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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I was hoping to see if anyone could assist me with an issue on the OBD-II on my Hyundai.

I have a 2010 Canadian Version of the Hyundai Elantra GL Touring, when I plug my OBD-II reader in, it doesn't power on.

I was hoping someone could enlighten me on how to fix this issue.

I know others were able to swap the fuse associated with the OBD-II but I'm not sure which fuse it would be.

Thanks in advance for any assistance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Car runs well, just had a check engine light come on that disappeared shortly that I wanted to get checked out.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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I know others were able to swap the fuse associated with the OBD-II but I'm not sure which fuse it would be.
I think the DLC is powered by the ROOM LP fuse. Are the interior and trunk lights working? If not, that's probably the fuse your looking for. It's usually on the dash fusebox, mounted in a yellow carrier.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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I think the DLC is powered by the ROOM LP fuse. Are the interior and trunk lights working? If not, that's probably the fuse your looking for. It's usually on the dash fusebox, mounted in a yellow carrier.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Both lights still work
 

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2016 Elantra GT and 2011 Elantra Touring
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I had a similar problem, I simply tapped into a 12V fuse and ran a small wire into the back of the OBD II socket and to the 12V pin. I don't know why I needed to do this but it worked.
 

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Both lights still work
In that case, the power supply to the connector might not be the problem. I would use a voltmeter to check both the power supply and grounds. One or the other must be missing if the scan tool doesn't power up.

I've attached a pinout of the DLC below. Connect the black voltmeter probe to a good ground (clean metal part of the car body) and touch the red probe to terminal 16 of the DLC. You should get 12V. If that checks out touch the red probe to 16 and touch the black to terminal 4 then terminal 5. You should get 12V on both. That quick test should tell you whether it's the power supply that is missing, or the ground.

BTW, if your meter probes are too thick to reach into the terminals in the connector use a straightened out paper clip or a sewing needle to touch the terminals, then touch your meter probe to the needle. Don't force your probes into the connector. That could just cause more problems.


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 
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