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Discussion Starter #1
I did my first oil change, the oil filter was a pain in the butt to get loose, went to pepboy, oreiley, autozone and non of they have the right tool. Hyundai dealership where i bought the car didn't sell a tool to remove filter. I ended up using a pipe wrench crush the filter and unscrew it.

Anyone eslse has trouble removing the filter, what tool did you use?
 

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When did u replace your oil? I just bought my Sonata and the sales woman emphasised twice that I need to change it every 3 months or 3,000 miles (the old fashioned standard), but I know most modern cars it is less frequent. I looked through the manual and it says the change the oil every 7,500 miles/12 months under normal use and 3,750miles/6 months under severe use....
 

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i haven't done an oil change to my sonata yet but one thing that always works for me is a screwdriver. punch it right through the sides and it gives a nice handle. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
3750 mile for conventional oil and 7500 for group 3 synthetic oil with mobile 1 or wix filter, thats the rule i follow. Don't get fram filter they will fail when you least expect it.

I don't want to make a mess by poking a hole with screwdriver, oil slick on the drive way means an hour cleaning with castrol concrete cleaner.
 

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IF you put it on correctly you wont need a tool ever again. Getting the first one off from the factory tends to be a chore. I used a strap wrench to get mine off.

And yeah, the Hyundai Warranty booklet says 7500/12 months for normal and 3750/6 months for severe. So determine what section you are in and dont listen to what that lady said she is beyond wrong and raiding your pocketbook.
 

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Well, I can't be sure but on my 2008 and 2009 engines I finally got one of the multi-fit filter removal tools that came from Wal-Mart if I recollect correctly. I don't know if this engine is significantly different from the older engine but I found that if I went to the NAPA store and bought the filter and oil and an oil filter wrench that fit over the filter it was an in and out operation.

I've changed many an oil filter in my life and the worst was on my '91 Ranger V6 where it was nearly impossible to get any kind of wrench on it. I resorted to the screwdriver through the filter to finally get it loose but that was a very messy job and as anyone knows getting oil over your hands makes it doubly difficult be cause you can't grip the filter.

I would consider taking off the shroud on the bottom of the engine to gain access. It will take a little longer and then you can use one of the univeral filter removal "strap" arrangements that simply wraps around the filter bottom and you put an extension on it to tighten it up and it will come off. These type of filter strap removal tools should be available at most any auto parts store.

I have a question though. How the heck does the Hyundia oil change guy get the filter off? That sounds screwey to me.

Note: The dimensions of the Hyundai filter and the aftermarket filters like the Wix filters at NAPA are different. That's why I had to use the multi-fit arrangement that has about six filter sizes to finally get one to get the stock filter off. That is a pain the rear end. The aftermarket filter is much easier to remove. Otherwise let the Hyundai dealer change the oil and filter like I do on Wednesday when the special price of $19.95 is in effect. That's the easiest of all remedies.
 

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the initial filter change was a pain because it was so tight I had to remove the plastic cover to get any kinda leverage on it. But once it was removed the rest will be easy. dont put it on so tight and a standard socket style filter wrench will be able to remove it easily without removing the plastic cover. I bought the Mobil1 filter and my old filter wrench fits it perfectly. It's a little fatter than the stock filter. should be cake from here on out.
 

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After my engine is broken in I intend to install a Canton non-bypass racing filter. These are canister style filters that take a 22mm wrench or thereabout on the end cap, and the internal element comes out for the change.

Speaking of which, anybody know what the thread size is on the stock filter?


Canton "Billet" filter canister... the end cap at the bottom ("top" in this picture) unscrews as described above:


these filter down to 8 microns (typical oil filters do 10-20microns and have bypass valves that allow for ZERO filtering under high-pressure situations such as cold start up, etc.) These have no bypass valves; they filter all the oil all the time, and filter it very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Sep 21 2010, 09:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357926
After my engine is broken in I intend to install a Canton non-bypass racing filter. These are canister style filters that take a 22mm wrench or thereabout on the end cap, and the internal element comes out for the change.

Speaking of which, anybody know what the thread size is on the stock filter?


Canton "Billet" filter canister... the end cap at the bottom ("top" in this picture) unscrews as described above:


these filter down to 8 microns (typical oil filters do 10-20microns and have bypass valves that allow for ZERO filtering under high-pressure situations such as cold start up, etc.) These have no bypass valves; they filter all the oil all the time, and filter it very well.
How much does that kit cost? What's the oil change period for this high end filter? Its probably out of my budget.
 

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QUOTE (dh431218 @ Sep 22 2010, 12:08 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357927
How much does that kit cost? What's the oil change period for this high end filter? Its probably out of my budget.

About $100 for the billet housing with one filter element, and the filter lasts 10,000 miles. New elements are about $8. I use royal purple full synthetic oil in my cars and change it at 10,000 miles so it works out with the Canton filter. Royal Purple recommends changing at 12,000 miles but I cut it down to 10k to give myself some cushion and margin of safety, especially when i get close to the mileage limit but dont have time to do the change. On the new sonata i will probably stick to the manufacturer's oil change interval since my dealer is throwing in free services for 5years or 50k miles with the car purchase. They are also extending the bumper to bumper to 10years/100k, which is awfully nice of them as well... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Sep 21 2010, 10:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357928
About $100 for the billet housing with one filter element, and the filter lasts 10,000 miles. New elements are about $8. I use royal purple full synthetic oil in my cars and change it at 10,000 miles so it works out with the Canton filter. Royal Purple recommends changing at 12,000 miles but I cut it down to 10k to give myself some cushion and margin of safety, especially when i get close to the mileage limit but dont have time to do the change. On the new sonata i will probably stick to the manufacturer's oil change interval since my dealer is throwing in free services for 5years or 50k miles with the car purchase. They are also extending the bumper to bumper to 10years/100k, which is awfully nice of them as well... ;)
This kit seems like a good fit for corvette, Viper, 911 and GT-R, I figured you weren't going to put it on a Sonata. I also see clearance as a major issue, not many sports car have such oil filter clearance.
 

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QUOTE (Bearcats @ Sep 21 2010, 11:22 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357889
IF you put it on correctly you wont need a tool ever again. Getting the first one off from the factory tends to be a chore. I used a strap wrench to get mine off.
Yup, it was a pain in the **** the first time but as long as you hand tightened it, it should be easy to take off in the future.
 

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I had my first oil change at the dealer. They did it for free. I watched it being performed and the technician removed and installed the filter by hand. It was fast and no tools. I still have 3 more free changes left. I had 3930 miles on the engine.
 

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Hey RobSpeedGLS,
Canton Racing Products is my family's(by marriage) business. I find it so cool :thumbsup: when I see customers from so far away. Those kits are cool. I had one on my Scion TC and one on my Camry.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
QUOTE (BlackSE31384 @ Sep 22 2010, 08:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=358148
Hey RobSpeedGLS,
Canton Racing Products is my family's(by marriage) business. I find it so cool :thumbsup: when I see customers from so far away. Those kits are cool. I had one on my Scion TC and one on my Camry.
Then tell us about your family's product. Does canton make a oil filters housing with fins that has a secondary job of air cooling the oil while it is being filtered? :)
 

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QUOTE (dh431218 @ Sep 22 2010, 12:28 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357930
This kit seems like a good fit for corvette, Viper, 911 and GT-R, I figured you weren't going to put it on a Sonata. I also see clearance as a major issue, not many sports car have such oil filter clearance.

That picture is just an example. The one I have on my BMW is the same size as the stock filter, and fits in the same location with no issues. On the sonata, that canister length (in the above picture) would probably prove too long. And yes they make them with "ridges" anyway, not necesarily fins. There are clamp-on fins that would work with the smooth type they sell, like the one pictured above.


Canton has all kinds of oil system stuff, including the piping and whatnot for external oil coolers, remote oil filters, accusump pre-oilers, etc.

here is the link to their spin-on filter line:

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bi...p;category=2501

as for the viper/vette/etc thing, an engine is an engine. street cars can experience the same wear as a race motor, it just happens over a lot longer period. I tend to always treat my cars like I am going to drive them forever (200-300k) and try to take as good care of them as I can. My BMW has about 200k on it now and it would probably go to 300k with proper care.
 

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I just remove the plastic cover for an oil change.
Much easier, no mess, plus I get to inspect under the car.
 
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