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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am writing this as I found NO information on how to remove a 2006~2011 RIO engine and I needed to replace one in a car I bought salvage with the ORIGINAL timing belt shredded at 113k miles.

I have not seen any posts on R&R of 1.6L engine and I thought I might post some tips...

The nose of the car has to come off... (bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, radiator, headlights and the plastic radiator/headlight sub frame..

Disconnect the battery...

Then remove the alternator and it's bracket, and the power steering pump (plug the hose connection on the bottom of the ps pump and also the removed hose to keep the fluid from leaking)..

The engine in a manual Accent (mine 2008) can come up and out with the transmission still in the car...

BUT....
You have to remove all protrusions from the engine front meaning..
The timing belt covers, motor bracket (bolted (4bolts) under the tb covers), the tensioner, the idlers, and most importantly the crank pulley. The water pump can stay (but remove the pulley and 4 bolts)... I used a 1 ton engine lift and a load leveler from Harbor Freight to lift/remove the engine...

Remove the air filter box and the ECU mounted on it....
The ECU has a very nice connector with a lever to release the wiring...

I found that removing the intake manifold allows much easier access to the back of the engine and the starter and AC compressor... Both come out MUCH easier this way...and you have access to the heater hoses, power brake vacuum lines and such

I hung the AC compressor on two bungee cords attached to the open hood (no need to remove the hood either) and the starter motor with wiring still attached will sit on the battery platform..
The AC condenser and aluminum and rubber hoses WILL move to the passenger side in front of the fender without discharging any of the AC system ...just take your time...

The wiring harnesses need a lot of TLC when removing them and there are few modular connectors... each sensor needs to be disconnected carefully... I removed the spark plug coil packs and injectors and fuel rail but that is up to you.. The injector harness does plug into a larger harness so you CAN leave them in place..

The side mount (right side from inside the car)
and the front engine mount need to come off.. as does the exhaust pipe at the bottom of the first catalytic converter. I removed the exhaust manifold with the O2 sensor to gain more access not knowing what was needed to remove the engine...

So...
I have gotten the engine out with the clutch assembly still attached to the flywheel... An automatic tranny should be very similar for removal with the exception of the torque converter being bolted to the flywheel (possible access to them through he starter motor hole)...

I'm sure I have left out many small things that will need disconnected and/or removed like the horn, fuel lines, O2 wiring, accelerator petal cabling to throttle body, radiator hoses, clutch slave...etc..
But clearing the way on the front of the engine and that motor mount and the mount to the frame under it and the crank pulley really helps in getting the needed distance to move the engine away from the transmission.... I will say here this is NOT a complete how to but an on going process that others can copy and add to as desired or needed..

If someone uses this and wants to expand on what I have written PLEASE DO... I'm sure there are others out there looking for HOW to remove this engine....

I will add to this post if I find other things that need to be addressed re-installing the replacement engine.

You moderators might want to make this a sticky so that others can/will build on... We are on our own with Hyundai and KIA tech info sites going greedy...

You can find me at kia-forums.com as DavesSpectra...I'm a moderator there if you wish to ask for more...I come here not as often as I would like but have a son and daughter with Hyundai cars... Come over and visit this forum's sister site!
Dave
 

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Good to know the engine and trans can be removed from the top, rather than the bottom as the repair manual suggests. I have 140k+ on my '09, engine and clutch are still running strong. I know once I pass this car down to one of my kids, I'll be servicing both sooner rather than later. Appreciate the tips and hope others will add to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've learned a lot with this job...

The nose of the car ( bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, radiator, radiator sub frame, headlights, power steering cooler) should be removed.

You MUST remove the large bolt on the crank shaft and the external crank pulley (that drives the accessories by belt)...

The wiring harness can be removed from the ECM, the bottom of the fuse box (plugs in) , the battery positive terminal and the heavy feeds attached going to other areas... and other plug in and bolt down connections on this end of the harness.. The salvage yard I got the "new" engine from ended up damaging some of the harness supplied and I never the less had to use the old harness off of the dud engine... Removing the above really makes more sense taking out and reinstalling the engines...

If you are going from an automatic transmission (on the donor engine) to a manual transmission (originally in the car) a pilot tool helps center the clutch parts when re-assembling clutch, pressure plate, flywheel...BUT not absolutely necessary.. just keep the gear on the clutch plate centered as well as possible... The clutch ass'y is small enough and flat enough to get away with out one (pilot tool)... I got lucky as the clutch had been replaced and was nearly brand new...

An engine hoist and a load leveler make tilting the clutch side down easier when re-assembling.. You will scratch the frame with the crank shaft but the engine will go in wit the help of a light pry bar... You will have to move the alignment of the engine to bell housing a lot to get the clutch ass'y into the bell housing and on to the pilot shaft from the transmission BUT it will go on... Take a break often so as you won't loose your temper and religion..

Because the old oil and antifreeze was not contaminated with each other or metal chunks I strained both and put them back into the donor engine temporarily to allow the new engine to heat up and get rid of any moisture and any accumulated bad stuff inside... I only ran those fluids for 15 minutes and then drained and replaced both with new...

I removed the plugs and sprayed some PB Blaster into each cylinder of the donor engine so the rings would not be dry first crank..The engine started in under a few seconds...was noisy for a short while until the oil got moving again then was quiet like new...

Do yourself a favor and break loose the oil filter on the donor engine BEFORE installing it...I didn't and with the original Hyundai/KIA filter (engine only had 804 miles on it) the factory must have used some giant with a 25" breaker bar installing it... I spent more time just trying to remove that filter (and destroying it) than on any other item during this job.

The car now has a new engine, and lots of Walmart gloss black spray paint ($,98 a can) on the frame, engine cradle, bumper brackets, and bumper reinforcement as I intend to make sure this car will survive many years to come. The painting was easy with the engine out...

The car runs and drives like new!

I really hope this helps others looking at an engine replacement in your Accent/RIO....

The only thing that has me baffled is the ground wire bolted to the frame under the battery platform... It's too short to connect to anything nearby..
The 09 Accent harness also has an extra ground wire in it that attaches to the starter bolt and also the body that the idiot removing the engine cut off too short to use... The other grounds on the 08 body work OK in providing a a good ground for the starter...
Dave
 
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