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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything. The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I really need some help here. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Well, with these error codes certainly something isn't good. They are all Hyundai related codes.
Under 1000 they are general, not brand related codes.
However, I can hardly understand suddenly all these sensors were going bad.
p1110: HO2S heater control circuit Bank 2 sensor 2:high
p1173: Angle sender 2 for throttle valve drive-G188:signal too high
p1192: Fuel pressure sensor-G247:supply voltage
p2127: Accelerator position sensor 2-G185:low

So it seems something with your pedal sensor and something with the throttle valve itself.
Also something with fuel pressure sensor and with HO2S sensor, I think related to exhaust fumes.
I do not know exactly the meaning of all those code explanations.
I know the pedal sensor actually has 2 circuits/sensors, so one of them seems not responding.
Before you spend again lots of $$$ I would check wiring harnesses and connectors at the various sensors for short circuits, crumbled isolation or the like, eventually measure signals.
You also could do a hard ECU reset by undoing the +12v cable of the battery and holding it to a ground/metal for some 30 seconds. Then you can reattach the cable to the battery.
It will also clear the error codes. The car will reset to factory standards and needs to learn again several levels and engine settings, so it could behave the first time a little rough, but maybe it cures the errors.
Also recheck your repair on the exciter ring, but actually the hall-sensor for proper seating, no short.
Also check your battery voltage. Maybe all related to low or high battery voltage.
In rest 12.5 volts, engine running some 14.4 volts.
Good luck,
Paul
 
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