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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to the dealer the other day, test drove the 2.0T Limited...so i ask the sales guy about pricing and see what his manager can do for me. Manager comes out and gives me the sweet talk about how great the car is and this and that.
In the end the monthly payments quoted to me ended up being almost $25/mth more than what i found on the Hyundai website punching in the same figures (down payment & term) as i told the sales guy to give his manager.

Am i missing something with the online pricing? or did they just try and play me for a fool?
 

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There's to many variables for the HMA site to consider. You may have county or local taxes in addition to state taxes along with the different title & registration options. I'd venture to guess the dealers quote will be different from the final contract after they run your credit and obtain your score.

Dealers have to make money to.....:dry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No idea...i understand the dealers have to make their $$ too of course, but we're talking 13' models and yes I did click the option online to include taxes in the payments.
Just was curious if anyone else checked online prices compared with dealerships.
 

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Car loans are simple interest loans. The can't really hide anything in there. Just break the numbers down and one of the two has something different.

In the US, Hyundai does not include tax as it's pretty complicated. I assume since you check the option the Canadian site is different. Does that include all taxes?

For example I live in Kane County in Illinois. Here we are looking at 7% sales tax + $165 doc fee + 101 for plates, assuming you are not transferring. Hyundai site does not include any of those fees. Those rates vary from state to state, county to county, and some times city to city. For example Cook County in 8% sales tax and Chicago (which is in Cook) is 9.25%.
 

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No idea...i understand the dealers have to make their $$ too of course, but we're talking 13' models and yes I did click the option online to include taxes in the payments.
Just was curious if anyone else checked online prices compared with dealerships.
Which dealership did you go to? Do yourself a favour and subscribe to the APA or Care Help Canada to get the dealer's cost invoice before you shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Car loans are simple interest loans. The can't really hide anything in there. Just break the numbers down and one of the two has something different.

In the US, Hyundai does not include tax as it's pretty complicated. I assume since you check the option the Canadian site is different. Does that include all taxes?

For example I live in Kane County in Illinois. Here we are looking at 7% sales tax + $165 doc fee + 101 for plates, assuming you are not transferring. Hyundai site does not include any of those fees. Those rates vary from state to state, county to county, and some times city to city. For example Cook County in 8% sales tax and Chicago (which is in Cook) is 9.25%.
Thats a good question, i haven't bought a car in almost 10yrs so i can't remember all the fees involved and if they are all included on the online pricing...Im guessing registration and licensing fees would not be included, is there any other fees that im missing? But HST (harmonized sales tax) of 13% is included provided you check off the box to include tax on the hyundai website.

I live in the GTA region of Ontario. -- not sure why some days when i log in my profile doesn't show my location?? and other days it does...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Which dealership did you go to? Do yourself a favour and subscribe to the APA or Care Help Canada to get the dealer's cost invoice before you shop.
Richmond Hill...and yes i have been thinking of joining a site like "carcostcanada"
Im guessing you did yourself and found that it was useful?
 

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Richmond Hill...and yes i have been thinking of joining a site like "carcostcanada"
Im guessing you did yourself and found that it was useful?
Yes, I have purchased my last 3 vehicles through the APA. Knowing the dealer's cost gives you bargaining power even if you don't go to an APA dealership. Remember that high volume dealers usually get even bigger discounts from the manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I have purchased my last 3 vehicles through the APA. Knowing the dealer's cost gives you bargaining power even if you don't go to an APA dealership. Remember that high volume dealers usually get even bigger discounts from the manufacturer.
Thanks for the info Turbofan...i did end up joining carcostcanada the other day. Haven't gone back into any dealer or anything yet, but planning to soon enough.

Out of curiousity, i noticed you have the Luxury model and are from the Toronto area. If you don't mind me asking, which dealer did you go to? Did they give you what you wanted pricewise? ...im also leaning towards the Luxury model myself. Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the info Turbofan...i did end up joining carcostcanada the other day. Haven't gone back into any dealer or anything yet, but planning to soon enough.

Out of curiousity, i noticed you have the Luxury model and are from the Toronto area. If you don't mind me asking, which dealer did you go to? Did they give you what you wanted pricewise? ...im also leaning towards the Luxury model myself. Thanks.
CarCostCanada will provide you with their dealer representative. There is not much bargaining room from invoice price as you usually pay upwards of $800 above dealer cost. You can however, negotiate for $0 location fee and large discounts on accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
CarCostCanada will provide you with their dealer representative. There is not much bargaining room from invoice price as you usually pay upwards of $800 above dealer cost. You can however, negotiate for $0 location fee and large discounts on accessories.
The location fee would be? sorry, I've only bought 1 new car in my life.
 

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Op...........you have to include the finance admin cost if you are taking a loan, depending on the institution it varies anywhere from $25-50. You can opt out of the etching fee, dealer admin cost plus as others suggested negotiate based on the invoice price + 3% (approximate)...........Hope this helps
 

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What is a location fee?
I have bought many vehicles in my lifetime and have never paid or heard of a location fee.
Also, there will be a OMVIC fee and other fees it is best when talking to the salesperson that they outline ALL the fees.
 

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What is a location fee?
I have bought many vehicles in my lifetime and have never paid or heard of a location fee.
Also, there will be a OMVIC fee and other fees it is best when talking to the salesperson that they outline ALL the fees.
When you order a car they don't have, they charge that fee to locate it for you and go get it with another car from their lot that is traded for the one you chose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Op...........you have to include the finance admin cost if you are taking a loan, depending on the institution it varies anywhere from $25-50. You can opt out of the etching fee, dealer admin cost plus as others suggested negotiate based on the invoice price + 3% (approximate)...........Hope this helps
Salesperson told me that these vehicles already have the etching on them, im thinking this is not true....?? And its $599 for etching - w/ wheel locking nuts included, does this price sound about right?
 

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Never buy a vehicle with a price basis of monthly payments. NEVER Get the bottom line price. Its easy for a stealorship to make a longer term or say for just $20 more a month than to tell you the falt out buy price. Car buying 101 here. Also break out your trade price, don't let that all get muddled in. About every time I have hundereds of dollars difference in my contracts when I am checking out, and I get them removed from what the bottom line price that we agreed on. It was $200 for my SFS but I didn't waiver and told them the deal is a no if you try to add that after we agreed on the price - it came off. They also like to make you talk with another guy (finance guy) that sells the add ons. ALWAYS tell them you will sleep on it and you don't want it now because then you can shop and settle your mind to be sure you are willing to pay what they are asking witch is usually twice as much as it should cost.
 

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Never buy a vehicle with a price basis of monthly payments. NEVER Get the bottom line price. Its easy for a stealorship to make a longer term or say for just $20 more a month than to tell you the falt out buy price. Car buying 101 here. Also break out your trade price, don't let that all get muddled in. About every time I have hundereds of dollars difference in my contracts when I am checking out, and I get them removed from what the bottom line price that we agreed on. It was $200 for my SFS but I didn't waiver and told them the deal is a no if you try to add that after we agreed on the price - it came off. They also like to make you talk with another guy (finance guy) that sells the add ons. ALWAYS tell them you will sleep on it and you don't want it now because then you can shop and settle your mind to be sure you are willing to pay what they are asking witch is usually twice as much as it should cost.
Some good points. Buying a car is like going to court. Never ask a question you don't know the answer to already.

Do all your research. Know what the car is going for, ask to see the invoice, know what your trade in is worth. Always know what incentives you should be getting. A good car payment calculator on your phone is great help.

Start to negotiate car price first. Leave trade out of it. Once you have a car price then talk trade. Settle on a trade price but don't be alarmed if they move money between car and trade on the final paper work. Some times with manufacture holdbacks and the what not it might make for sense for the dealer to give you more for your trade than you agreed to and then up your trade-in. As long as the number come out the same in the end as you agreed to.

Only then talk payment. There you are negotiating interest rate. They have a fair amount of wiggle room in your rate. The manufactures special rate is quite often not your best rate so don't be surprised if the use a different back than Hyundai.

Once in the finance room the trick is keep saying no. They will lower prices to they hit their bottom and then they'll start lowering their interest rate. Keep saying no until they stop asking, then you found their bottom price. Then you decide if it's worth the cost to you. Make sure they don't change the payment lengths unless you ask them to.
 

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The location fee would be? sorry, I've only bought 1 new car in my life.
It is typically about $200. Let's face it, the dealer may not have the model or colour you want, so they try and locate it from another dealer. They try and pass the charge onto you as they pay an employee to go and get it. I would suggest you avoid the etching as my vehicle came with it no charge and avoid the rust proofing and take your vehicle to Krown instead. The finance person likes to push this additional stuff on you to get more money. That was the worst part of the purchase dealing with that person. The extended warranty was also a rip off for me. Hope this helps.
 
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