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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I have searched the forum and found two threads relating to this but they are a few years out of date (Cant post links, forum wont let me)

I had to call recovery today as my 2010 i10 would not start. It fires for half a second or so and on one occasion I even managed to rev it for a second and then dies with the key immobiliser light flashing. It did it the other day but after ten minutes it started. I tried for half an hour today before calling recovery. an hour later, mechanic arrives, starts first time. I drove it home but now at am a bit of a loss as to what to do?

Wondered if there had been any updates or new knowledge since those two threads were created as there are many theories offered.

Do I take it to my local garage or would I be best going to a Hyundai dealer? I dont want to be in a situation where Im told there is nothing wrong with it or they replace a load of stuff just guessing what the issue is. Forewarned is forearmed and all that.

Thanks
 

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What I suggest is you carry your spare key with you if you have one. Next time it wont start with the key you normally use, try starting it using the spare key. If it starts OK the fault is most likely with transponder in the original key.

Immobilizer issues need special diagnostic equipment, so you either need to find an auto locksmith that has the equipment or go to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that. I didnt think there was anything in this key as its the boggy basic model but I will try what you suggest.
 

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There has to be a transponder chip in the key if the car has an immobilizer warning light.
 

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Thanks again. Lets hope thats all it is then. You will have to excuse my ignorance, Im hopeless when it comes to these things. The one thing that I did wonder though was all the advice and threads online point to the immobiliser being the issue but would it fire at all if this was the case? Wouldnt it just turn over rapidly without a single sign of any engine ignition? Yesterday it was like a faint cough or splutter of life then dying. An hour or so later when the mechanic turned it over, totally fine and drove home perfectly. When he turned it over though the immobiliser light was solid until it fired then went off. when I was doing it, it was flashing.

Will see what today brings, ill take both keys.
 

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When he turned it over though the immobiliser light was solid until it fired then went off.
That is how the immobilizer light should behave when it's working properly. The flashing indicates a fault. Reading the fault codes stored in the engine PCM will give you a clue as to what the fault is likely to be.
 

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Thanks again. I used the car yesterday for an hour or so on a trip into town and it started fine but when out I just left it running. Got home, stopped it, started again first time. Left it for an hour and a half, went back outside, started first time and several times on both keys.

If I get my garage to read the fault codes if its working at the time will it show up a fault code or will they be able to read the history? I have no idea how these things work.

My worry is I will take it in and they wont find anything wrong which seems to have been the case in some of the threads I have read about this issue.
 

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Fault codes stay in memory for a certain period of time but if the PCM doesn't see the fault again the code is automatically erased.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As suspected I took the car in to my usual garage yesterday and they couldnt find a fault on the code reader. They reckoned it was a big job to get to the electrics to clean connections etc but openly admitted they had not done it before on that model.

The Hyundai dealer wanted £50 just to do the reader check so no idea what they would have done next if no fault was found.

Basically all my usual garage have suggested is to wait for the problem to reoccur and then get it recovered for diagnostics straight away rather than getting it going again. This is not ideal. I live in the middle of nowhere and it means Im likely to get stranded somewhere inconvenient.

Having said that its been fine ever since. The only other thing I can add is it was wet and damp on the two occasions it occurred but would this make a difference?

I dont even want an immobiliser on the flipping thing to be honest. Who the **** is going to nick a 2010 i10?
 

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I'm with you there bdpoop, modern cars are vastly over complicated it would be great if we could find a way to just disconnect all the crap we don't need.
Yes damp is very good fo causing electrical problems perhaps giving it a spray with WD 40 might help.
 

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Its been fine until yesterday when it was chucking it down. when in town I have been in the habit of leaving the flipping thing running but at the gym etc I have to turn it off and its been ok. Yesterday in town I turned it off and then it wouldnt start again. Several attempts and I even tried the second key but it failed to start. Then I remembered a tip from one of the other threads on this issue and I tried turning the key on without engaging the ignition so the dash lights came on then off again in five second intervals, I also (as per another tip) gave the steering column a good belt. It then started. Was it luck or is there something in either (not very technical) procedure I dunno?

At this rate Ill be trading it in come January.
 

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Was the immobilizer light coming on when you were cycling the ignition on & off?
 

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Was the immobilizer light coming on when you were cycling the ignition on & off?
Sorry for the late reply. I cant remember. I think when I turned the ignition on for five seconds without firing it it was on solid I think.

Will check next time it happens.
 

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bdpoop we have the same intermittent starting fault with our i-10 auto. Dry, damp wet or cold conditions do not make a difference. Like you, the 'key' imobiliser symbol flashes and any attempt top start means the engine fires, runs then stops.


I now pay attention to the warning light during the ignition phase and not just pop key in ignition and turn the key expecting the car to start. My procedure is now:- ignition on, check light for flashing, if flashing turn ignition off then back on- no need for a delay in our case or remove and reinsert the key- then all being well the warning light is static and the car will start.


This is not a daily or weekly routine but one that often strikes when you don't want it to. Its not the thing you want for a getaway car !!


I have removed the steering column lower shroud etc to see if anything was loose but drawn a blank. I noted 'Master_tech mentioned the issue lies with the Immobiliser antenna ring connections on the Immobiliser control module (ICM). The fix he says is to pull the ICM connector off and tighten up the electrical connections. the ICM unit is located behind the instrument cluster apparently so its an area I have not ventured into tracking down the ICM unit or how to easily remove the instrument cluster as the fault has not become that much of an issue....yet.


I should add, if anyone knows how to easily remove the instrument cluster, then please let me know ?




edit:- This thread prompted me to have a look further and the fault may be easier to fix. Seems one or two folk have said:-

"all we did was move the antenna ring that sits around the ignition barrel a bit nearer the steering column plastic cowling,ie move it away from the steering column,it is held in with one screw so just slightly elongate the hole for the screw,we also unplugged the multi plug for the antenna and just tightened up/tweaked the connectors and plugged back in.".
 

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Had the same issue. Unlocking the steering column and rocking it up and down often solved the problem...until next time.
The donut shaped antenna that surrounds the key has been updated but my local dealer didn't have stock. He had 100 of the original item so fitted a like for like replacement. He said he would bypass the multiplug by hard wiring the new antenna into the wiring loom.
Boom. Started first time ever since and under guarantee. £150 including VAT and a clean waxed car on pickup.
 

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Boom. Started first time ever since and under guarantee. £150 including VAT and a clean waxed car on pickup.
Jeez, I'll have to adjust my prices. I done this same job to a Kia just the other day and only charged £80. I guess I'll have to work more slowly in future :)
 

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After a month trying, could I get a spark to turn the job around in 48 hours? Most said they might look at in in a few weeks time. One said he was too busy sub-contracting for the dealers! So what do you do when you're getting earache off the missus?
 
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