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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there can i ask my questions about my car here or am i in the wrong place?

Hyundai excel 1996 ignition problem;

About 3days ago i stopped to shop and turned the ignition off and when i came back it didnt start anymore no crank of ignition or other sounds only the lights on the dashboard lights up further nothing happens.

Before this problem the car worked fine only the indicator in the dashboard of the temperature didnt move never always stays down on 0° even after long driving.

Battery is good(checked)
Start engine is good(checked)
Fuses are good(checked)
Relais are good(checked)

The moment the problem started i was on the highway a quick mecanic checked a lot of things nothing worked....

At last this mecanic gave me a peace of wire about 2m long en plugged it in the starting engine en the other side a second on the red + of the battery and at last the engine starts within seconds...

Now i start with the wire but everytime i have to open the hood to start the car.
And its very dangerous within de engine

How can i solve this problem?
Garages and mecanics are for this more than 20jr old car to expensive so i hope someone can help me with my problem.
So i can fix it by myself of possible.

Thanx for comments and solutions
 

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Hi there can i ask my questions about my car here or am i in the wrong place?
I'm sure it'll be OK to ask here, but i think your car was actually more commonly known as the X3 Accent. That's was it was sold as here in the UK anyway.

passie said:
Now i start with the wire but everytime i have to open the hood to start the car. And its very dangerous within de engine

How can i solve this problem?
We need to try and figure out what the problem is exactly before we can decide how best to fix it. Unfortunately, your mechanic has made that more difficult for us by adding that wire. To diagnose the problem you will need to disconnect the mechanic's wire from the starter motor and refit the original wire that's part of the car's engine wiring loom.

So, the first thing I'd suggest you do is get a voltmeter or 12V test lamp and check the voltages on the START relay socket which is located on a relay carrier behind the dashboard on the driver's side....see below.

Remove the relay and hold the ignition key in the START position. Now probe each of the four terminals of the relay socket and you should have two showing 12V. If the voltages check out OK you could try a relay bypass by linking the two upper terminals of the relay socket with a short link wire (make sure your gearbox is in park/neutral). See if the engine will crank with the relay bypassed. Remember, you'll need to have the original starter control wire reconnected though.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The wire the mecanic gave me is not connected or something just a loose item i have to take it away asap after the engine starts and i put it inside the car till next start than i grab it and unlock the hood, step outside the car and open the hood connect the wire from the guy in 3sec. En disconnect asap it starts and close the hood step in and drive...

Tomorrow morning i have the time to look for the relais behind the dashboard like you discribed.do i have to take some parts or the whole dashboard loose for this?

Today i put out the ignition key holder...
Starting with a screw driver didnt works!!
Someone told me to test it but no result.

Is it possible that other options like radio etc. don't work because of the problem?
 

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The wire the mecanic gave me is not connected or something just a loose item i have to take it away asap after the engine starts and i put it inside the car till next start than i grab it and unlock the hood, step outside the car and open the hood connect the wire from the guy in 3sec.
Sorry, I don't understand what you are connecting the wire to?
I get that you connect one end of the wire to the battery + terminal, but where does the other end connect?

passie said:
do i have to take some parts or the whole dashboard loose for this?
It will make testing simpler if you remove the dash trim below the steering column.
There should be two plastic caps at the top corners of the trim. Pry those off any you should find 10mm bolts behind them.
Remove those 10mm bolts and the other two 10mm bolts from the bottom of the trim. With the bolts removed the trim should just pull off.
 

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Sorry, I don't understand what you are connecting the wire to?
I get that you connect one end of the wire to the battery + terminal, but where does the other end connect?
It goes to the starter solenoid.
OP said it goes to the starting engine and then to (+) of the battery
Starting engine being the starter
He is using a wire near 2 meters long to start the engine

The problem sounds like when he turns the key to crank the engine,
there is no 12 volts going to starter solenoid.
Cause could be open wire, faulty relay, faulty starter switch, faulty park/neutral safety switch
 

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It goes to the starter solenoid.
That was my initial assumption but why would you completely disconnect the wire after every start if that was the case?

avisitor said:
The problem sounds like when he turns the key to crank the engine,
there is no 12 volts going to starter solenoid.
Cause could be open wire, faulty relay, faulty starter switch, faulty park/neutral safety switch
Ye think? :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Think i found the problem the relay you discribed i found it after 50min it is behind the controller unit of the lights (up and down)i take that compartment out and it is visible with a flaslight. I put all the things unther the steer away but didnt find it...after a long search i put the light controller unit out the compartment and found it at last.thanx for that first!!

I have taken the relay out of the socket and tested if a small wire worked for starting the engine and it did finally.

Now i can start it without opening the hood every time i stop the engine pfff...

I looked for another relay but i have to order from the internet and have it in 2days so i have to wait a few days

I have some pics of the wire to answer the question where i put it beside battery hope its a bit clearly for you.

Can i otherwise put the little wire in it and let it stay in the socket with something for a few days till i have another one.

And final question is it really the relay that gives the problem?the radio still not works
 

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I have taken the relay out of the socket and tested if a small wire worked for starting the engine and it did finally.
OK, so we know the relay load circuit is working.

passie said:
I looked for another relay but i have to order from the internet and have it in 2days so i have to wait a few days
Well, we don't actually know that the relay is faulty yet. We still need to check the relay control circuit.

So we know from the bypass test that the circuit on the upper 2 terminals of the relay is OK. Now we need to look at the bottom 2 terminals. Did you check the voltages on the 4 terminals as I suggested earlier? One of the bottom 2 terminals should show 12V when the key is held in the START position. Have you confirmed that is correct?

Assuming that is correct, you next need to connect your voltmeter/test light across the bottom 2 terminals. Now turn the key back to the START position and see if you get 12V again. If you do, that means the relay is faulty. If you don't get 12V, the starter inhibitor switch or it's wiring is faulty. Where the inhibitor switch is depends on whether you have an auto or manual gearbox?

passie said:
I have some pics of the wire to answer the question where i put it beside battery hope its a bit clearly for you.
Yeah, I see what's going on now. The mechanic just stuffed the wire into the back of the original terminal rather than crimp a new connector onto the wire. Well, that's mechanics for you :smile:

passiethe said:
radio still not works
Well deal with that once we get the starting issue sorted.
 
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