Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

I have a problem with a hyundai verna model from 2004. I couldn't find a subforum for it so I am posting here hoping that someone might help.

the problem is that it overheats only when
------ its a hot day and I am stuck in traffic and the AC is on.

It doesn't overheat in any other situation.

here is what I did so far
- replaced the radiator
- replaced the radiator cap
- Flushed the cooling system
- Flush the external of the radiator and the ac condenser


what else should I do?
I would appreciate any help

notes;

the condenser had a very small hole in it after a minor crash and I got it welded shut.

the radiator fan is not the stock fan of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
Check that the radiator fan is working properly. Those symptons sound like the radiator fan is not functioning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks for your input

when it overheats, I pull over and check the fans. both the radiator and ac fan are spinning. Is there something else I need to check in the fan and if so how can I check it.

The problem is the original stock fan for the radiator is very expensive in my area. So a while back, I put in a generic radiator fan. I don't know if the problem started after the new fan or not since I put in the fan in the winter and I didn't use the AC until nowadays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
It may just be that the engine is working extra hard on those hot days. I know it's unpleasant, but you could try turning the AC down when you're in traffic to reduce heat and stress on the engine and belt.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
the radiator fan is not the stock fan of the car.
Why ??

Edit: I see. The replacement fan(s) might not be moving enough air.
It is possible that you saved a few bucks on a fan but now have spent more than that on other unnecessary parts.

Also you didn't mention the thermostat....which is higher up on most peoples "list" than the radiator. Even the water pump would probably be higher on a "wild guess" list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
N.B
just to clarify something, when it over heats the indicator goes out of the ideal temp mark and stays half the way between the ideal temp mark and the red extreme mark. It doesn't reach the red mark.



Thanks for your help.

How can I make sure that the fan is spinning at the needed rpm.


How can I check the thermostat. I only know that if the fans kick in and that the car doesn't overheat when there is no ac; it means that its fine. I may be wrong here.

The water pump is new.


I am lost as to what to try?!?

Here is two things that I noticed that I don't knew if they are normal or not nor their relevance to the issue.

1) when I start up the car first thing in the morning, I popped the hood to see when will the radiator fan kick in. The car slowly build up temp to the ideal level. I remained idling at the ideal temp for about 15 minutes and still the radiator fan didn't kick in. I got fed up and just left for work.. Does this mean there is sth wrong, put in mind that when I turn the ac on, both fans work instantly.

2) I can squeeze the upper hose coming in the radiator when the car is hot; does this means a lack of pressure in the radiator. I don't see any visible coolant leaking and the radiator cap has just been changed.

Cheers
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
It doesn't reach the red mark.

2) I can squeeze the upper hose coming in the radiator when the car is hot; does this means a lack of pressure in the radiator.
Yes. And that alone might be causing your "problem".

Was that radiator cap actually the pressure cap ??
Sometimes new parts are bad.....or not the right ones.
Most have to be tightened to the SECOND click and that takes some effort.
Could be a leak too.

If the needle never hits the RED, then it really is not overheating.

And maybe I missed it but has there been a time during your ownership that it did NOT act that way; that is, the needle stayed steady no matter what ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I can't ignore the fact that the needle leaves the ideal mark since that causes the ac to loose its cooling effect significantly and thus becomes of no value. Its still blows cool air, but with the body of car getting hot, the cooling effect is of no value.

Yes indeed, it used to, no matter what, remain in the ideal temp mark.

Should I be not able to squeeze the upper hose at all. I can squeeze it about 1/4 the way down. It is hot though so didn't try to squeeze it further.

The radiator cap is brand new and is original model for the car. I can't visibly see any leak. Is there any diagnostic way to to see if there is a leak of coolant or pressure.

Cheers
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Is there any diagnostic way to to see if there is a leak of coolant or pressure.
Yes. They pressurize the system and then see if it holds.

I know that some people have a strong aversion to going to a shop but examples like yours indicate that sometime it really IS best to get professional advice. NOW might be the time for this problem. If you do take it in, tell them EVERYTHING you have done; especially the non-stock fans. It might save everybody a LOT of time and money.

Compare the hose tension to what it feels like when cold.
Hot it should be noticeably more firm.....but not rock hard.

It really sounds to me like your fan is not doing the job.

Do you know anybody who has a really LARGE shop fan ??
If you can eliminate (or substantially change) the problem by forcing more air into the radiator while it is sitting still, that should be a really good clue.

If that is the problem, it could be fan speed or capacity of the blades. In all this work, there weren't any shrouds left off or changed was there ? Sometimes they can be really important too.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top