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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys n gals, new to the forum and new to Hyundai ownership.
I just picked up a non running 2009 i800, plugged the diagnostics in and is coming up with 'P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Abnormal'. I've replaced plenty of sensors but never seen this '...abnormal' in a code before. I've replaced the sensor to no avail. Fuel rail pressure is good and I've had it running on Easy Start (briefly for a quick compression/mechanical check), but still wont run without. Sounds as if it has bad fuel - wants to start but not quite getting there.... Would bad fuel cause an error code like this?
Thanks for all the help in advance, Steve
 

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Hi guys n gals, new to the forum and new to Hyundai ownership.
I just picked up a non running 2009 i800, plugged the diagnostics in and is coming up with 'P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Abnormal'. I've replaced plenty of sensors but never seen this '...abnormal' in a code before. I've replaced the sensor to no avail. Fuel rail pressure is good and I've had it running on Easy Start (briefly for a quick compression/mechanical check), but still wont run without. Sounds as if it has bad fuel - wants to start but not quite getting there.... Would bad fuel cause an error code like this?
Thanks for all the help in advance, Steve

Look at the wiring to the sensor and make sure you don't see any rub throughs or chaffing on the wiring and or the loom. Make sure the pins on the connector are not bent.



00000732


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Thanks,
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Would bad fuel cause an error code like this?
No.

But I'd take a fuel sample and make sure it's not contaminated with petrol or anything else before going any further.
You say you picked it up as a non runner but do you know any of the history about what has been done to try and make it run again?

The code description you get will depend on what tool you read the code with. I've never came across "Sensor Abnormal" before myself but I would take that to mean the signal is implausible. Meaning there is a signal there but it's not what the PCM is expecting to see.

Did you replace the sensor with a genuine Hyundai part? I've come across quite a lot of aftermarket cam sensors that have the signal inverted which makes the PCM "think" the cam timing is out. Sometimes that will cause a signal implausibility code. I know you had the code before replacing the sensor but maybe it was already replaced with another aftermarket part by the last guy who tried to make it run.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great thanks for the quick responses!

grcauto - Forgot to add I did a voltage test at the plug and it was as it I thought it should be, but that doesn't mean it's not earthing out. I gave it a quick check in the low light yesterday afternoon, and will do a more thorough check today, thanks.

autospark - I took a quick sample yesterday and kinda felt a bit funky. I don't deal in anything diesel anymore, but I always thought diesel should be oily between your fingers (I'm in UK too). When I did this test it was a little oily but it cleaned my fingers like there was an additive/possible petrol in it. It smelt like diesel to me though. I may buy a filter and drain tank - not looking forward to this with almost full tank.
The van was a private sale and parked with the problem, has sat for six months.... 130K miles, full service history and was serviced 2K ago (and looks it) so assumed it ran to get serviced.
The sensor I pulled was a genuine and looked like the original. Replaced with a non-genuine due to quick availability.

I'll check the above items today and get back later. Thanks again, Steve
 

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Put a little of the fuel in a container and try to light it. If there's petrol in it the vapours will ignite. The vapour that comes off diesel at room temperature wont ignite.

The other thing to take a close look at is the rev counter. Does the needle lift a little during crank? Also take a look at the engine speed on your scan tool data list and make sure you get a speed reading during crank. If not that's pointing to a crank signal problem.
 

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What AUTOSPARK is saying is read engine RPM during crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, found the problem. I did the fuel ignite test before and didn't light. Take a look -
So next question, do the valves hit? It's one tooth out (retarded) on intake only....
 

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So next question, do the valves hit?
Yeah, but you said it ran on easy start. How did it sound when it was running?

The cam timing is wrong so the timing of the fuel injection will be wrong too. That could be the reason for the non start rather than mechanical damage.
Only one way to find out though and that's reset the timing and see if it runs and how well.
 

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OK, found the problem. I did the fuel ignite test before and didn't light. Take a look -
So next question, do the valves hit? It's one tooth out (retarded) on intake only....
One tooth is not off enough to cause valve damage. It can set cam codes. I think you found your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yes, ran on easy start quite well, didn't run it for long and fired instantly. My thoughts on cam code as well which is why I had a feeling it was a bit deeper - cam/crank sync. Looks like it could've been worse and it was cheap enough that I was prepared to swap/strip engine. Is it worth doing all chains and guides? Tensioner etc? Unsure if they're a weak spot with this engine...
 

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Yes, ran on easy start quite well, didn't run it for long and fired instantly. My thoughts on cam code as well which is why I had a feeling it was a bit deeper - cam/crank sync. Looks like it could've been worse and it was cheap enough that I was prepared to swap/strip engine. Is it worth doing all chains and guides? Tensioner etc? Unsure if they're a weak spot with this engine...
I wonder WHY the timing jumped....bad tensioner?.....chain stretched?....If you are in doubt...change them out...best little rhyme for timing chains.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Unsure why guide has broken up (if you didn't spot, check where I'm pointing in pic). Plastic in engines is never a good thing in my book...
 

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Progress update - finally had time to look further into this and it fired up fine with just the top chain guide replaced. However, cam gear alignment marks weren't spot on (half a tooth out) and tensioner seemed to come out too far for my liking (about an inch as apposed to the quarter inch I would expect of piston showing). As it's a keeper and I wanted it done right I went ahead and replaced all three chains, tensioners, guides etc... Found the centre/rear chain had stretched quite a bit and corrected the cam alignment previously mentioned. NOTE - use the correct fuel pump gear puller, it was super tight! It runs like it should again. Now I just have to correct an ABS ring on the front and rear pads. Happy with my purchase and appreciate the help from you guys....Steve
 

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Hi Steve, great to hear it's mobile again. Thanks for posting back with the update.
 
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