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I recently had a 75k service on a 2009 CW Diesel. When I picked the car up from dealer I noticed that the brake pedal was up high and after driving several kilometers the brakes appeared to be binding. After pumping the brakes for a while the pedal seemed to settle down for a while. On going down a hill I took my foot off the accelerator and the car came to a stop with out my foot on the brake. I took it back to the dealer and they thought it might be an ABS problem but after tests seemed to think it was contaminated brake fluid. When the car was serviced they replaced the brake switch as a manufacturer recall. After replacing the brake fluid I still have a high brake pedal sometimes and economy gets up to 11-12 litres /100 sometimes. My question is could it be the switch they replaced causing this problem or could it be an ABS issue. Brakes were fine before the service. Thank you anyone.
 

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They haven't reset the brake light switch properly, the master cylinder can't vent fluid back to the reservoir as everything warms up, this causes the brakes to creep on and slow the car. Drive the car as little as possible until it's fixed, drive slowly and remember overheated brakes may not work as well as normal, book the car back in as soon as possible. Tell them to reset the brake pedal height and brake light switch clearances properly, as per the manual. Honestly some Hyundai dealerships are the best advertising that Toyota could ever ask for.
 

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Stuck Brake switch

Sorry just noticed this, haven't been on for a while. Had exactly same problem, brake switch replaced under manufacturer recall at service. Brakes felt bit firmer when picked car up, but with long drive home noticed car revving bit higher and hesitant to roll on. When home noticed brake smell and tried feeling wheel and jumped at the heat, way more than normal. Next day was heading back to dealers when it became virtually impossible to drive without pushing along at about 3000RPM, in 2nd on the auto and only about 40 KMH!! Outcome, had to have roadside assistance re-adjust brake switch that service center stuffed up!! When I returned to have dealership check the fix it was one of those "Oh so sorry", hopefully they went and gave the clown of a mechanic a good kick in the *rse!! Makes you wonder about the statement and what they do "Road tested OK":mad:
 

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They haven't reset the brake light switch properly, the master cylinder can't vent fluid back to the reservoir as everything warms up, this causes the brakes to creep on and slow the car. Drive the car as little as possible until it's fixed, drive slowly and remember overheated brakes may not work as well as normal, book the car back in as soon as possible. Tell them to reset the brake pedal height and brake light switch clearances properly, as per the manual. Honestly some Hyundai dealerships are the best advertising that Toyota could ever ask for.
Ray what excactly creates the brakes self loading is it because when they installed the brake switch the adjustment put a load on the pedal or does the pedal need to be adjusted so there is 3mm of free pedal before it activates the master cylinder ?
 

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builder 54, hi,

Ray G hasn't posted anything for 20 months so I'd be a little surprised if you get an answer.......
 

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builder 54, hi,

Ray G hasn't posted anything for 20 months so I'd be a little surprised if you get an answer.......
well I guess that is a dead end, is there anyone else that can chime in on this problem? I did check the brake switch adjustment but dont know if i should back off the brake pedal adjustment , what happens to mine is intermittent and nothing show up with the obd2 scanner even during a road test , no codes nothing. when we bought the car the park brake was backed off so far that the handle would not go down I adjusted it per manual instructions. also too all the brakes apart and checked for pin lubrication and pad retraction and everything was fine, but some times the front brakes come on and start to drag only on hiway speeds , and few pumps of the brake pedal and they are fine. the dealers is full of clowns and no one can give me an answer
 

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well I guess that is a dead end, is there anyone else that can chime in on this problem? I did check the brake switch adjustment but dont know if i should back off the brake pedal adjustment , what happens to mine is intermittent and nothing show up with the obd2 scanner even during a road test , no codes nothing. when we bought the car the park brake was backed off so far that the handle would not go down I adjusted it per manual instructions. also too all the brakes apart and checked for pin lubrication and pad retraction and everything was fine, but some times the front brakes come on and start to drag only on hiway speeds , and few pumps of the brake pedal and they are fine. the dealers is full of clowns and no one can give me an answer
ok since there seems to be a lot of dead air i will tell you what i have done so far. just so we are clear this was what i started with. recall for brake light switch, installed my F%&$#(&*% dealer whom denied any relation to brakes self loading during highway speeds. So what i did was first check to see if the brake pedal was partially depressed by the brake switch install even by 1mm it can load the brakes up over time and distance driven. adjusted to factory setting all is good (or so I thought ) checked all brakes for proper operation, all is good, checked e brake , not good but fixed now. still problem persists . talked to a good friend 45 Mazda mechanic , i know not same car BUT! he mentioned something interesting. he said sometimes when the brake switch is installed and the brake pedal is not in the full upright position and plugged in the abs reads that ( either a partially depressed brake pedal or fully depressed ) as the default position ( stationary or at rest position) when plugged in. cuz you know some mechanics are only the lube techs doing the $120 per hour work. (Rant) so he said unplug the brake switch , (no power no key ) and plug back in to the brake switch , for me it worked. it is supposed to reset the default brake pedal at rest position.
 

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oooooooooooookayyyyyy here we are again so I talked to a very busy friend of mine the Mazda mechanic for 45 years and (i know I know lets not go there ) he said when it loads up or in other words when the brakes start coming on take a flare nut wrench or brake line wrench looks like a box end wrench but has slot cut into it so you can slide it over the brake line, and crack open any of the the two brake lines going to the master cylinder, if this relieves the pressure to the brake lines and the car is able to roll freely then the master cylinder needs replacement. for some reason no one even commented on this problem but I have seen this on many sites in regards to Hyundai. so maybe if i am the only one stubborn enough to keep looking for a cause to the problem maybe this is the wrong site for me !
 
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