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Discussion Starter #41
Ford Triton 5.4L 3-valve engines had BIG problems with that issue. Tensioner gaskets would blow out causing oil pressure loss to the heads.
I just stopped early this morning by my parent's house to start my mom's 2017 Santa Fe SE and see if her engine still makes the noise after it hasn't been started since Saturday, and sure enough, it does. The only difference is that it doesn't do it as loud as my wife's 2017 Santa Fe used to do it. Interestingly enough that what worked for my wife's car didn't work for my mother's. One last thing I could try would be to reset the ECU or have the dealer reset it.

BITOG has a few ongoing "memes", one of which is modern 5W-30 "shears down" to 20 weight. According to some members of that forum, everybody ought to just run 10W-40 instead. Meanwhile Toyota runs 0W-16.

If one really wants to know, perform a UOA. If a thicker oil makes one feel better, as long as it doesn't void any warranty (get it in writing), go for it...
There are a bunch of UOAs that support that, however, it only happens with a few oils, and all of those oils are ILSAC GF5 or GF6A. Here is one example: 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe Valvoline Advanced 5w30 11,200 unit / 3800 OCI

That's a 5W-30 that after 3800 miles barely qualifies as a 5W-20. I had something similar happen with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Pennzoil is the Budweiser of oils though...

I don't advocate the use of thick oils, and I don't think anyone should use 10W-40 in any passenger vehicle or gasoline engine. The 0W-40 I picked shears down to a 0W-30/5W-30 really fast and stays there. The Lambda II 3.3L engine is an old design, and it was actually designed with a thicker oil in mind. That's why the Owner's Manual allows for 5W-40 in the Santa FE. Also, other than North America, Hyundai does not recommend 5W-20 for any of their engines anywhere else in the world. Toyota is the same way. Just look at a recent 4Runner manual, and you'll se a big asterisk next to 0W-20. So in the US you have to use 0W-20, but if you live in Puerto Rico you can use anything up to 15W-40 in their engines. The EPA is up the car manufacturer's rear ends, so they have to comply. Of course, everyone should use what they like/feel comfortable with. Picking an oil that you like won't void your warranty unless that oil is the cause for your engine problems. So no, no one should use Castrol 20W-50 with two quarts of Lucas in it in a Canadian winter, which will cause some issues.
 

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5W-20 is "recommended" for the 3.5L in my 2012 per the oil cap. I'll have take a gander at what's shown in the owners' manual. If I can use something a bit thicker I will, but I will be keeping the oil changed frequently to keep the sludge from building up in the timing chain tensioners and VVT components. I was watching a Youtube video where a 2011 (or 2010) Santa Fe 3.5 was getting all new chains, guides, tensioners, sprockets, etc. at 100,000 miles and the sludge in the engine was pretty bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
5W-20 is "recommended" for the 3.5L in my 2012 per the oil cap. I'll have take a gander at what's shown in the owners' manual. If I can use something a bit thicker I will, but I will be keeping the oil changed frequently to keep the sludge from building up in the timing chain tensioners and VVT components. I was watching a Youtube video where a 2011 (or 2010) Santa Fe 3.5 was getting all new chains, guides, tensioners, sprockets, etc. at 100,000 miles and the sludge in the engine was pretty bad.
I'm sending this from my phone right now, but if you look up the international manual for your Santa Fe, you'll see that you can run anything up to 5W-40 in that engine. The Mobil 1 0W-40 is basically an old school 5W-30 for all intents and purposes, very rich in additives and detergents with a 12.5 TBN. I also run in my 5.7 HEMI with great results. If you can afford if, Redline 5W-30 is pretty **** awesome. Skip Amsoil, their engine oils are overpriced for what they offer. And avoid Shitoil... Err... Pennzoil, unless you like brown varnish in your engine or your oil to sheer down to nothing. I hope this helps.

Big lol on this one... Three of our vehicles had brown sludge... varnish from Pennzoil dealer oil changes:

 

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I'm running Mobil 1 5W-20 now. I may change up to 30 or 40. I changed over the transfer case and rear diff to Mobil 1 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
If for whatever reason you're scared of 0W-40, Mobil 1 has 5W-30 ESP. It's **** good oil. The other 5W-30 and 5W-20 ILSAC oils that Mobil 1 sells are watery thin, just like everyone else's. Another alternative is Castrol 5W-30 European Formula, it's API SL rated and available at Walmart for about $22 for 5 quarts. It's a nice thick 5W-30. I run Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in our Santa Fe Sport with the crappy 2.4L GDI four banger and it's running buttery smooth. You have an MPI engine, so you can run just about anything in it. The rating on the oil cap doesn't mean much. Ten years ago I have a Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6, and I used to run Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20 in it, religiously changing it at 7500 miles. The oil was turning black pretty quick after every change, and I thought it was a good thing, but it wasn't. You may read that oil that turns black so fast does it's job, but it actually means that the base stock and additive package are crap. Anyway, at around 35,000 that engine developed a lifter tick that went up and down with RPM. The dealership kept giving me the run-around so I got rid of it. I learned two things after that: 1) do my research when I pick an oil for my vehicle, and 2) do 5000 mile OCIs no matter what. You got a good engine there, treat it right. Put a good European ACEA A3 Oil in it and it'll be happy and buttery smooth.
 

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The rating on the oil cap doesn't mean much.

You may read that oil that turns black so fast does it's job, but it actually means that the base stock and additive package are crap.


Guys-There is so much misinformation in the above post-it's hard to know to start. Just a reminder-the engineers who design your vehicle are the ones who spec the oil on the cap-not "Internet lore" or the non-sense over on BITOG. In addition-oil changing color IS NOT INDICATIVE of whether or not it's doing it's job-there is plenty of info available on this-with a google search.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The rating on the oil cap doesn't mean much.

You may read that oil that turns black so fast does it's job, but it actually means that the base stock and additive package are crap.


Guys-There is so much misinformation in the above post-it's hard to know to start. Just a reminder-the engineers who design your vehicle are the ones who spec the oil on the cap-not "Internet lore" or the non-sense over on BITOG. In addition-oil changing color IS NOT INDICATIVE of whether or not it's doing it's job-there is plenty of info available on this-with a google search.
To say that engineers spec the oil on the oil filler cap is factually incorect. The engineers do however put a chart in the owner's manual that shows different oil viscosities and in what ambient temperatures they should be used and under what engine load conditions. It usually happens in countries where the government doesn't control what oil should be specked for your engine regardless of what it actually needs. Hyundai for example got around this government mandate by specking 5W-20 on the filler cap (mostly on crappy 4 cylinder engines) and then they've sent out TBNs to their dealers asking them to use 5W-30 in those engines. But I digress.

We're still a long way off from having properly designed engines with polymer coated bearings and cams and valves made from properly hardened steel that will allow us to effectively run 0W-16 and 0W-20 without negative impact on engine longevity and long term reliability. Everyone should make an informed decision about what they put in their engine, and if they don't care, then that's their problem. I'm paying for my own vehicles and nobody else's. I can't afford to go out every three-to-five years and buy a new vehicle. Mine need to last around fifteen years before they get replaced.

As an interesting side node, I'm running a full SAPS 0W-40 in my 2016 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI, and engine for which 5W-20 was specked. If you even hint at running a different oil in that engine on a forum, the Lube Police will come out immediately and start preaching to you from the book of HEMI MDS. My 5.7 HEMI loves that oil, fuel mileage is great and the engine is quiet. I get 20 to 21 Highway and 15 in the city. MDS works great, but most of the time I disable it.

If you carefully read a Hyundai owners manual, you will quickly realize that a couple of liberal arts students wrote the oil specification section of that book. It says that you should use an API SN or current API specification oil, ACEA A5 or higher, it if you don't have ACEA A5 oil then use ACEA A3 oil. If you don't have access to API SN oil, then API SN is fine, but if you don't have that either, then API SL will do. So what Hyundai is effectively telling you is that you can use anything from a low SAPS oil to mid SAPS to full SAPS if you want to. And you're worried about what the filler cap says? Have you seen how thick a 5W-30 API SL oil is? What about where Hyundai tells you that's okay to use 20W-50 in the 2.0 Turbo engine? That's an oil viscosity that no one should use in the 21st century anymore in a vehicle, not unless they're at the race track and the only thing they could afford was Castrol 20W-50. That oil is so thick that's not even funny.

You have over 5000 posts on BITOG, so you spend a lot of time on a forum that you have a very low opinion. What's wrong with you?!

You don't seem so dumb that you don't understand what I'm actually telling you here. So the question boils down to this: who do you really work for? Because you sure sound like an f-ing corporate shill that's either doing damage control or is trying to influence public opinion. Please, do tell, I'd love to know!
 
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