercheapauto has 5/8inch heater hose in 1.5m length which is enough length for the placement of the the catch can in my situation.

You also need a section of 13mm clear pvc hose and a plastic garden system tap or any tap for the hose.....this is to go on the bottom of the catch can for the drainage. But the drain hose is also storage for the filtered oil until you empty the drain hose. There is not much room in the bottom of the catch can to hold filtered oil. Its best stored in a long section of drain hose until drained.
A pack of mixed hose clamps
15mm x 4
25mm x 2
13mm x 1 (drain hose)

and black plastic zip ties.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Blanking the EGR gasses is illegal and can affect your warranty if found.
So you might want to take it out and put the gasket back in if your going in for a service at Hyundai, or for warranty repair work. Then you can reinstall it after.
If the van is still under warranty, don't let Hyundai find it in there if you take the van in for any reason.

I checked my cheap OBD2 scanner for any FAULT CODES coming from the engine and there were 0 fault codes. The service man at Hyundai may not notice the blanking plate. Many people have said that their mechanics suggest blanking the EGR.
 

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No its not dead, however there does not seem to be many members that have the iload/starex models hence the lack of interest to your (very informative) thread
 

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Hi. I have just found this forum and I have just purchased an iload with a spun big end bearing. rebuild in progress. thanks for all the info about the EGR and catch can, I will look at doing this to mine also. cheers.
 

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Looking at my 2014-build engine bay, the area where you show to remove the pipe is very different to the photos at the start of this thread (see mine attached - note image is rotated 90 degrees from others shown in this thread)...

It appears the large black finned doobie-watsit may be the same as the pipe I need to remove. Or does all this need to be removed to get access to the pipe? Even looking and feeling underneath I couldn't find anything that resembled the pipe in this thread.

The turbo is on other side of engine.

I'm new to turbo engines so please excuse my lack of knowledge!

BTW I have found an imax/iload EGR blank plate on ebay from an AU seller (easy enough to find if searching for it - I'm a newbie here so not sure if I'm permitted to post links to ebay items)
 

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basshead , I've got the same model diesel engine in my 2013 iload. I just recently blocked the EGR on mine. Not sure if the way I did it is the best way but the way I did mine was. . theres a pipe that run's from the rear of the exhaust manifold, across the back of the cylinder head & to the EGR cooler. I removed that pipe & fitted the blanking plate at the exhaust manifold end. I drilled a 4mm hole in the middle of the blanking plate to let a very small amount of exhaust gasses through, read somewhere it would fault & bring on check engine light if I didn't. Not sure if this is true or not. . ? Done approx 4000km so far & on check engine! Still yet to try it with out the 4mm hole. If your going to do it do the vent catch can also mate
 

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You are doing Gods work! Thanks for posting.

You are doing Gods work mate.
my engine is still running well, at 128000kms. But I have concerns due to oil blow through,
I service the oil and filters around 10,000Kms. I noticed yesterday a good amount of oils deposit around the injectors. I have heard the cause of this is due to the copper waschas/ gasket for the injectors can relax a little as time goes on, and will start to let blow through gasses into the crank case. Also there is a fair bit of oil deposit around the intercooler inlet.
Im planning on replacing these $2 waschas (I dont know how to spell it, I know it isn't washer) but I dont have time right now to pull the injectors out, so I want to do a quick fix and minimise the blow through.
I'm just going to get a $80 catch can from Auto one, pureley because I can pick it up and fit it today.
I wish I had of done and engine flush before I put $60 worth of new oil in yesterday.
Cheers,
heres to not burning out your turbo!:smile::smile::smile:
 

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You are doing Gods work! Thanks for posting.

You are doing Gods work mate.
my engine is still running well, at 128000kms. But I have concerns due to oil blow through,
I service the oil and filters around 10,000Kms. I noticed yesterday a good amount of oils deposit around the injectors. I have heard the cause of this is due to the copper waschas/ gasket for the injectors can relax a little as time goes on, and will start to let blow through gasses into the crank case. Also there is a fair bit of oil deposit around the intercooler inlet.
Im planning on replacing these $2 waschas (I dont know how to spell it, I know it isn't washer) but I dont have time right now to pull the injectors out, so I want to do a quick fix and minimise the blow through.
I'm just going to get a $80 catch can from Auto one, pureley because I can pick it up and fit it today.
I wish I had of done and engine flush before I put $60 worth of new oil in yesterday.
Cheers,
heres to not burning out your turbo!😄😄😄
Hey Mannvann,
My mechanic advised against engine oil flushes particularly in turbo diesel vehicles. Yes, they do the job but draining the oil does not get all the crap out that the flush as removed or loosened. The problem is that draining the oil hot or cold does not get rid of all that crap and it sits in the sump, and some have stuck to the oil pick up.
I had a turbo go at 215000kms and another at 285000kms. My machinic knew why immediately once I told him every 2nd oil change, I used oil flush. The crap clogged the oil pick up and starved the turbo of oil. He removed the sump and cleaned the oil pick up and pump feeder tube. He showed me and the intake for the oil pump and it was restricted by more than 50%.
The mechanic used oil flush regularly then found himself removing sumps to clean out the crap. He has stopped doing it now and only does it on request. He said its OK for non-turbo vehicles to a point. Just don't do it on turbo vehicles.
His recommendation is to change every 5,000kms, 7,000kms at the most. Never use oil flush.
He also recommends a carbon clean every 50,000kms. On other iLoads and iMaxs it has stopped most of the blowby you get in high Km motors. Mine is been done next week.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
 
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