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Folks,
Generally speaking for those of you who have been around Hyundai vehicles, how is the overall reliability? I note they give a 10yr 100K warranty on the drivetrain. For example, my family has two Mazda's. a 98 & a 2010. Wonderful vehicles, hardly any issues and no major drivetrain problems. Is that the sort of general story with Hyundai? We also have a Ford Focus that is just going to have to get traded, that's why I'm on this and other forums asking around.
Thanks
 

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Great question. I have the same concerns. I bought my Elantra Feb 2017. First week of ownership brake booster was recalled. Took an hour to replace and has been rock solid ever since. I caulked that up to first year vendor and design issues. But when I get to 100k will I have a car ready to go another 100k with minimal issues? I have the 2.0 Nu motor that is multi port, not GDI.

I also have 6 speed auto transmission which seems rock solid. Never read of issues with it.

Around 2011 Hyundai had engines failing and took a while to sort out the cause. Hyundai's explanation seems like some info was not made public. Basically, I don't trust them. It seems like when GDI was introduced into Hyundai engines the problems began. Have they addressed all the potential issues? Not sure.

This thread was very informative on GDI lines up with the problem years:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-20...le-hyundais-gdi-engine-problem-beginning.html
 

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We have owned Hyundai products since 2002 when we bought our first Sonata! Always bought new and kept up with the maintenance as far as oil changes etc. today I drive a Sonata turbo with 55K and my wife a 2014 Santa Fe with 45K miles.

Neigh car has been in for repairs except for recalls. Would buy Hyundai if I ever trade these in.
 

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The best way to find out the overall reliability of a vehicle is to look at the results of surveys and statistical studies. Here you will get anecdotal responses that do not represent the average. I have found Consumer Reports to be a good source of information on reliability of vehicles. It's important to note that within a brand, reliability may vary significantly from one model to the next. In some cases, the vehicle is made by another manufacturer (for example, the Toyota Yaris iA is manufactured by Mazda, the Infiniti QX30 is a reskinned Mercedes).

Some people claim that CR is biased against certain US manufacturers and even allege that they are bought and paid for by asian manufacturers. I know of no more reliable source for vehicle reliability data. If there is one, I'm open to looking at it. BTW they say that Hyundai is one of the more reliable brands overall, and that the most reliable Hyundai Model is currently the Elantra.
 

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Very Reliable

My experience has been that they are very reliable. My wife has had a 2007 Elantra since 2007 and is still driving it today and hasn't had any real issues with it other than expected regular maintenence (brakes, fluid changes, replace battery, tires). I had a 2008 Elantra that I drove for 86,000 miles and never had any issues before I totaled it in an accident. I replaced it with a 2013 Elantra which I am still driving today with over 105,000 miles on it and the only issue I had with it so far was a malfuntioning tire pressure sensor which was fixed at the dealer service department no charge and they gave me a loaner while they did the troubleshooting and repair. Just make sure you keep up with the regular scheduled maintenence and you shouldn't have any problems.
 

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My '08 Santa Fe (base) @ 231,000 gets the most $$$ spent just tires. Had a throttle position sensor problem @ 102K and the replacement part required a CPU flash. Fuel level sensors (in the fuel tank) @ around 130K and the starter at around 160K. Also did my shocks, struts & lower ball joints @ around the 7 year point. Other than that, just maintenance:
Oil (Amsoil 5-30) & filters, tire rotation & brake pad check/replace if needed every 15k (current oil consumption is between an eighth and a quarter of 1qt between chgs)
Trans flush @ 50K then every 100K.
Timing belt every 75K,
Serpentine belt & plugs every 100K.
Just replace water pump, pulleys and thermostat @ 225k w/3rd timing belt.


My 2nd Hyundai was a '13 Sonata (base.) Just oil/filters (as above) & front brake pads (@80K) in 4 years. Poor thing got totaled @ 118,000 miles (got T-boned.) It was perfect. Replaced it with a '17 Sonata Sport. At 12 mo. & 30K... like the '13, It's still perfect.


I don't let my dealer do anything except the CPU flash. As for "anecdotal" yes... I agree. But over the past 40 years I've had cars rated "very poor" by CR and still have had minimal trouble. I'm not a mechanic but I can also do just about anything myself. I believe it all boils down to attention to detail & quality work. Little things like using a torque wrench and looking around for anything showing wear or listening for odd noises form time to time.


At $20K for each one of these cars, I'm going to be hard pressed to go elsewhere.


Good luck with whatever you decide to get!!!
 

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Great question. I have the same concerns. I bought my Elantra Feb 2017.

Around 2011 Hyundai had engines failing and took a while to sort out the cause. Hyundai's explanation seems like some info was not made public. Basically, I don't trust them. It seems like when GDI was introduced into Hyundai engines the problems began. Have they addressed all the potential issues? Not sure.

This thread was very informative on GDI lines up with the problem years:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-20...le-hyundais-gdi-engine-problem-beginning.html
The engine problem is still not solved... There are thousands of defective Elantras from 2012 to 2015, on waiting lists for engine replacement. I meet every week 2, 3 Elantra owners waiting for engine replreplacement, in parking lots at grocery, pharmacy or gas station .. scary! There are between 100 and 200 owners per Hyundai dealer, on waiting lists... this is what those I met told me they have been told by their dealer.

Hyundai managed to keep this quiet... but not sure for how long as news are spreading now because of the long delays waiting lists... some engines died while waiting, they have priority over those still running, but they seem having trouble to keep up with the demand...
 

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"The engine problem is still not solved... There are thousands of defective Elantras from 2012 to 2015, on waiting lists for engine replacement. I meet every week 2, 3 Elantra owners waiting for engine replacement, in parking lots at grocery, pharmacy or gas station .. scary! There are between 100 and 200 owners per Hyundai dealer, on waiting lists... this is what those I met told me they have been told by their dealer."

My dealer is one of the largest in the nation and has done *one* 1.8L engine replacement. They have done dozens of 2.4L engine replacements, only a few that had suffered engine failure, most because of failing the "acoustic test".

Regarding reliability, here's my list:

2002 Elantra GLS 2.0L MPI sedan, ~60K miles
2005 Elantra GT 5dr 2.0L MPI, ~50K miles
2006 Elantra GLS 5dr 2.0L MPI, 144K miles*
2010 Elantra Touring, 2.0L MPI ~45K miles
2010 Tucson Ltd, 2.4L MPI ~60Kmiles
2013 Elantra Coupe, 1.8L MPI ~14K miles**
2014 Elantra GT 2.0L GDI 49K miles and counting
2015 Sonata Sport 2.4L GDI 29K miles and counting
2016 Elantra SE 1.8L MPI 24K miles and counting

Now, before you question why so many Hyundai, they were among a mix of 40+ foreign and domestic vehicles owned over the last 45 years. Not one of them has been unreliable, problematic, or repair prone. And that '14 Elantra GT has had one non maintenance repair since I bought it brand new in January '14. And that repair was after (we think) someone forced the drivers side mirror up in its housing and broke it. Dealer replaced under warranty. None of the others in the list have had anything but maintenance repairs.

* Would still be on the road had it not been crushed in an accident, minor injuries only
** Not unreliable, but not the best workmanship. Poorly fitted carpet, interior bits, etc. And blind spots you could hide a large truck in. Kept it one year and got rid of it before I wrecked it.
 

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I’m ready to get rid of my 14’ Santa Fe GLS with Ultimate package. One thing after another is occurring as I passed 60,000 miles. I have to get a new amplifier that will cost $700+ with labor. My A/C went out and there’s no leak after the technicians put in dye to test /observe a leak. I was told it might not be covered under warranty. I’m just tired of this car and ready to move on.
 

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My experience...

has been good...I had a '90 Excel GLS (New) that went thru 3 exhaust systems in 6 yrs (Hyundai picked-up the tab for 2 complete sys.)
I have the Sonata (for 6 mons. now) with 146k miles, which I got from a local private party...it rides like new and gets better than 40mpg on the hwy.
Hyundai just installed a strut spring for gratis...as a "good will" gesture on the car (possibly because of the air bag recall pending...hard to say).

Count me impressed! :auto:
 

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It is interesting the contrast in experience between andrea 2012 and flemmons. Just a thought, could be the more extreme cold in Canada be part of the the problem? This winter was especially cold. I am thinking fuel dilution could be part of the problem. Gas does not lubricate as well as oil.

I have read a Kia Tech post the Nu engine as "crazy reliable". Not sure of his location.

There have been reports for heater 2017+ Elantra being slow to heat up when very cold. Maybe the Elantra was not tested enough in very cold environments since that is where the weak links are showing up?
 

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Subzero cold starts, fuel dilution and short run cycles are yuge factors in motor oil degradation. Rich cold petrol washes away oil on cylinders. Cold thick oil gets bypassed at filter. Thick oil is slow to provide that film strength. The only time there is metal to metal contact is a cold start. Piston clearances are at worst when cold, blow gaso line dilutes, contaminate crankcase oil. Water condense out of air inside crankcase when the air is warmed a bit but metal masses are still cold. Exactly the same way a cold ceer can drips water out of the fridge. Wate condensation must be heated to beyond 100 for extended time to boil away. Otherwise it is emulsified in the oil and depletes protective additives and form corrosive acods. Water is heavier tha oil so droplets sink to bottom and do that often - no high tech synoil will save the engine.
The 5% people here that know this already are not the problem. It's the othe 95%. ?
 
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